EDIT: Just skip to last post for solution.
Can anyone post a link to the definitive dyi repair video of instructions for the darn stuck Ford door? My 2006 work van side handle won't function outside. Thanks in advance. I'd hang out but I'm now an hour late to my first customer......

 

 

 

Thanks for taking the time to answer. I am slammed at work, and I am installing a tile backsplash 16" up the wall in our kitchen at the same time. But having to open the front passenger door and reach in is a pain in the nether regions!

I did check out the plastic cable end sleeves and they are in place and appear fine. This is not a slider, it has the double door.

I was at the locksmith's replacing keys for my other truck my son bent, and he looked in and said it looks like something is missing between two bars (levers). So today I'm going to crimp a lead fishing weight that has a rubber insert you can attach to a fishing line. (Can't remember the name). But if I pull the rubber out I should be able to squeeze it on between the levers

I will report back..

 

Son of a...... just typed a few paragraphs about having no luck. Cable ends are good, sleeve things every one talks about replacing are good, I put a spacer that did nothing, and now the electric actuator rod fell out. I can't twist it around enough to get it back on.

 

OK, I finally got fed up enough I called my retired body shop buddy to help today. So here's how it went:
1) Pulled latch. Couldn't access.
2) Drilled out electric bracket rivet.
3) Confirmed cable ends were good.
4) Reinstalled cable, riveted in. DID NOT WORK.
Attempt #2
1) Completely diassembled, drilled out rivet again. Removed keyhole assembly/clip.
2) Put on cable out of another junkyard door. Re-riveted. DID NOT WORK.
Attempt #3. Pay attention now !!!!!
1) Attached a narrow vice grip to cable ball on lower end and stretched it out. Crimped on a small rubbercore fishing lead weight.
2) Let loose. WORKS !!!!!!!! Cables stretching out is apparently a SECOND issue when the issue isn't crumbling rubber ends.

 

Having done about 100 or so of these in my shops (on fleet contracts) ---- for future reference, that "drilled out electric bracket rivet" is an unnecessary step ---- if you're referring to the power lock actuator, leave the mount alone, simply pull out on the "u" shaped retainer holding the actuator and it comes right out.......it's a "compression" type fit.

BTW -- I've NEVER seen a cable stretching issue if you use the Motorcraft (quality) parts..................sometime people try Dorman parts (different cable lengths) and that causes problems.................

 

Thanks for the info on the electric actuator bracket. I wish you had replied month's ago, lol.

I can assure you, these are not aftermarket parts and no parts were crumbling. When I added a spacer it worked. I can find no other explanation than stretching.