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You talking about screwing it in? Not sure it is short enough to fall out the back. Better to center punch it and drill it. Maybe if you drill it .201(for 1/4-20), you might be able to heat, chip the broken pieces out and salvage the threads? If not, then see if the thread insert will fit?
Maybe get grade 8, they might not rust as fast, but if you get clean coolant I doubt the time you have it you would have any more issues anyway.
If it is flush there is only 1/2 inch of thread that would need to be screwed in, compared to the longer length of thick corrosion I have to deal with screwing it out. Again, just an idea. I have no clue what is back there, or if you can reach the stud if it was on the inside.
You talking about screwing it in? Not sure it is short enough to fall out the back. Better to center punch it and drill it. Maybe if you drill it .201(for 1/4-20), you might be able to heat, chip the broken pieces out and salvage the threads? If not, then see if the thread insert will fit?
Maybe get grade 8, they might not rust as fast, but if you get clean coolant I doubt the time you have it you would have any more issues anyway.
I traded the truck to my mom for the Bronco, so it will only get once a year maintenance. Aside from that it will be parked for months feet from the Chattahoochee river, When out it will sit in bumper to bumper traffic or be flying around on mountain roads. I have to make sure it survives all this. That is why I am trying to do everything to the highest level.
I have had luck with left handed drill bits. The heat from drilling often frees up a broken fastener and then the correct rotation just spins em out. start small and slow and work your way up. Sometimes the first bit gets the job done. Hope it works, broken fasteners are a PITA!
Last edited by jrodimus; Jun 13, 2018 at 03:12 PM.
Reason: spelling
Ahh, the memories. I broke so many bolts doing the water pump I ended up with a new timing cover and lower plenum. Actually it was a friend who broke the thermostat housing bolts, but I, who wallered out the hole trying to drill one out. and then it sat for months unfinished because no matter what or how hard I tried, the single broken lower plenum to cylinder head bolt just WOULD NOT be drilled out. Not until it was over 95 degrees out and no shade to be found. Then it came right out haha.
I was going to recommend a time-sert if you can't get that bolt out. It's like what's pictured above though. I say come back to it in a few hours or a day with the left handed bit, or even a regular. nice and small. nice and centered. Be careful, go slow. Lubricate. Work your way up in size. If you only broke the one, I bet it isn't as corroded as you think. you might try an automatic center punch to get you started in the right spot. or even a hammer and awl to give you a little indent to start in, if there's room.
It is flush. Not even one thread exposed. Also, some of it broke when I tried using my extractor. Judging by the amount of rust I had to clean off of the stud inside the timing cover this thing is not going to move. When I was taking the water pump out the stud just slid out. I recently had a new A/C system installed, and the resulting work left me questioning the competency of the mechanic. I am wondering if it broke off while he was hanging the A/C bracket from it.
You can hold a nut flush to the hole with the clamps from the welder and weld through the center of the nut. You want to use MIG for this if you can. It can be done. And the heat does break up whatever is holding it on. Although be careful not to weld the nut to the block, but even if you do it can the cut off and ground. Not a big deal.
Originally Posted by jrodimus
I have had luck with left handed drill bits. The heat from drilling often frees up a broken fastener and then the correct rotation just spins em out. start small and slow and work your way up. Sometimes the first bit gets the job done. Hope it works, broken fasteners are a PITA!
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