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ok,
My original compressor on my F150 92 finally gave out. I got a new(rebuilt compressor). I've bought a new accumulator. My question is. How do I go about flushing the system? And.....adding the oil in the correct location. I assume 8oz of oil is what the normal system has or uses??
Thanks for your reply Ultramagdan.
Well..... I flushed the system ( condenser, evaporator) with a flushing agent sold at discount auto parts. I blew air through the hoses to check if there was any clogging or crap. I got my compressor and sat it on the clutch. I poured 8oz of pag oil into the low side. Connected the hoses back to the compressor and mounted it. I then connected the hoses with new O-rings. Vacuumed the system for half an hour. I put a can of 134 and turned the system on. Compressor kicked off and on. I then gave it a second can. Compressor stayed on steady and the pressured leveled out at around 38 psi. System blows cold air on Norm and keeps the cabin cool. On high it really chills.
Now there is only one thing that is bothering me. It feels like the truck is a little hesitant when accelerating. I don't think it did this before. At least I never felt it. Could I of put too much oil?? Or.....reading the other reads. Might the oil I have put been too thick????
When I take off I can feel when my compressor kickes in, it drags you down a little, it's annoying so I turn it off when accelerating.
Mine is the original compressor, atleast I think it is. I have converted mine from R-12 to R-134A 3 years ago, but it still was a drag when the compressor kicked in even before the conversion.
Originally posted by HomerWinzlow Release the park brake?
LOL!!
This morning coming to work I noticed the hesitation turned out to be the cutch cycling off and on. So....either the pressure is a bit low and is causing it to cycle...or I might have a tiny leak. I'm hoping it's the pressure. I haven't had time to check it out yet. As I stated before. I left it at 38psi.
One thing I did notice on another tread. There are two different pressure switches. One for R134 and one for R12. My truck still has the original factory switch for R12. From reading....it appears that R134 is runned at a lower pressure? Could replacing the switch help this problem? I assume that the R134 switch engages the clutch at a lower pressure??? ANd I don't want to crank up the pressure for no reason. I feel the system is working fine and don't want to put more pressure on the compressor. It' s really shooting out some cold air.
I believe the same switch is used on either refrigerant. Your switch should be adjustable. Pull the wiring connector plug, and down in between the terminals, there is an adjustment screw.
I checked my system out and the pressure is the same as when I first gassed it up. So no leak( whew.....). It's a constant 38-39psi when the car is idling. Now....when I accelerate....the pressure goes down as the compressor sucks. So it shoots down to around 28psi. Thus....my cycling problems start. If I tweak the cycle switch...I guess I should be good to go.
Originally posted by 94van I believe the same switch is used on either refrigerant. Your switch should be adjustable. Pull the wiring connector plug, and down in between the terminals, there is an adjustment screw.
What's the best way to do this???? OR....I checked autozone and they have a switch for R134. It goes for 16.99.
Should I just swap it out and avoid playing with the original switch. It's been 11 years with the original. Can't complain.
I believe the R134 switch has a different diameter schrader valve on it. I think you would have to convert to an R134 accumulator or get an adaptor to fit it to the R12 accumulator.
The accumulator that I bought was bought at autozone and it says on the side " For use with R12 or R134. I'm pretty sure the switch will fit just fine. They even have a jpeg on their website for the switch. Looks pretty much the same.
ok.... One more question. The orifice tube. As I cruise this forum....I'm picking up alot fo stuff. From what you guys have been talking about the R134 system uses different pressure than the R12. I still have the blue tube in there. Should I change to the red tube and how does this affect the compressor? Does it make it work harder or makes the compressor work less?? I would assume that the red orifice lets more freon through than the blue. Thus, the compressor doesn't have to work as hard?????