Firstly, it's terrifyingly easy to start this truck with a screwdriver in less than 5 minutes having never even done that before. Yet another reason I'd like to ****-slap a Ford engineer...

Anyway, I went to start my truck and the key just spun right into the "start" position but didn't do anything. There is less resistance in the cylinder (noticeably easier to turn key). The key does seem to stop and catch at all the points it normally should and the release lever is still functioning.

I pulled the cylinder on the side of the road (downtown Cleveland of all places) and was able to start the truck with a screwdriver. Great. But now it won't shut off unless I intentionally stall it out then I have to disconnect the batteries to get the dash to turn off. The electronics are stuck as if the key is in it still in the truck and in the "on" position. Radio on, etc. I don't have anything like remote start or any other gadgets that would effect those circuits.

The cylinder looks fine to me... The little T at the end of it is intact. It's dark now so I can't look too closely at column, but the female part that the T goes into looks fine too... this is what I turned with the screwdriver.

Is this another easy fix? Most problems on this (very problematic) truck, so far, have been relatively well explained online. Is this a new item or does anyone have experience with this?

 

Edit: I think I figured out the issue (thanks Google)... bad ignition switch actuator... does anyone know of a write-up for this on a 2000 F250? Google brought up a lot of instances of these going bad on Fords in general but not a superduty specifically.

 

No takers?

For what it's worth the pin simply fell out of the rod that goes from the ignition cylinder gear down to the actuator assembly.

It's possible to fix this as well as replace that geared plastic rod without pulling the entire steering column. It's not easy, however. Takes some MacGeyvering.

I'm struggling getting the clock spring back in place as well as the spring for the tilt wheel. Getting the gears lined up on the right tooth is also critical, if incorrect truck will not start. Test this with key before re-assembling the steering wheel/etc.

 

Thanks for the info. I now know what to do if this happens to me.

I think this is the first thread I've seen started, replied to, and answered by the same user. Reps sent!

 

Haha, thanks Brian. At least someone it paying attention! Below is a ****ty write-up.

Fair warning; I left a lot of steps out. A lot of this info is better left off of the internet to keep potential thieves at bay and honestly, if you can't figure it out to the point that these photos are helpful, you should not be attempting this anyway. I only noted steps that gave me a hard time. I should also say that this was not a task for beginners or folks who are novice with mechanical/electrical auto repair. It's really all nuts and bolts but you have to think like a kid who played with a lot of legos. Your average locksmith would likely not be capable of doing this either and would probably refer you to the dealer. Basically, if you have never rebuilt an engine and this happens to you... plan to call a tow truck and send it to the dealer.

I wish I knew what type of grease they use for the gearing at the factory, it's yellow and almost foamy. Mine needed cleaned and re-lubed badly but I don't even know where to start looking for this stuff and was short on time. The dirty old parts went right back in. The grease is tacky so it doesn't drip down into the ignition switch, I imagine it's electronics safe, and also must be long lasting as I'm sure Ford never intended for any of this to come apart. If anyone knows the type or brand please post here.

This is the pin that came loose below. The rod to the right is the top ignition actuator piece. The gears on this rod must be perfectly aligned when re-installing in order for the key to work.


Pin goes here. To get this back in, you have to remove the actual ignition switch, which is not pictured anywhere in this writeup. You must then get something long (screwdriver) behind the column and up into the "tube" where the lower actuator rod resides. Push this up towards you until you can get the upper rod and pin back in where it belongs. ...Then comes the cylinder gear (pictured above, round gear) alignment. All I can say there is good luck... play around with gear positions in relation to the switch position until you get it. Test the key before re-assembling the steering wheel and whatnot. The gear only goes in one way and the gears on actuator rod need to be perfectly aligned. I re-assembled the gear/retaining plate and plastic clip AFTER putting the tilt portion of the column back together so I could test the key in place.


Column spring retaining ring re-install. Good luck! I had to make a tool. I'm sure Ford makes one too for a couple hundred bucks. I went to DumbDumb Depot and got a 2-1/2" x 1" nipple and a fender washer. Use the steering wheel bolt to compress the spring and get the retaining ring back where it belongs on the LOWER cutout. The arrow here points to the INCORRECT cutout for the retaining ring. Your clock spring will not go back on with the ring on the upper cutout.





This spring is a mother****ing bitch to get back in. It's do-able but you need muscles. That is all:


Anyone can feel free to PM me for more info, again I left out a lot of info on the process intentionally.