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Old Jun 2, 2018 | 05:19 AM
  #16  
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Got under there this morning. Track bar mounting bolt was loose. So loose I was able to use 2 crescent wrenches to tighten it. Is the torque spec on that bolt really 416lbs? Then the three frame mount bolts on the bds drop bracket were all a tad loose as well. I need all the torque specs for those bolts and the U-bolts as well. 4 of the 8 U-bolt nuts took a flat or two as well!!
 
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Old Jun 2, 2018 | 06:43 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by LiquidSteam
Got under there this morning. Track bar mounting bolt was loose. So loose I was able to use 2 crescent wrenches to tighten it. Is the torque spec on that bolt really 416lbs? Then the three frame mount bolts on the bds drop bracket were all a tad loose as well. I need all the torque specs for those bolts and the U-bolts as well. 4 of the 8 U-bolt nuts took a flat or two as well!!
Yikes! Good thing you got under there to check it. Yes, the big track bar mounting bolt torque spec is 400 ft lbs plus. I have read it posted on here as 405 ft lbs and 410 and 416 but that’s splitting hairs. In my experience you need at least a 3 foot breaker bar to reach that kind of torque while under your truck or a torque multiplier tool. I don’t know what the specs are for the bracket bolts but they should be listed in your BDS instruction manual. If you didn’t save it you could look it up on line and if they don’t post it on line perhaps you could see if ReadyLift has their instructions for their drop bracket listed on line.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2018 | 05:08 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by CO Wapiti

Yikes! Good thing you got under there to check it. Yes, the big track bar mounting bolt torque spec is 400 ft lbs plus. I have read it posted on here as 405 ft lbs and 410 and 416 but that’s splitting hairs. In my experience you need at least a 3 foot breaker bar to reach that kind of torque while under your truck or a torque multiplier tool. I don’t know what the specs are for the bracket bolts but they should be listed in your BDS instruction manual. If you didn’t save it you could look it up on line and if they don’t post it on line perhaps you could see if ReadyLift has their instructions for their drop bracket listed on line.
No more clunking sound lol.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2018 | 09:13 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by wicked 2018
So is using a Carli track bar on a 2.5" lift a no go?
I have Carli's bar with their 2.5" level (Pintop) and my truck drives like a dream. I am very happy with it.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 05:43 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by CO Wapiti

Yikes! Good thing you got under there to check it. Yes, the big track bar mounting bolt torque spec is 400 ft lbs plus. I have read it posted on here as 405 ft lbs and 410 and 416 but that’s splitting hairs. In my experience you need at least a 3 foot breaker bar to reach that kind of torque while under your truck or a torque multiplier tool. I don’t know what the specs are for the bracket bolts but they should be listed in your BDS instruction manual. If you didn’t save it you could look it up on line and if they don’t post it on line perhaps you could see if ReadyLift has their instructions for their drop bracket listed on line.
I did my frt end this weekend 400 seems crazy factory was hardly 100 but I just pulled it tight with some big tools 3/4 stuff and a bar.

Originally Posted by f350ktm
I have Carli's bar with their 2.5" level (Pintop) and my truck drives like a dream. I am very happy with it.
im gonna have to agree ive been building trucks for 35 years and I think that is the best stuff ive seen carli 2.5 pin top. although (Icon) is right there as well . my frt end is centered perfect . the bar is almost bottomed out but measures good 37.5/16 per instructions drove it in this morning no issues steering wheel straight , no bump steer and very smooth ride on the king shocks what a nice piece these shocks are! every brkt and mount is very heavy duty well made and powder coated I would recommend this setup to anyone with the $
 
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 02:17 PM
  #21  
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interesting the different feedback on the Carli trackbar. it would seem they wouldn't release a part that doesn't work with their own kit, sounds like it runs on the lower end of the adjustment, but as long as it gives the length you need that's good
 
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 04:54 PM
  #22  
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Just heard back from Dan at Carli. He says that on their next production run, they’ll offer an additional trac bar for those with the 2.5” leveling kit. Essentially, the length will be shortened 1/4” for the leveling kit. Current length is 37-5/16” and the shorter one being 37-1/16”.

