Reason for zero compression in cylinder 3: hole in piston.

 

That will do it. Sorry about that. So what's your plan?

 

Doing research on which long block to get now. I would get a Ford factory reman but my last experience with one of their transmissions left a sour taste in my mouth.

 

Why not replace the one bad piston? Assuming no cracks in any of the others. Even then, why not keep your block?

 

Unfortunately, the other pistons are not far from failing too. This one from cylinder four is representative of all the other pistons.

As far as keeping the block goes, I have not found a shop local to me that can do an align hone on the crank journals yet.

 

Wow makes me want to peek down inside with a camera. Well makes me not want to peek inside actually

 

Did you find what was bouncing around and left all those marks on #4 piston? And you can see valve marks on both pistons, was it over-revved?

 

You have a valve indentation on that piston....and something else got loose in there as well.

 

I have no idea what got in there to cause those marks. There was certainly no foreign material left in the cylinder to identify. I have also never overevved the engine so the valve marks are a mystery to me too.

It is beginning to dawn on me just how lucky I have been with this truck. I bought it back in 2008 and it soon became obvious that the previous owner had removed a lot of go-fast bits. All of this damage might have already existed then. The fact that it has lasted until now means it has lived on a lot of borrowed time.

EDIT: Or I may just have a really heavy right foot and I'm paying for it now.

 

After spending almost the entire summer in the garage, my truck is finally back up and running. I decided to ship the engine off to Swamps Diesel to have them rebuild it for me. That decision came about for the following reasons:

1. I had no access to the kind of machine shop locally that could do all the things they could.
2. They had a proven combination of rebuild parts that would have taken me an entire summer of research to possibly come up with as good a combo.
3. I use my truck to support my business so it needed to be back up and running fast. One could argue that spending an entire summer at a standstill isn't fast but that is still faster than what I could have managed rebuilding it myself.
4. They broke the engine in on a dyno for me.

So this is what they did to my engine:
Manley billet rods
Mahle pistons, ceramic coated
ARP head studs
Firerings and associated machining of heads and block
All new valves, valve guides and high rate valve springs
Stage 1 3/8" oil-thru pushrods
Melling high volume LPOP
Mahle lifters
Billet dipstick boss welded to pan
ARP main studs
Block and crank machined, honed and magnafluxed.
Bunch of other stuff with dollar signs attached

I also took the opportunity to clean the heck out of the engine compartment, brush and POR15 all rusty surfaces, eliminate all the fuel line quick disconnects with proper JIC 37 deg fittings, eliminate the midships flexible fuel supply line, flush the gunk out of the AC evap coil, fab and install what I hope is a more effective heatshield between the AC and the engine, replace all the worn pigtails on the engine harness, modify my aero headlight housings to take 7x6" sealed beam LEDs and sneak set of Stage 3 injectors past the wife as part of the blown engine troubleshooting.

The truck has been running smoothly for the last two weeks. My thanks to Swamps for a job well done.

 

Awesome to hear, man..pics would ice the cake

 

Midships fuel line from frame rail to engine. Yucky rusty portion on original is my original patch for the missing factory fuel pump. I did the in-tank fuel pump mod many years ago. I may revert back to a frame mounted fuel pump now that the quick disconnects are gone.

 

I could have sworn I took more pictures than this. I guess I'll have to go get some fresh ones tomorrow.

 

It happens lol..i received my bypass kit for the trans. Hoping to do a tutorial as good as colorado or Y2K with pics and photo drawing..i doubt it though..haha.. Anyway, the blue section of the oem line, i believe that is for movement between motor and frame. Yours is rigid. Does it not need "flex" anywhere alongvthat plumbing?

 

Ford Truck Noob …. You do not have to do that...you can get custom fuel lines made for whatever you want...you just need to specify the Pressure and the length....