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I wanted to do my annual dropping of the spare to check the pressure and grease the cable but the lock to the rod insert area in the bumper was seized tight. Took over an hour to get it unstuck with releasing agent spray on both sides. Anyone else had this happen and is there preventive maintenance required? On this, and all previous trucks for years, I always squirted a little WD40 on the mechanism before reinstalling and never had any issues but this one seized up completely. I noticed there are two rubbery gaskets on the front and back of the turning mechanism and am guessing that dirt and grit went in between and hardened right up.
So now that it is all cleaned up, shall I leave it dry or spray lube it again for next time? Thought I was doing myself a favor lubing it up last year but it backfired!
(and the spare pressure was way down, so better check yours guys)
I wanted to do my annual dropping of the spare to check the pressure and grease the cable but the lock to the rod insert area in the bumper was seized tight. Took over an hour to get it unstuck with releasing agent spray on both sides. Anyone else had this happen and is there preventive maintenance required? On this, and all previous trucks for years, I always squirted a little WD40 on the mechanism before reinstalling and never had any issues but this one seized up completely. I noticed there are two rubbery gaskets on the front and back of the turning mechanism and am guessing that dirt and grit went in between and hardened right up.
So now that it is all cleaned up, shall I leave it dry or spray lube it again for next time? Thought I was doing myself a favor lubing it up last year but it backfired!
(and the spare pressure was way down, so better check yours guys)
STOP using WD-40. It is NOT a lubricant. The only thing WD-40 should be used on is cabinet hinges and as a stainless steel cleaner. That stuff causes more harm than good.
STOP using WD-40. It is NOT a lubricant. The only thing WD-40 should be used on is cabinet hinges and as a stainless steel cleaner. That stuff causes more harm than good.
Couldn't agree more. WD40 is for penetrating and water displacement. It degrades quickly as lube. It will clean away any meaningful lube that was already there and dry up. If you were using WD30 on your door hinges, that might part of the reason they were squeaking.
I would use a white lithium spray lube on both the hinges and spare tire winch. Use it on your door latches and hood hinges too. If you look at you tailgate higes you'll see that Ford uses the white lithium there too. It doesn't evaporate and maintains a high film strength over a long period of time. Spray it on the latches too. I don't know about rust proof coating s or KROWN, since I don't have to worry about rust down here, but if it isn't made to lubricate then that could be a problem.
Yep use only dry silicone spray on any lock. Use the heqvy silicone on hinges and areas that need or have movement. WD-40 contains parrifin and will attract dirt and dust and gum up everything.
I keep my lock inside the console. It got a little rusty and hard to turn. So I lubed it with graphite. And I only use it when Im out of town with the truck. At home I dont worry about the spare.
Don't use Graphite on any modern lock, it gums them up. Use Spray Heavy Silicon Lube.
It depends on the lock. Household lock like kwikset use a wet lube. Schlage uses a dry graphite lube. Use the wrong one one either one and it will gum it up. Throw the WD40 away. LPS 1 is a great thin wet lube. LPS 3 it a much thicker wet lube.
Standard anti-seize is dry graphite in an evaporating carrier. The liquid will let it get in there, but once it evaporates, all that's left is the dry graphite. It's kind of messy going in, but once it's dry, it will not attract dirt. I've used it on all sorts of locks that have to live outdoors.
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