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I have a 1984 Econoline with a 351 with auto trans.
Going down the road after warm-up the van will stumble & stall at any speed. However, when I pull to the side of the road and put it in park it will run smooth and accelerate from 800 rpm up to 2200 rpm without a miss.
New fuel tank, new fuel pump, fresh fuel and just tuned it up.
It was my understanding that the Ford Truck Enthusiast forums were to assist Ford truck and van owners in the best use, maintenance and improvement of the Ford truck or van that they own. This would include member assistance concerning operational issues that affect the running or performance of the truck or van of a forum member.
I didn't realize it was a platform for criticizing a member for trying to get assistance for a problem with their Ford truck or van by making smart remarks. I was not aware that this forum had a special way to ask for assistance.
Since that seems to be the case, I will refrain from using this forum for any information I need or any comments that may assist another forum member.
And I will let the moderators of this site know how well their site is working.
Don't over react. He is probably just trying to have some fun.
Ran into a similar problem. Engine had no power when in gear. Idle was erratic and stumbled when put in gear and wanted to kill. But would idle decent and rev up when in neutral. Seems like a major mechanical problem. But it was only a vacuum leak. You have to find it. Could be internal in the Carburetor. Gasket torn. Could be external on the Carburetor. Spray some Starting Fluid around the Carburetor while it is running and see if the RPMs rise. Check your vacuum lines and ports that are sealed off. Could be your check valve on your Brake Booster. Mine was a Vacuum Leak inside the Brake Booster. To see if it is a Vacuum Leak, take a Vacuum Check at the Manifold Vacuum Port on the driver's side with the engine at low regular idle. If you have a low reading and the needle is bouncing then you have a Vacuum Leak. Plug off the different lines one at a time and take a new reading. If the reading goes back to normal then you have isolated it.
Dang Mjac167, the brake booster is the only one I didn't check. I sprayed around the base of the carb and plugged all the other vac. lines. I'll try that one and hope it takes care of it. Thanks man for the help on this. I'll update you once I find out the problem.
Like I said,the simplest way to see if you have a vacuum leak is to take a vacuum reading at the Manifold Vacuum Port on the Driver Side of the Carburetor in the front with the Engine warmed up and at regular low idle. If the Vacuum Reading is Low and the Needle is Bouncing, you have a Vacuum Leak. It is then a matter of finding it. Mozy on down to your local Harbor Freight Store and pick up a Vacuum Gauge/Fuel Presure Gauge. You can get one for a little over $13 and is pretty useful to have.If it is the Brake Booster let me know and I will tell you about the deal I was able to get.
If the Vacuum Reading is Low and the Needle is Bouncing, you have a Vacuum Leak. It is then a matter of finding it.
With the engine running, spray a flammable liquid (like WD-40 or similar, but not starting fluid) around any place where there could be a vacuum leak. Use short bursts, and move along vacuum hoses, manifold gaskets, etc. Use some clear tubing if needed for tight spots. When you spray where the leak is, the liquid will be sucked in and you'll hear the RPM change.
Obviously, be very careful. You could start a fire. That said, this is a tried and proven method for fining a vacuum leak.
Now, about that meme.....
You posted your question on the 23rd. You received no response until the 28th when I posted. That's 5 days of being ignored. Was that good for you?
There is a direct cause and effect relationship between your thread title and the lack of response you got.
When you post on a forum - any forum - you are competing for attention. If your title gives the wrong message, you won't get the attention of the people who can help you. A title that states the problem clearly gets the best response. A title like yours often conveys someone who is lazy and expects to be spoon fed. People who have been around forums a while (who are usually the people who can help you) tend to go right past titles like yours. For one thing, they are scanning for places they can help. That's why they are here. So, people who are good at electrical problems tend to jump onto threads about electrical problems. People who are good with brakes jump on threads about brakes, and so on.
Who is attracted to a title that says nothing more than, "Help"? Social workers, maybe, or psychologists? Life guards? Certainly NOT people who know about Ford brake systems or differentials.
