1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

gas tank install

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Old 05-21-2018, 12:58 PM
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gas tank install




finally got around to fitting this mustang tank up. i cut about 3/4s off each side of the frame and it slide right in like it was made for it. so the question is should i just bolt it to the bottom of the frame? ( was thinking about rubber between the tank and frame and also using springs on the bolts. kinda like radiator mounts.) or should i make straps to support it?
 
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Old 05-21-2018, 01:21 PM
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I would use straps, where are you putting your fill tube.? Being a panel if you fill through the floor your going to have fumes inside which wouldn't be to pleasant..
 
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Old 05-21-2018, 05:23 PM
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i was thinking about straps myself. i was thinking with the frame flex the straps would have a little more give than the bolts would give.
i plan on running the fill spout out the drivers side rear fender. it should be just about the same height as the stock height.
 
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Old 05-21-2018, 08:20 PM
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John Niolon did a good write up on installing the Mustang tank, you might want to look at that too before going any farther just to give you another option..here's the link
https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/mu...ankarticle.htm
 
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Old 05-21-2018, 08:39 PM
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If you don't go with straps it might be a good idea to run a crossmember front and rear of the tank for that flange to set on. A full tank would be putting quite a bit of pressure on those 4 bolts along the frame side of things

Good luck
Bobby
 
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Old 05-21-2018, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jbfrmca
i was thinking about straps myself. i was thinking with the frame flex the straps would have a little more give than the bolts would give.
i plan on running the fill spout out the drivers side rear fender. it should be just about the same height as the stock height.
when the tank is mounted under the frame rails and the bed wood is bolted down you have about 2" between the bed wood and the filler neck... gonna have to be creative with the
hose routing and couplings... I went straight up thru the bed and had to tighten the hose clamps with a long screwdriver thru the roll pan opening where my trailer hitch is mounted... a bit tricky
plan ahead

john
 
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Old 05-21-2018, 09:30 PM
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Personally I think he has the wrong tank for a panel truck unless he relocates the filler tube....
 
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Old 05-21-2018, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 56panelford
John Niolon did a good write up on installing the Mustang tank, you might want to look at that too before going any farther just to give you another option..here's the link
https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/mu...ankarticle.htm
thanks for the link. i looked for it earlier and could not find it.
yes i will be adding cross members to support tank and stiffen up the frame a bit.
my thinking is a rubber 90 or 45 hose off of the tank then to a metal tube that will go to the drivers side then thru the fender. either that or it will go straight to the rear where i will make a spring loaded door to hide the cap.
i don't want it on the inside because of fumes and getting access to it when hauling stuff. more pics and questions when i progress.
 

Last edited by jbfrmca; 05-21-2018 at 11:10 PM. Reason: forgot some things
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Old 05-22-2018, 12:49 AM
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different tank, maybe?

It looks like you've already bought a new tank, but I just got this one: Tanks Inc. 49-52 Chevy

It is for a 49-52 Ch*^y car. It is side fill with vent. It fits easily between frame rails, and comes with straps. Mine is for EFI, but you can buy the standard tank for a carb cheaper. I have not installed it yet, but I told a friend who has a '48 F-1 about it, and he has installed one in his truck already. The filler neck comes out the rear of his DS fender. It was a realtively easy install.

It might be worth considering not using the Mustang tank if you can't get the filler out the side...I'm sure, however, it can be made to work with enough time and effort...Food for thought...
 
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Old 10-06-2018, 02:18 PM
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well after taking the summer off i decided to get back to this thing.
i got the strap kit from home depot. it's a hot water strap kit.
i doubled up the straps because i thought they were kinda thin.
i also cut two pieces of 3/8ths hose lengthwise to put on the edge of the frame rail to keep it from rubbing the tank. as you can see i used pipe insulation to go between the body and the tank. i also had to relocate both cross members. those rivits are no joke! i had the tank upside down to see where the straps would ride.i used a old fire hose between the straps and tank. i still have to refine it a bit and get access to the fill spout but this took me all day and wore me out so i called it quits for that day.


 
  #11  
Old 10-06-2018, 02:47 PM
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I agree with what was said earlier this summer, I think you are going to have the same problem my '76 F150 had and that is because of the small radius and tight 90 deg. you are going to need, it will be a bi*ch to fill. I wish you luck but be prepared to spend some time at the Filling station.

But it looks pretty solid in there, you have that going for you.
 
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Old 10-06-2018, 03:24 PM
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Nice job on those straps! Good idea.....probably saved a few $$ too.
 
  #13  
Old 10-06-2018, 10:29 PM
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Hey JB,
We have that same tank in our 1950 F1. Just a couple of thoughts..
Venting - We had a problem with venting - you could hearing the pressure build up.
We installed a rollover vent going to a salvage charcoal canister. You need the canister
to cut down on the fumes venting into your garage.

Sending Unit - I would think through your gauges & sending unit before you button up
your tank. They have to work on the same Ohms for Full & Empty. It sucks to change it once you fill
that tank up.

Good luck over there. I really like the range you get from that larger gas tank.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1
 
  #14  
Old 10-07-2018, 05:53 PM
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Looks good should work real well.
 
  #15  
Old 10-07-2018, 08:12 PM
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jbf ???

what is the tank rubbing against on the top side ??? or is it bolted to something around the flange ???

john
 
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