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Rsh1966, The rod on my truck is close to 18". I would think that the '61-'63 would work. There is a recent thread on here or the dent or bump forums where the gentleman is making his own adjustable rod with hiem nut ends.
I had to pull up my old post concerning the clutch pedal not coming back. The reason to pull up the old post is because "sixty five ford" mentioned that my clutch rod is bent and it for sure is.
However I looked at all my catalogs and I can not find anyone that has a clutch rod for a 1966 f100. Can anyone point me in the right direction to purchase one?
C5TZ-7521-B .. Clutch Release Rod - 18 7/8" long - 3/8" diameter / Obsolete
Applications: 1965/66 F100/250 2WD
KAMA OBSOLETE PARTS in East Bethel MN has 1 = 763-434-0123.
It may be reproduced (Carpenter doesn't have any), you'll have to look at all the other repro parts sellers to see if anyone else does.
Note:If KAMA doesn't have it, you may be able to use this:
C7TZ-7521-A .. Clutch Release Rod - 1967 F100/350 / Obsolete ~ 3 available NOS
This might work, it's the same length and diameter as C5TZ-7521-B and uses the same nylon bushings.
NOS PARTS LTD in Waxahachie TX has 1 = 972-937-2201.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 1 = 800-543-4959.
BOWMAN SALES & SERVICE in Bowman ND has 1 = 701=523-3257.
John and ND
I tried to measure mine on the truck but ended up taking it off to measure it. Mine is right at 19" which verifies what ND tells me (18 7/8"). I will call a couple of the people that ND listed as having one of these rods. I would like to put mine in a vise and try to straighten it out just to see if I can. However, I think I will try to find a new one first. The one that I have is wallowed out. I know new bushing will help but I think the wallow out area will be a problem.
Thanks to both of you for your replies because it has helped a lot.
rsh1966
I tried to a couple of pics but after I downloaded them they don't show up on this Quick Reply.
t
I called all the places that ND recommended but no clutch rods were available. I think I will heat up the bar and straighten it out and then weld up the end as John recommended. I hope I don't screw it up. I have no idea why the previous owner would bend the rod the way they did. I might find out when I get it straight and it does not work.
Straighten the rod, as for there being no tension on the clutch pedal, crawl under the truck and extend the long nut on the threaded rod.. it looks like a bullet and is against the throw out bearing fork. That is what did it for me anyways.
John and ND
I tried to measure mine on the truck but ended up taking it off to measure it. Mine is right at 19" which verifies what ND tells me (18 7/8").
Once this rod is straightened out, it will be longer than 19" which means it's the wrong one.
Previous owner probably bought it from a wrecking yard from gawd only knows what, when he/she couldn't find the original.
There are three longer rods used on 1960's trucks, one is 19 3/8" another is 20 3/4" another is 21 3/16."
What caused the rod to bend? Did the previous owner 'bend it to fit' or did it bend itself from the force caused by the pedal being depressed, since it was too long?
As I stated earlier, I have no idea why or how the rod got bent. When I got the truck it was not running and had not run for 10 plus years. I also had to switch off the cab because it was a rust bucket. As of today my Amish friend who is very handy (sandblasts and welds) will straighten the rod out and weld up the wore area and grind it off. After straighting the rod I might find out why someone bent it in the first place. However this rod should be straight so we will see. I will let you know how it works out.
Thanks for your interest,
rsh1966
Here is the clutch rod straight as a string now and welded. I put it on and it works fine, but the clutch still does not come back as it should. I think I am going to find a place to add another spring to pull it back up. Hope pic comes through.
rsh1966
The clutch pedal should do the opposite when you take your foot off of it as it does when you put your foot on it. The pedal and rod and linkage should all react to the clutch diaphragm itself. The diaphragm is spring loaded and wants to return to it's resting position (engaged). When you raise your foot the diaphragm should push the throw-out bearing back to its resting location. The fork, being as it is attached to the throw-out bearing, should also be pushed back to its resting location, which in turn pushes the bell-crank and that should move the linkage back into place. The linkage is connected to the pedal so it has to move when all of this happens.
You might want to take a good hard look at everything and make sure you've got it all connected properly and that everything moves in correct relation to one another and that nothing is worn out causing this to happen.
I just removed my clutch pedal return spring on my truck and the clutch pedal still does everything it is supposed to do. The spring is just there to assist slightly.
Everything that you have said makes perfect sense. I am sure that is the way it should work. I will not give up. I will take another kick at the can.
Thanks Chad
just throwing this out there.
Have you recently replaced the clutch?
Chad is correct, the diaphragm should be the majority of force to bring back the pedal to its original place
I recently did mine and the fork was not sitting right inside and I did not realize it.
I connected everything, including the bullet looking thing which connects the pedal to the fork and when I depressed the pedal it felt like it was engaging the clutch, but it would not move and the pedal would not return fully.
I realized the large spring you initially mentioned gave some resistance, which made it feel like the clutch was engaging, but obviously it was not.
I finally got the fork to sit right on the pivot inside (PITA) and all worked appropriately.
My suggestion is to take the bullet looking piece off and verify the fork is engaging, by putting pressure on it as if you are pressing the pedal.
You should not have any significant play at all
If you do, the fork is not sitting right inside, which could be a big reason it is not returning.
That was my experience, good luck
Bert
Found the fix (or solution). The fix was very simple just adjust the clutch rod to the fork out about 2 1/2". Here is where I went wrong. I was thinking that with a new clutch the adjustable rod should be very minimal, however that is completely wrong. The fork needs to be put under a good bit of tension. Once I screwed the adjustable rod out it created a pivot for the clutch to work. Just wanted to give feedback on the fix.
rsh1966
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which verifies what ND tells me (18 7/8").
