So I have been chasing down a misfire since my debacle with a tank of bad fuel (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ed-diesel.html). It turns out I had a short-to-ground in the injector circuit for the passenger side. After replacing both UVCHs, both valve cover gaskets, the IDM and the passenger side pigtail, that problem was solved. However, I still had a misfire. Perhaps an injector got damaged so injectors got replaced with FFD Stg 3 205cc hybrids . I still had a misfire. So I performed a compression test and discovered cylinder #3 has ABSOLUTELY NO COMPRESSION . The rest of the cylinders did not fare too well either. My best one topped out at 350psi. The others were around 320psi.

Is contaminated diesel capable of causing such damage? Or do I just have a tired engine? Mileage is currently 338,589. By the time the Dept of Weights and Measures got to the gas station, it was 3 days after I bought the fuel and the sample they got tested okay. I gave them some of the stuff I had pumped out of my fuel tank and that one tested contaminated. Unfortunately, none of that will stand up in court now because of chain-of-custody issues etc etc.

Thus, the advice I seek from you is what should I do next? Given that compression on all cylinders isn't great, should I attempt to rebuild the engine or just get a remanufactured one and transfer all of my goodies over? Who would you recommend I get a remanufactured one from? My preliminary research shows that remanufactured engines usually come without all the external accessories attached. What do I need to take off my current engine?

 

That's up to you. People have just replaced one cylinder and been on there way. Being your within 10 percent on each cylinder except the bad one replacing that one might be a option. Thing is, you have to brake it down and see what's damaged. Hows the blow bye? Is it back firing? Can you do a running compression? Me, I'd pull it and rebuild the whole thing with over 300K. Check and see what shops are in your area, you might find one that's good on machining and balancing. You going to keep the truck. It's common to replace one piston on the big rigs, and guys have done it here in the pass, me I'd do the whole thing because I would plan to keep it. New trucks at my age our just to costly.

 

And for switching things over, everything that's not part of a long block needs to be switched. Brackets, ac, alternator, ps pump etc. What nozzles did you get with the 205? That was a really popular injectors years back. All that stuff has to be changed over as well.

 

maybe it's just a valve

 

The blowby is pretty bad now with a good amount of fumes coming out the oil filler tube. It is not backfiring though. Is there any point doing the running compression when I already know #3 is FUBAR? Yes, I want to keep this truck. None of the newer models have as much appeal for me.I think we are both in the same boat in terms of our age vs cost of new trucks. I agree that the next time the truck is running all the engine internals will have been refreshed, regardless of rebuild or reman,

I got them with 80% nozzles.

I sure want it to be but do not hold out much hope. Valve movement while I was cranking the engine over seemed normal. The increased blowby leads me to believe a ring has broken. The cylinder literally built no pressure during the compression test. Pressing the pressure release on the pressure gauge did not even produce the tiniest fart.

 

Sounds like a cranked piston. I'd just pull it. Tear it down and see whats up. You could also go used motor on the cheap if you can find one. I'd take the time and rebuild this engine if it's not to damaged. Then you know you have a good engine for the next 500K. Guys love those 205/80 that have them. I remember Robin, that's what he had but then said he wished he'd put the 100 nozzle. I only think that because he had it dyno'd at RRE from DP and it made 476 hp. He didn't get the torq. He was a great guy, RIP Robin!
Guy named The Braid on here has those injector also. He put the T4 set up on his and loves it. He tows with know EGT problems either. He did get live tuned.

 

I agree with Bonanza .....find a good used engine ( with at least 60 days warranty ) and put your parts on it ......If you can`t find one buy a short block.....and put your stuff on it ...

 

Well, I have decided to take Bonanza's advice to pull the engine to see what is wrong with it first. Teardown of the truck has begun. Wish me luck.

 

Please keep us posted. If you can post pictures please do so. I never learned myself. I barely get around these things.

 

Good luck and look forward to hearing progress.

 

Ok if you do that don't skimp on the real parts....like stuff to keep it together for a while.... and do all the Intake chit once the Engine is out ..... and do same in exhaust....All of my engines I test the oil ...so I Know they are good before I spend money on them...I have rebuilt several Gas Engines...BUT Diesels are another animal....When I look at motors I do the Oil Cap Test and go for a ride ....I can tell if a Turbo is Dusted or if Rings are gone by several factors...Oil test is #1 but most PSD engines under 150 k are usually good ...It's just you need to spend a couple grand on the Injectors and their support systems .....( HPOP . IPR, ICP, UVC's , Glow Plugs , etc. etc .etc ) it never ends.....That's what I would do .....

 

Good luck! Looking forward to see what you find.

 

Ugh. Now we get to the bottom of what's going on. I just love how the cab has to be jacked up also to get the engine out.

 

Why did you not just take the turbo off an d leave the cab?

 

Believe it or not, jacking the cab up is actually faster than taking the turbo off. Getting to the cab mount nuts in the front was really easy with all the heat exchangers and subframe out of the way.