start / stop pressure sensitive
#31
I would really like to see some facts of long term fuel and money savings. I know it would vary from driver to driver, but an average and potential numbers would be nice.
To help maximize what I believe would be the most effective way to get your "savings" (if any), and to try to prolong the life of the starter, driving with the auto stop/start has become an art for me.
If I'm approaching a traffic light that I know is going to change soon, I will brake a little sooner then coast to the light, rather than come to a complete stop for 10 seconds just for the engine to cut out and have to turn back on. If I see a light is turning red and staying red for 30 seconds or more, I will position myself so that when the engine shuts off, I wont have to move up a few feet which would fire up the engine again. Of course, familiarity with the traffic lights in your city helps. Today I went through the drive through at Tim Hortons to get a coffee and the line was moving slow. I was in line for about 6-8 minutes. So auto start/stop kicked on and *could've* been effective in saving me gas and releasing emissions into the air. Incidents like this *could* save money on gas but again I would like some numbers from a study.
To help maximize what I believe would be the most effective way to get your "savings" (if any), and to try to prolong the life of the starter, driving with the auto stop/start has become an art for me.
If I'm approaching a traffic light that I know is going to change soon, I will brake a little sooner then coast to the light, rather than come to a complete stop for 10 seconds just for the engine to cut out and have to turn back on. If I see a light is turning red and staying red for 30 seconds or more, I will position myself so that when the engine shuts off, I wont have to move up a few feet which would fire up the engine again. Of course, familiarity with the traffic lights in your city helps. Today I went through the drive through at Tim Hortons to get a coffee and the line was moving slow. I was in line for about 6-8 minutes. So auto start/stop kicked on and *could've* been effective in saving me gas and releasing emissions into the air. Incidents like this *could* save money on gas but again I would like some numbers from a study.
#32
Agree. That's why, for my set of calculations, I opted to use a savings value towards the low end of the quoted range.
Not a definitive answer, but I looked at Rock Auto for a stater for a 2018 F-150; for the 5.0 and the 3.5 eb they only list one starter each.
They were both Motorcraft, btw. $114 for the 3.5, $161 for the 5.0. I'm assuming these are rebuilts, but I didn't see that noted anywhere.
For reference I looked the 5.0 starter for a 2016 - it was less expensive by a little - $142.
Decide for yourself what that means.
Not a definitive answer, but I looked at Rock Auto for a stater for a 2018 F-150; for the 5.0 and the 3.5 eb they only list one starter each.
They were both Motorcraft, btw. $114 for the 3.5, $161 for the 5.0. I'm assuming these are rebuilts, but I didn't see that noted anywhere.
For reference I looked the 5.0 starter for a 2016 - it was less expensive by a little - $142.
Decide for yourself what that means.
#33
If your vehicle has the push button start I doubt any more electrical components are needed - it's nothing but software. Not sure about the keyed ignition, but probably not, just have to let the computer tap into the starter circuits?
#34
#35
I would really like to see some facts of long term fuel and money savings. I know it would vary from driver to driver, but an average and potential numbers would be nice.
To help maximize what I believe would be the most effective way to get your "savings" (if any), and to try to prolong the life of the starter, driving with the auto stop/start has become an art for me.
If I'm approaching a traffic light that I know is going to change soon, I will brake a little sooner then coast to the light, rather than come to a complete stop for 10 seconds just for the engine to cut out and have to turn back on. If I see a light is turning red and staying red for 30 seconds or more, I will position myself so that when the engine shuts off, I wont have to move up a few feet which would fire up the engine again. Of course, familiarity with the traffic lights in your city helps. Today I went through the drive through at Tim Hortons to get a coffee and the line was moving slow. I was in line for about 6-8 minutes. So auto start/stop kicked on and *could've* been effective in saving me gas and releasing emissions into the air. Incidents like this *could* save money on gas but again I would like some numbers from a study.
To help maximize what I believe would be the most effective way to get your "savings" (if any), and to try to prolong the life of the starter, driving with the auto stop/start has become an art for me.
If I'm approaching a traffic light that I know is going to change soon, I will brake a little sooner then coast to the light, rather than come to a complete stop for 10 seconds just for the engine to cut out and have to turn back on. If I see a light is turning red and staying red for 30 seconds or more, I will position myself so that when the engine shuts off, I wont have to move up a few feet which would fire up the engine again. Of course, familiarity with the traffic lights in your city helps. Today I went through the drive through at Tim Hortons to get a coffee and the line was moving slow. I was in line for about 6-8 minutes. So auto start/stop kicked on and *could've* been effective in saving me gas and releasing emissions into the air. Incidents like this *could* save money on gas but again I would like some numbers from a study.
#36
There's nothing unusual about the starts, just probably an increased number of them. So what would beefed up require? Maybe heavier bearings, an upgraded bendix, larger brushes? That's relatively easy, and probably would explain the few dollars more. THe component I'd most worry about would be the ring gear - definitely the most expensive part of the system to replace.
#37
Originally Posted by NewEnglandHerdsman
There's nothing unusual about the starts, just probably an increased number of them. So what would beefed up require? Maybe heavier bearings, an upgraded bendix, larger brushes? That's relatively easy, and probably would explain the few dollars more. THe component I'd most worry about would be the ring gear - definitely the most expensive part of the system to replace.
Typically abused starters just don't last, when they get hot the windings start roasting the insulation off, among other things. And that's OEM. The rebuilds are always a crapshoot these days. I assume that the starters here would need to be designed for a higher rated duty cycle. Same thing with starter solenoids or relays. You can buy continuous rated solenoids, but they cost ten times what the cheapies cost.
#38
I don't know what the duty cycle for an engine starter is exactly. Probably several minutes for every 10 seconds cranking. Normally an engine starts in just a split second. Then it's not needed again for a while. That's how a relatively small electric motor can crank a big heavy duty engine over in the first place without burning up, it's only required to do so for a very short while. Same thing with solenoids. But start wailing on them, or over and over, and they will soon fail. Maybe not the next day, but they are not going to be around long.
Typically abused starters just don't last, when they get hot the windings start roasting the insulation off, among other things. And that's OEM. The rebuilds are always a crapshoot these days. I assume that the starters here would need to be designed for a higher rated duty cycle. Same thing with starter solenoids or relays. You can buy continuous rated solenoids, but they cost ten times what the cheapies cost.
Typically abused starters just don't last, when they get hot the windings start roasting the insulation off, among other things. And that's OEM. The rebuilds are always a crapshoot these days. I assume that the starters here would need to be designed for a higher rated duty cycle. Same thing with starter solenoids or relays. You can buy continuous rated solenoids, but they cost ten times what the cheapies cost.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
NBraun
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
2
08-08-2014 10:14 AM
bigbird8195
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
6
02-04-2009 02:14 AM
ispurlock2000
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
10
07-07-2007 07:21 PM