When you post a request for help on a forum you are asking for people to give their time and expertise to you. In return, you are expected to put in some effort in describing your problem in a way that makes it easy to help you. That starts with your thread title.
Now you can get your panties in a bunch, or you can learn a valuable lesson. Your choice.
Disagree. You are trying to detect a Vacuum Leak. Which can be minuscule. It does not take much to disrupt the Calibration of a Carburetor. So you use the most Volitile Spray possible, Starting Fluid. You want to Spray an area Once to eliminate it from consideration. Not keep going back to areas over and over again wondering if you missed something. Instant response. It is either there or it is not. It is assumed you would use short Bursts. The risk is minimal and it is Very Effective. When you are finished you know if you have any Vacuum Leaks. No Guess Work. Which is the whole point of Troubleshooting.
Well, if you know what you are doing, yes, but the volatility that makes it more effective also makes it more dangerous, so that has to be balanced against the advantages. I never recommend ether unless I know the person has got sense enough to use it safely.
That was a careful measured response. The whole purpose of Any procedure is to be effective. If you start off with a Dead Cold Engine,in a shaded area, with no wind,map out a plan of how you are going to spray then start the engine and Spray for the 2 or 3 minutes you need to spray, there is virtually no possibility of the Volitility of the Spray being of any Danger. And you will have effectively diagnosed whether you have a Vacuum Leak or not without any doubt. Operating down to the lowest common Denominator is Very Inneficient.
That was a careful measured response. The whole purpose of Any procedure is to be effective. If you start off with a Dead Cold Engine,in a shaded area, with no wind,map out a plan of how you are going to spray then start the engine and Spray for the 2 or 3 minutes you need to spray, there is virtually no possibility of the Volitility of the Spray being of any Danger. And you will have effectively diagnosed whether you have a Vacuum Leak or not without any doubt. Operating down to the lowest common Denominator is Very Inneficient.
I’ve learned a few things about “relationships “ on forums that apply here.
1. The meme was un-welcoming. Wirelessengineer could have been effective and yet less negative. But like Eminem; he said the thing we were all thinking. (Except the OP)
2. The thread title was annoying. Wirelessengineer was right. I usually intentionally skip threads like that. Similar: when someone goes to the V10 forum with a thread about wheels/suspension/etc.
3. The OP could have “rolled with it” and everyone involved would be better now.
4. Both guys are correct in their statements about finding vacuum leaks with a spray.
At first I thought Wirelessengineer went overboard with his second post. But his first post was a light hearted attempt to have some fun about perhaps a pet peeve. Then the OP escalated it with his second post and I told him not to over react it was probably all in fun. Then Wirelessengineer responded to the OP's second post escalating things further. But he was responding to the second post by OP. One thing led to another. Unfortunate.
I posted Help! in the THREAD TITLE by the way because I needed help and the following area below that is for explaining the problem. I didn't realize that this was an advertising forum. Very plain, simple and to the point.
And I don't see how the thread title could be annoying. I guess anyone who thinks that is as simple as the thread title.
Like I said in my previous post, I'll delete this from my bookmarks because I sure wouldn't want to hurt anyone's sensibilities about how a thread is titled.
Thanks to Mjac167 for being the first sane forum member to answer my post. I appreciate the help Mjac167. Maybe I'll catch you on one of the other Ford forums.
Last edited by twday; May 30, 2018 at 08:24 AM.
Reason: Add content
I did not mind the Post being Titled "Help" at all. You could have Capitalized it. It was the Exclamation Points. Two of them. I hate them SOBs. The must overused punctuation in existence. I refuse to use them.
You and Wirelessengineer kissing and making up would mean more to me then any thanks. After everything I have seen in this World you would think we could get along on a Truck Forum.
You want to hear something Hilarious? In a little column on the right at the beginning of the Thread it says," t w d a y has not made any friends yet." I was on the Floor.