BTW- I have dibs on one of the first runs, but still have yet to buy my leveling kit. Time & money issue. No time and kids are milking me dry! (One college bound, and one is having a baby very soon). Someday it’ll happen...
 
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 05:40 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by AK-AlumADuty
Just heard back from Dan at Carli. He says that on their next production run, they’ll offer an additional trac bar for those with the 2.5” leveling kit. Essentially, the length will be shortened 1/4” for the leveling kit. Current length is 37-5/16” and the shorter one being 37-1/16”.

BTW- I have dibs on one of the first runs, but still have yet to buy my leveling kit. Time & money issue. No time and kids are milking me dry! (One college bound, and one is having a baby very soon). Someday it’ll happen...
good to hear. guess only downside is for those who end up going to 4.5" later and have to buy a new track bar too

Ill probably go with the PMF one with it being more adjustable.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 06:41 PM
  #24  
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416 ft lbs is the correct torque number for the track bar, make sure you use a healthy dose of red loctite too. The frame mount bolts are only about 120 ft. lbs if I remember correctly....not as important as the track bar though. 4ft breaker bar and some gumption

As for why Ford doesn't offer an adjustable trackbar, its more expensive and its another point of failure/maintenance. While most of us would love it, the 900k other Super Duties on the road that are running completely stock until the day they die would not like the added maintenance and issues that would arise. Its an economy of scale thing.

Carli, Icon, PMF, BDS, and....theres another....I can't seem to remember...all make adjustables. I'm happy enough with my drop bracket and stock arm for now. No issues and it centered the axle perfectly.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 07:49 PM
  #25  
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Cool, they say when it'll be out? I'm about to Carli level soon too

Originally Posted by AK-AlumADuty
Just heard back from Dan at Carli. He says that on their next production run, they’ll offer an additional trac bar for those with the 2.5” leveling kit. Essentially, the length will be shortened 1/4” for the leveling kit. Current length is 37-5/16” and the shorter one being 37-1/16”.

BTW- I have dibs on one of the first runs, but still have yet to buy my leveling kit. Time & money issue. No time and kids are milking me dry! (One college bound, and one is having a baby very soon). Someday it’ll happen...
 
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Old Jun 5, 2018 | 07:35 AM
  #26  
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My Carli bar is bottomed out and the axle is still shifted to the passenger side. I brought this to they're attention long ago with no resolution.
I still feel it is the best bar on the market.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2018 | 07:59 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by kylant
My Carli bar is bottomed out and the axle is still shifted to the passenger side. I brought this to they're attention long ago with no resolution.
I still feel it is the best bar on the market.
The rod end is threaded directly into the tubing itself. Might be worth taking the track bar apart, and measuring how far into the bar the threads run. If the threads in the tubing are deep enough, you should be able to just cut 1/4" from the bar and srcew the rod end back in.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2018 | 09:44 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by grngiant
The rod end is threaded directly into the tubing itself. Might be worth taking the track bar apart, and measuring how far into the bar the threads run. If the threads in the tubing are deep enough, you should be able to just cut 1/4" from the bar and srcew the rod end back in.
be a bummer to have to cut a $450 bar that was suppose to work.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2018 | 05:35 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by grngiant
The rod end is threaded directly into the tubing itself. Might be worth taking the track bar apart, and measuring how far into the bar the threads run. If the threads in the tubing are deep enough, you should be able to just cut 1/4" from the bar and srcew the rod end back in.
thats what i would do it doesn't even have to super precise the threads will keep it straight. cut off wheel or chop box.it would be nice to find a threaded pipe plug so you could just back it out after you cut it to fix the threads easy.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2018 | 10:00 AM
  #30  
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So I loosened the track bar nut and bolt this morning, hit it with some blue loctite and torqued as hard as I could with a small breaker bar and socket. If it comes loose again I’ll need a lift and a 3 foot pipe!!
 
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