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Suggest a radiator?

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Old 06-10-2018, 06:27 PM
Maillemaker
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Suggest a radiator?

I'm having overheating in my 1990 Winnebago Warrior build on an E350.
I can see crusty sediment deposits around the tubes in the radiator.

Can anyone recommend a good aftermarket replacement?

Is this one good?

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...hTerm=radiator

Steve
 
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Old 06-10-2018, 06:54 PM
NICKSAN
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When I needed a radiator for my 94 club wagon I could not find a good quality one so I went with Spectra brand. Its been several years with no problems yet. I think I got it at pep-boys
Thats the problem with older vehicles, unless you get a custom one built, Theres only going to be cheap ones available, they might last 4 to 6 years or longer, but thats just that way it is.
 
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Old 06-10-2018, 08:29 PM
quickieR
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Have had a radiator from Advance in our 1993 E150 wheelchair conversion van for about 6 months with no issues. Hope this helps.
 
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Old 06-10-2018, 08:39 PM
Maillemaker
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My concern with the Advance link above is that it says the original radiator was 4-rowand this is 3-row. This is an RV so cooling capacity is a must. A replacement has to be as good or better than original.

Steve
 
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Old 06-10-2018, 08:47 PM
Maillemaker
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One strange thing about my factory radiator. The bypass hoses that come from the intake manifold and water pump - they route to the heater core. There are tees in these lines that go back to a heater core in the RV cabin, and to the water heater (engine heats cabin water heater also).

There is one other tee in these bypass lines that goes, via hardline, down to the bottom of the radiator. This is not one of the two transmission cooling lines. This is a separate port. I don't see this on aftermarket radiators.

What is this bypass line for?



Here is what the inside of my radiator looks like:


Here is the tee off of one of the bypass lins:



Here is where it terminates at the bottom of the radiator, next to the petcock:



What is this coolant line for?

The line itself has permanently-crimped rubber ends, with a metal middle section that runs it down behind the alternator going from the heater core region down to the bottom of the radiator.

Steve
 
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Old 06-10-2018, 08:49 PM
N1265
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I went with the spectra CU1333 from Auto Zone, in a 1990 Club Wagon . It is aluminum and plastic for $159. Fits my needs and budget.
 
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Old 06-11-2018, 10:37 AM
quickieR
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If you want to be sure take a look at griffinrad.com and give them a call.
 
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Old 06-11-2018, 12:08 PM
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Champion, AE IIRR correctly are all Chinese made.......now I’m not going to say just because it's Chinese made its junk...it’s not, but there are a lot of issues with them........example...Assuming all of the seam are properly welded (they have their moments when pre-mature failure- pinholes- occur), cooling is more than the number of tubes or material, its number of fins versus number & size of tubes....i.e. rate of flow and the amount of heat that can be exchanged in a specific amount of time.......many times these units are cheaper because they do not have an adequate number of fins......Quality of welds........typically poor and pinholes start showing at the 5-8 year mark...………...Corrosion (internal).....almost all American radiators (aluminum) have or have as an option (and usually recommend if not already permanently installed) an anode- basically acts as a sacrificial lamb for electrolysis based corrosion (very, very predominant with aluminum radiators, water pumps) and helps keep the ph level neutral. Without this, I have seen a host of promulgated failures including radiator, hoses, water pumps, head gaskets, thermostat covers- where the material is literally eaten away because of electrolysis.
I have always purchased from US Radiator, but when the radiator plastic part began failing on my wifes 97 Cougar Sport (which lasted 17 years with an anode), called them and it's too new of a car and they recommended:Radiator Expresswww.radiatorexpress.comIrvine, CA866-723-3977
I was very pleased with the product, it was built exactly to the oem specs. What I liked about this place is when I spoke to their support staff, the person I spoke with had definitely experienced getting their hands dirty on a car.......when I asked questions, I got answers....no hesitation. Whit I also liked is they track installation issues that both mechanics & customers have so when you place your order, they order the brand/mfg that has the least amount of reported issues.
 
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Old 06-11-2018, 07:52 PM
Maillemaker
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I got my radiator out tonight. Here it is:



The problem is the little port next to the drain valve. This is a coolant line from the bypass line coming out of the manifold. Evidently this is designed to provide some coolant flow through the radiator before the thermostat opens up. To what purpose, I am not sure. Someone suggested it was to pre-heat the transmission fluid before the engine warms up. I wonder if it is in fact to provide cooling for the transmission fluid before the engine heats up.

Anyway, I'm going to try a radiator shop here in town and see if they can rebuild the radiator.

Steve
 
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Old 06-11-2018, 10:12 PM
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When my father had his shop in the 70's we always took the radiators to a radiator shop and had them rebuilt. They will dissemble them, vat them, rod out the core, and re solder it all back together. The older radiators were brass/copper and you don't have to worry about the plastic tanks cracking. i don't know why people don't go that rout these days. I took mine out of my 88 van and the shop rodded it out and vatted it for $100. So I still have my original...
here is an example

 
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Old 06-11-2018, 10:16 PM
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My dad had a shop in the 70's and he always took the radiators to a radiator shop to rebuild them. I don't know why people don't do it much these days! That's what I did with my 88 radiator and it has been just fine since.. $100.. And I still have my copper/brass original.
Example
 
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Old 06-12-2018, 04:45 AM
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Lots of high quality radiators available in the world of race cars. (Local racing: you definitely have them nearby)

you can get nearly any size you want with outlets anywhere you want. And it will be extremely high quality and tremendous cooling capacity.

The only thing youll lose is transmission cooler, but you can do the air type cooler for that.

Try Racecar Engineering or Jegs or Summit.
 
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Old 06-12-2018, 02:16 PM
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Well I did some searching and the only one I could come up with was the one you linked to at Advance.There may be one more but I am not sure it is the correct one.
Advance is calling it a Craquest brand.. Rock Auto lists it as ADPI (Automotive Parts Distribution International)
Advance specs say it is a 3 row core... ADPI lists it as a 4 row core but when you click on the part number it comes back as a 3 row core. 8011291

I didnt see where you posted what engine you have but the only radiator that seems to match would be for a 460/7.5L engine...
The port you are calling a heater bypass is called sensor port on most of the radiator sites. That radiator comes with or without a sensor port. Some cay "comes with sensor". So in your case they are not using the a sensor in the pore, but are using the port.

Where is the radiator made or come from? If you look at the ADPI , carquest, ect, they all look about the same as this one
Not positive this is the one with the port..
Radiator,Number5UA8005UA
 
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Old 06-12-2018, 05:20 PM
Maillemaker
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It's a 460 engine. Motorhome. I did not find any with the sensor port. Did you find one?

I ordered the Advance Auto one. I took my old one into a shop today and they recommended just buying a new one since they are only about $200. I'm concerned that they say 3 row but they say they replace OEM 4-row. I asked online chat from Advance and they said the unit was made of aluminum, but I am not sure.

If I can't get one with a port, I will just put a tee where the drain valve goes and then put the drain valve in the tee and also the connection to the bypass hose.

Steve
 
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Old 06-12-2018, 06:15 PM
Beechkid
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Originally Posted by Maillemaker View Post
I ordered the Advance Auto one. I'm concerned that they say 3 row but they say they replace OEM 4-row. I asked online chat from Advance and they said the unit was made of aluminum, but I am not sure

Steve
I wish you the best of luck with that one for a couple of reasons.... it's Chinese mfg..... and secondly, AA1, well, they are probably just reading a script..... still wish you the best of luck and don't forget the anode.
 
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