)*&^)%^()^&...I dislike hijacked threads.... Glad to see someone has their truck running.

 

Yea still running like ****, undriveable but it is running so that is better than before new caps were installed.
I almost think stator but the computer fix made so much of a difference I cant see it being ECU failure and stator failure at same time. Think im going to order a ECU.

 

So I'm back at it. Summer to hot here to work on ****. There are like 100 different computers out there for this truck and I had no luck finding the exact one. Not even sure whitch automatic trans is in it.

So replaced the dizzy yesterday to take the bad stator our and it now runs and does not seem like a miss more of a unbalanced shake. The sound.of a missing cyc is no there but it sure shakes. I got video for you guys.

https://youtu.be/W7VMAF5JVpE

 

True, true. But that does not mean that your computer is not still a prime suspect in this. Why would it be mostly the #1 cylinder having trouble? Not sure, but maybe the experts can tell us whether the #1 cylinder fault and the PIP signal might have anything in common here.

Very possible, even with a new distributor. Can we measure the TFI distributors the same way we did the old Dura Spark units? With an ohm reading of between 400 and 800 ohms on a certain pair of wires?
If not, maybe there are other physical tests to make sure your new stuff is not giving you fits.

I know it's hard to imagine, but the real world seldom works the way we grew to expect. On a 26 year old vehicle, any number of faults could occur simultaneously. Not only that, but maybe they were concurrent and nobody noticed. Same as one headlight going out not being noticed until the second headlight burned out. Happens all the time.
But so does both headlights burning out at near the same time. Or more than one bulb, or more than one component in an ECU.

But here's where it gets really bad and drives us crazy. And that's the state of new parts on the market these days. You simply can't assume they're good anymore. So when you replace something you suspect being bad, you can't just take them off your list of things to suspect after the fact anymore either.
Even a new ECU might be bad, leading you to think that it can't be the computer since "the new one doesn't work either" seems logical. And it is logical, but not always true these days.
Same for new distributors, caps, wires and even plugs unfortunately.

I would I think. Judging by the external condition of your old one, it seems prudent. I just hope it fixes things. How much does a new one cost?
But going back to one of your early test results, what else would cause the noid light to stay dark on one cylinder? Bad wires? Bad injector? Bad something else? I think that list should be discussed to. Sorry I really don't know much about those things to give a good place to start over. Just seems to be funny that when it's running even after fixing the caps that your #1 is still not firing.
Would one single cylinder on your engine cause such a dramatic shaking? I'm not sure. Would not on most engines, but maybe Ford inline-sixes are sensitive to that kind of thing?

Good luck!

Paul

 

Thanks. I wish the computer was easy to find. I'd buy one but seems there are so many models that I cant find exact one.

Another thing is this motor is batch fired (1,3,5 then 2,4,6) so far as I can tell if its not firing 1 its no firing 3 or 5 either. and I cant see it how it even would run on 3 out of 6 cyc.

 

I can see it running like in your video if three cylinders are not firing. After all, that's a pretty rough running engine!
Never experienced a 3-out-of-6 engine myself(!) but seems like it would still run. But barely...

You could try removing each spark plug wire individually like in the old tests. If you pull 1,3,5 and nothing changes, you're on to something. If you pull 2 or 4 or 6 and the engine finally dies, you're definitely on to something.

Paul