Are you confusing the brake warning switch which is on the proportioning valve with the brake light switch which is part of the brake pedal assembly? This is what my 79 pedal looks like with the switch on it.

 

 

 

I know, it sounded to me like he is trying to run the brake lights with the warning switch. He needs to come back with a more detailed description. If he's referring to the plunger switch on the pedal it does have continuity until it is depressed nearly all the way in. I didn't even bother with hooking up the warning light circuit on mine. Didn't want to fool with all that wiring for a light that most likely will never come on.

 

Just tossing out ideas:

Did U swap the original 66 brake pressure switch for the electrical plunger type, usually mounted on the brake peddle assembly?? Also, not sure about the 78 brake proportion valve, believe proportion valves can be 'drum-disk' or 'disk-disk' type to name a couple?

When I upgraded to front disk I modified a T fitting and mounted it onto the 78 proportion valve and used the brake pressure switch; believe consensus of opinion is the electrical plunger type switch would be safer??

Anyhow, food for thought??

 

Only pressure differential valves were used on '67-up all-wheel drum vehicles. Disc/drum combination valves were used on '73-up model trucks with discs front/drums rear. These valves contain a metering (hold-off) valve for the front disc brakes, a pressure differential valve to sense for pressures between the front and rear brakes and a proportioning valve for the rear drums.

 

Ultranger, Do you know of anyone who sells that Metering Valve Bleeder Tool #J22742. Or is it one of those things we just have to make ourselves.

 

 

When I google on Kent Moore J22742 I get a few hits. Grainger shows this as something they have that might do the trick. A bit on the expensive side, but maybe it will give an idea of how to make your own

https://www.grainger.com

• Item # 2TVH9

I found I have to right click the link and say Open in New Tab to make it work for some reason.

Chad

 

I've searched for it before but only got vague or inconclusive information. It may be possible to make one out of a flat piece of spring steel.

However, it depends on what type of '73-up disc/drum Ford truck brake valve assembly as to what needs to be done, in regards to the metering bleed pin. IF the valve is for a truck rated for under 6900# GVW, the metering pin on the valve needs to be pulled outwards when bleeding the front brakes.

IF the disc/drum brake valve is for a truck rated for 6900# GVW or greater, the pin needs to be pushed inwards.

 

Thanks Gentlemen! I was afraid that thing wasn't available anymore, if it ever was. I suspect it came in some sort of Rotunda brake service kit and nowhere else.
The one from Grainger would probably work for the push in pins. But I have the sliding calipers so I need to hold the pin out to bleed the brakes. I had them all bled out last fall, but that made in Mexico master cylinder went bad just sitting. And since it had a lifetime warranty I swapped it out. But now I'm back to square one. Having one of those tools is a lot easier than finding somebody to lay under the truck and hold that pin out while I bleed the brakes. I guess it's time to start whittling one out of a piece of spring steel.

 

Nice, clean looking setup there.

Back around 2009, a friend of mine who has a '65 F100 had installed DJM drop beams and '78 F150 front discs. He wanted me to remove the single pot suicide MC and replace it with a tandem MC and plumb it.







A few weeks ago, my friend brought the '65 F100 back to me to add a power brake booster, a 'modern' brake MC (1-1/16" bore for a '95 Ford Explorer), a disc/drum brake valve (GM aftermarket reproduction valve) and to replumb the entire truck from the front to the rear.

Like the '67 model Bumpside, the '66-earlier trucks brake pedal pivot is located much more forward on the pedal support (closer to the firewall) than on the '68-up models. This put the center of the booster input rod eyelet well behind the attachment bolt hole on the side of the brake pedal.

I

This pretty much left me with 3 choices to install the '72 F350 dual diaphragm booster: 1) Cut the booster input rod shorter and rethread it (although, if the booster ever had to be replaced in the future, this same modification would have to be made to the replacement booster before it could be installed). 2) drill new holes more rearward in the pedal support to move the pivot pin back or, 3) fabricate a spacer block to push the booster more forward off the firewall.

I decided I would fabricate a spacer block. No modifications would have to be made to the pedal support or to the input rod of the booster and any potential replacement boosters in the future would be a direct bolt-on, right out of the box.

I took some 3/4" thick 6061 T6 aluminum and cut it into two 4" x 4" blocks. The two blocks would be stacked and bolted together. However, the overall thickness of them together was 1.5" and the overall thickness I needed was less at 1.245". After I bolted the two blocks together, I milled the surface down on one of the blocks to achieve the needed 1.245" overall thickness.













The hard plastic dust boot fit perfectly in the 1.900" hole in middle of the spacer.







The old, small, low-mounted '65 F100 hard line-to-flexible brake hose brackets were still on the truck. If you're putting Dentside front discs on your pre-'71 model truck, these frame brackets need to be changed out for the correct taller, L-shaped brackets. These were first installed on the '71 model trucks ('71-'79). '70 and earlier trucks have the smaller frame brackets for the hard line-to-flexible brake hoses.



I had a '74 model Dentside pedal support with the brake pedal (for an automatic transmission) and the brake light switch still attached.



I removed the '74 brake pedal from the support, bead blasted it and compared it to the old '65 F100 brake pedal.



For the lack of a better term, the 'pivot tube' at the upper end of the '74 pedal was a good bit wider than the one on the '65 brake pedal and obviously wasn't going to fit up inside the '65 pedal support, as-is. I measured the length of the tube on the '65 pedal, transferred the measurement over onto the '74 pedal and cut the tube down to the needed width.







After the tube width was cut down on the '74 brake pedal, it fit perfectly in the '65 pedal support but, the '74 pedal pivot pin was definitely way longer than the support was wide. ....what to do? I decided in order to restrict the pivot pin from floating back-and-forth in the pedal support, I would turn a bushing out of some UHMW plastic rod.


, to take up the free-length of the pin sticking out of the pedal support.







All I lack is to pull the original brake pressure switch wires through the firewall and into the cab and connect them to the two wires on the brake switch mounted on the '74 brake pedal. The rest of the system has been installed and plumbed.