Overheating v10
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,576
Likes: 41
From: Wyoming
Remove thermostat and run without one, and see if lower warms up....it should eventually.
the cool lower implies a blockage, running heater to cool implies pump is ok if heat is actually making it to cab.
I suspect failure of new thermostat or water pump.
elevating front speeds purging, the full line on coolant fill container is the high point of system. Eventually the air will purge itself if pump is good.
just make sure both controls for rear heat are on heat setting. Along with front heat on to purge all air.
the cool lower implies a blockage, running heater to cool implies pump is ok if heat is actually making it to cab.
I suspect failure of new thermostat or water pump.
elevating front speeds purging, the full line on coolant fill container is the high point of system. Eventually the air will purge itself if pump is good.
just make sure both controls for rear heat are on heat setting. Along with front heat on to purge all air.
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New User
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
I have bled the system two more times and the truck is still overheating. Lower radiator hose is still cold even after replacing radiator. plugged it into a scanner yesterday and per the computer, the temperature fluctuated between 213 and 231° Yet the gauge on the cluster remained close to redline unless I turned the heat on which will then control the gauge, but the temperature barely fluctuated. The coolant in the reservoir also was lukewarm and never spilled over. could it be a sending unit?
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 222
Likes: 5
From: Dalton, Ga
Have you checked the fan clutch? Not sure that would cause all the issues you've described but it looks like you've changed everything else. 231° is hotter than I've ever seen my V10 get even when pulling a 10k camper at interstate speeds. It usually runs, according to my Livewire, about 210-212 when towing heavy and about 206 when just driving around.
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New User
Joined: Jun 2018
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I have not. What will running it without the thermostat prove? I have not let it overheat since, but with the temperature running as high as it is and the reservoir fluid still being at the max cold fill line, it just doesn't make any sense.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,576
Likes: 41
From: Wyoming
Running without thermostat will prove wither your pump or thermostat is bad.
if it still gets hot with no thermostat than likely a pump issue.
if not your new thermostat is likely bad.
what does temp sender read when 1st start up?
if it still gets hot with no thermostat than likely a pump issue.
if not your new thermostat is likely bad.
what does temp sender read when 1st start up?
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New User
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New User
Joined: Jun 2018
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OK, that was around the outside temperature, but I don't remember exactly what the original start up temp was, I will check. What should the temperature be on a cold start up? The weather is not cooperating today and my truck is too tall to fit in my garage, so I will work on this tomorrow. I will run without the thermostat and see what happens, it will likely just put another new thermostat in. If I head back to the water pump being an issue, what else can I do to test it? We looked at it when I replace the rad in the impellers we're fine, no leaks including around the weep pole, Darren refined and there is no noise being made.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,344
Likes: 3
From: NYC
If you've already had the pump out of the block and it checks out then I'd say it isn't your problem.
I have seen water pumps fail in a few ways.
- water pump bearings fail and trigger the weep hole to start gushing/dripping coolant
- water pump shaft breaks/strips and the pulley turns without powering the impeller thus not moving coolant around
- water pump impeller becomes corroded or damaged where it stops moving coolant
Example of the case I experienced in my original response to your post. The pump that failed didn't leak/make noise at all, which is why we overlooked it at first.
Just a few suggestions.
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New User
Joined: Jun 2018
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OK, I know I'm going to get jumped on for this. Closest Ford dealership did not have a thermostat on them and this was on a Saturday and they wouldn't have it till Monday which I didn't want to wait for, so I went with a NAPA brand. The old one was 185°, the new one I put in was 195 as that is what was OEM from everything I've read. Do you respond to the second part, Yes Connor took the water pump off and inspected when we changed the radiator. everything seemed to be fine.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 222
Likes: 5
From: Dalton, Ga
Some Google research on "v10 overheating issue" did net a couple of hits on RV forums where the sending unit was at fault on RV chassis running Ford V10's. Any way you can plumb in a cheap mechanical temp gauge and compare the readings? I'm not familiar enough with the V10's cooling plumbing to know where you might install the probe. That's about the only problem I haven't had is overheating.