p1316 code, multiple symptoms
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 903
Likes: 9
From: melbourne beach, fl
p1316 code, multiple symptoms
so this is an 03 e350 188k, 7.3l, bought the truck a few months ago and might pull the engine for my f250. As of now the e350 is driveable and ttrying to go through it before i do a swap. Fresh oil, and ICP, not sure how many miles on injectors. here's what happened: when driving and oil is warm, truck lacks power, like a dog, anyway this thing wont shift past 2nd gear, it is lagging and very slow , no throttle response. when oil is cold, drives normal, until it warms up. im also having a shuddering effect that only comes into play when in 3rd gear at about 45. And that is only when the oil is cold enough to reach those speeds. so with a 1316 code, im thinking injectors, havent done a buzz test. Ive already been in the tank and removed the screens and have a pre pump filter. wondering if my ipr o rings might play a part in this as a simple fix. If im doing injector o rings, ill do them when I pull motor. only code i have is 1316, thankx for the wisdom, Ronjon
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 903
Likes: 9
From: melbourne beach, fl
yes i shift into neutral and it does increase rpm's, although a little less than normal. I should add already did 50 cent mod and just unplugged ebpv and is bogs down while in gear
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 903
Likes: 9
From: melbourne beach, fl
ive got an extra set ipr o rings and a brand new ipr so ill tackle that first and then also do an ebpv cause thats easy and report back. I think perhaps the coil on the ipr might be a concern as well, Thanks for your attention, Ronjon
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,414
Likes: 10
From: Thornhill , Ontario
I think it is a harness uvh issue maybe the connectors... leave the IPR alone.... 50 cent Mod does nothing if your harnesses are gone.....You need to look at the wiring ort the harnesses and gaskets.... and the connectors.....also check the a Glow plugs and Injector Torque....
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,293
Likes: 10
From: Parker, CO
You have separate problems happening:
- P1316 is an issue on the electrical side of the injector.
- Losing power as the engine oil warms up is an issue on the mechanical side of the injector.
On the electrical side you'll need to get the codes from the IDM (the P1316 means there are codes stored in the IDM). That will help narrow down the electrical issue whether it's related to the valve cover harness or whatnot.
On the mechanical side you'll need to figure out where the oil is going, it's bleeding out and you're dropping ICP as the oil warms up and the viscosity drops. Could be bad o-rings, or there could be problems with the injectors themselves, or HPOP, etc.
- P1316 is an issue on the electrical side of the injector.
- Losing power as the engine oil warms up is an issue on the mechanical side of the injector.
On the electrical side you'll need to get the codes from the IDM (the P1316 means there are codes stored in the IDM). That will help narrow down the electrical issue whether it's related to the valve cover harness or whatnot.
On the mechanical side you'll need to figure out where the oil is going, it's bleeding out and you're dropping ICP as the oil warms up and the viscosity drops. Could be bad o-rings, or there could be problems with the injectors themselves, or HPOP, etc.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 903
Likes: 9
From: melbourne beach, fl
I replaced the ICP at the very first repair and it started. Would a bad ICP cause a SES and a p1316? This truck also did also have a bad IDM.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,293
Likes: 10
From: Parker, CO
If you replaced the IDM and still getting P1316, then the problem isn't the IDM. You have most likely harness related issues under the valve covers setting the codes within the IDM, which would explain some of your drive-ability issues. Again this is just the electrical side of the injectors. The electrical side can only diagnose electrical issues, not mechanical.
You still have to account for the mechanical issues related to the injectors. Losing power as engine oil heats up means the thinner oil is going somewhere it's not supposed to. Bad injector o-rings, worn poppet valves, etc would cause that. Those issues typically won't set codes other than an occasional low ICP code. Since you've already replaced the ICP sensor, if you get another code just know it's because oil is going somewhere it shouldn't and is dropping pressure, causing your power loss. Your done with the ICP for now.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,414
Likes: 10
From: Thornhill , Ontario
Pocket is 100% ......but in my case I have a MT 2500 and AutoTap but the Snap on with the contribiution Test and the Buzz says 7 is low .....and that is the code......If I have to replace the Harness clip to that side I will.....for now I am just replacing the gasket assembly and re-torqueing the Injectors...I guess I should have scanned it for codes before I took it apart....BUT that would make too much sense.......But I felt it ....
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 903
Likes: 9
From: melbourne beach, fl
i dont have AE on my laptop so am in the process of making this driveable to get to a shop that I know who can. The truck was driving at 60mph previoucly although the smell of buring trans fluid was evident since then Ive added shudder fixx fromlube gurad and now it has eliminated the slipping of the t/c. it has since then revealed a symptom elsewhere.I understand a buzz test is in order because the codes are stored in the IDM. when I did the 50 cent mod I inspected the pins, and they looked good at the connectors. it is about time to break out the multi meter and do a wire by wire examination i guess. the ICP i pulled from a running truck of mine that I know is good.
I am in the process of purging the air from the hpop doing cranking. batteries charging as i type this. I did notice the SES light went off. I did install a diferent coil on the IPR. nothing else has changed. This is a reman motor with the injectors torqued , i noticed the markings for each bolt with green paint line. ill inspect those as well.
I am in the process of purging the air from the hpop doing cranking. batteries charging as i type this. I did notice the SES light went off. I did install a diferent coil on the IPR. nothing else has changed. This is a reman motor with the injectors torqued , i noticed the markings for each bolt with green paint line. ill inspect those as well.
New User
Joined: May 2018
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F250 7.3 w/P1316 Code
Hey guys having a little trouble here figuring out what’s going on with my 7.3... P1316 code is still up with a loss of power. Changed the icp sensor & pigtail, irp sensor, checked both valve cover harness. One was bad, Installed new one. From what I remember there was a lot of oil in the pig tail of the old icp sensor is that creating high resistance? Seems like a short somewhere. There was still a little bit of oil in the wires when I installed a new one pig tail. Truck runs okay for a bit then suddenly starts to cut out to little power. Any suggestions? Don’t wanna take it to the shop just yet..
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 903
Likes: 9
From: melbourne beach, fl
check the ipr solenoid or "coil" as its referred. Its exposed to heat from the turbo. they can act up or go bad as well Thats an easy effort if you have a spare. ANyway remove the tin nut from the end of the ipr, slide off the spacer as welll, and then the solenoid and then unplug it and reinstall new one.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 10,750
Likes: 1,065
From: Douglassville, PA
Hey guys having a little trouble here figuring out what’s going on with my 7.3... P1316 code is still up with a loss of power. Changed the icp sensor & pigtail, irp sensor, checked both valve cover harness. One was bad, Installed new one. From what I remember there was a lot of oil in the pig tail of the old icp sensor is that creating high resistance? Seems like a short somewhere. There was still a little bit of oil in the wires when I installed a new one pig tail. Truck runs okay for a bit then suddenly starts to cut out to little power. Any suggestions? Don’t wanna take it to the shop just yet..