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I hope someone will be able to assist me with a problem. I have a 2000 Excursion which I purchased new. It has about 150,000 miles. It has developed a front end shake under braking. First thought was warped rotors. Replaced all 4 rotors, all brake pads, all shocks and steering stabilizer. Bearings are all good. Some warn bushings replaced. This was done at a dealership. Problem persists. Here in the flatland it is a noticeable shudder under braking that only appears at 47 mph down to about 25 mph. In Colorado where we go frequently, it gets much harder defending pass roads. If I let the speed get up it is a violent shake. I get no pedal response to indicate cylinder is pulsating. Also applying brake at 85 is smooth as silk until 47 indicated. Dealership can't figure it out. Anyone with some insight?
Need to add: replaced all four tires and have rotated multiple times. No effect.
Rotate the tires (swap fronts to back) and see if that has any effect. Maybe a tire or rim has gone bad or out if balance. It’s a cost free check to eliminate them as the possible cause at least
I did not see calibers in the list of replaced parts. I was having a similair issue a while back. Swapped rotors but it only fixed it for a little while. It wasn't until I replaced the calibers that it was fixed completely.
I did not see calibers in the list of replaced parts. I was having a similair issue a while back. Swapped rotors but it only fixed it for a little while. It wasn't until I replaced the calibers that it was fixed completely.
Bro, which CALIBER do you prefer?
LOL!
Seriously though, If rotated and ALL rotors and pads replaced, check wheel balance. E-rated tires are heavy and it doesn't take more than a rotation to throw off balance.
Seriously though, If rotated and ALL rotors and pads replaced, check wheel balance. E-rated tires are heavy and it doesn't take more than a rotation to throw off balance.
LOL. Oops. I prefer my .40 but really enjoy shooting my .300BLK and .50...
i had the same issue with mine and tried all of the above things that you tried. Turns out that it was a bad COP that was causing the plug to misfire to create the shudder. Under load, the coil/plug was fine but when I would leave off the accelerator to brake, it would shudder very badly.
Just a thought, but if you had a dongle and torque app, you might get lucky.
I recently fixed a bit of steering column shudder by working on something else, the vacuum front locking hubs. They were staying engaged while in unlocked position and 2wd selected on the dash.
In the bottom of the hub above the diaphram were two plastic pieces with a spring between them, they actuate the via vaccum lock feature with two positions like a ball point pen. Expanded and contracted with a spring between the two halves.
Inside my hubs looked like new but there was no grease on the plastic pieces guide fingers where they come together as two halves, nor any grease where they slid in the hub bore.
A touch of lube there got all that working again, now i see why its a big vac pulse to place in lock and a smaller vac pulse to latch them back together for unlock. When binding the small pulse was no longer enough to latch the two pieces back together.
I didn't get the dial cap to remove and didn't want to break them forcing it past the lock position like i have seen other threads mention for removal.
The end result was i lost the braking shudder that happened under 25 with no pedal pulsing. It was a totaly unexpected bonus to servicing the hubs.
Check and see if your drive shafts can spin in the knuckle if your EX is a 4x4, it takes a little bit of force pushing with a prybar to get it to rotate.
*EDIT* add that my shudder was not enough for a passenger to ever know it was there.
Is your truck reacting like this by chance?