Rust Damnit!
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,946
Likes: 62
From: in the woods of MA
'06 350 in MA. Salt area, plow truck, farm truck. My front axle housing is in danger of rusting through. The body? Over the wheel wells in the rear, bottom of the doors. Trans cooler lines, power steering lines, exhaust manifolds, skid plates, rear brake backing plates. Lost count of how many brake calipers. Frame is pretty flaky. 60K miles.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 813
Likes: 5
Wow!! I recently sold an 06' 350... No rust anywhere.. The truck was primarily located in Colorado, New Mexico and Texas.
The State or Federal Gov should reimburse residents in rust prone areas due to road salting. Don't hold your breath...
I do wash my truck after each snow in Colorado.. It's a pain.. but I do it...
You can buy undercoat in a spray can.. Might help some, and if it does anything, you might save a lot.
The State or Federal Gov should reimburse residents in rust prone areas due to road salting. Don't hold your breath...
I do wash my truck after each snow in Colorado.. It's a pain.. but I do it...
You can buy undercoat in a spray can.. Might help some, and if it does anything, you might save a lot.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,946
Likes: 62
From: in the woods of MA
Oh, and in the "rusted away parts" list I forgot to include the front drive shaft - the tube rusted to the point that it exploded while plowing.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 813
Likes: 5
Colorado uses Magnesium Chloride along with mixtures of sand and sand/salt mixture along with various liquid anti-icers and de-icers.
Thorough cleaning of your vehicle is a must. Colorado DOT states the liquid anti-icers are easier to clean off than traditional salt and will not harm paint (Not so good for under carriage).
They are mostly concerned with environment and cost savings. I take the truck to a manual car wash and high pressure spray underneath.
https://www.codot.gov/travel/winter-driving/faqs.html
Thorough cleaning of your vehicle is a must. Colorado DOT states the liquid anti-icers are easier to clean off than traditional salt and will not harm paint (Not so good for under carriage).
They are mostly concerned with environment and cost savings. I take the truck to a manual car wash and high pressure spray underneath.
https://www.codot.gov/travel/winter-driving/faqs.html
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,800
Likes: 52
From: Southern Colorado
When you are all done with any metal repair, be sure to squirt ATF or aerosol Lithium grease into the door seams (remove the door panels, and squirt from the inside). Once you have oil or grease in the seams, they will not rust again. You will have to wipe off the doors on occasion, as the oil weeps out, but it beats rust. After you treat the doors in this manner, shut them against a piece of newspaper to soak up the initial drips.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,946
Likes: 62
From: in the woods of MA
When you are all done with any metal repair, be sure to squirt ATF or aerosol Lithium grease into the door seams (remove the door panels, and squirt from the inside). Once you have oil or grease in the seams, they will not rust again. You will have to wipe off the doors on occasion, as the oil weeps out, but it beats rust. After you treat the doors in this manner, shut them against a piece of newspaper to soak up the initial drips.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,098
Likes: 136
I've been garaging my truck in the winter for years now. Buying used cars/suv's to drive in the winter and eat up the salty roads. My truck is bought and paid for so I'll probably get into the leasing game for my next vehicle instead of the used ones. Return them for a new one every 2-3 years and it's under warranty and no need to do any major work. Living in the rust belt that's the only thing that makes sense to me. Holding on to vehicles driven in salt is an absolute headache. Everything just gets destroyed and is a mess to work on. Fluid Film has helped me slow the process but I'm past the point of wanting to do all this work to keep a vehicle rust free outside of garaging it. I applaud those of you who go the distance to protect your vehicle but I feel it's just a losing game in the end when living in the rust belt. I know you get "nothing" form a lease besides a payment but you don't get much when trying to sell a rusted out vehicle.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,724
Likes: 4
From: Rogersville, TN
My 2000 has had major rust issues. Brake lines, differential covers, frame and bed rails. Never been off road, garage kept, never driven in winter, etc.
My 97 250 I had was driven off road weekly, all winter, washed once every couple of months and used like a work truck. Did not have one spot of rust when i sold it.
My bronco has rusted out tailgate, quarters, brake lines, etc and was driven on the same jobs as my 97.
My escape has been garage kept, no winter driving, etc and has some rust around the wheel well.
My 97 250 I had was driven off road weekly, all winter, washed once every couple of months and used like a work truck. Did not have one spot of rust when i sold it.
My bronco has rusted out tailgate, quarters, brake lines, etc and was driven on the same jobs as my 97.
My escape has been garage kept, no winter driving, etc and has some rust around the wheel well.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 134
Likes: 5
My last ford was a 2001 f350 tail gate started popping at the seals the first year and I am the guy who washes under side after every snow and salt application by the wonderful Penndot . The second year with my 2001 I had to POR15 the underside of the truck to keep the truck from rusting away .
I have not had a ford in 16yrs and just picked up a very low milage 2016 F450 was used in the salt a few times , aluminum has the powdered salt look and slight popping on the edges of the spot welds on the underside of the body .
I allready gave the under carriage a good few washing , I'm planing on doing the same thing I did with my 2001 and coating the frame and underside of the body with POR15 .
I have not had a ford in 16yrs and just picked up a very low milage 2016 F450 was used in the salt a few times , aluminum has the powdered salt look and slight popping on the edges of the spot welds on the underside of the body .
I allready gave the under carriage a good few washing , I'm planing on doing the same thing I did with my 2001 and coating the frame and underside of the body with POR15 .
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,279
Likes: 12
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,946
Likes: 62
From: in the woods of MA
Edit: Read a little more. This is body panels only (I should have realized that), i.e. the warranty is against rust-through in the body panels. There's a life time maximum of $5000 in warranty for aluminum vehicles.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 568
Likes: 2
I take specific offense to the fact that since Ford can't spend another $150 on a $40k+ rig, the owner has to spend that or more every year getting the underside of the truck lubed up like it's pr0n star.
it's not right. I hope the aluminum helps the sheet metal life, but that''s hardly the only rust points on these trucks.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,098
Likes: 136
The aluminum bodies haven't been around long enough but I'm curious to see what a truck looks like in 5 years here in the rust belt. Even better if it has a little paint damage that exposes the aluminum to the salt and other materials they use. Aluminum can corrode so for me the jury is still out until I can see a truck that has bathed in the salt. I've seen what can happen to some aluminum wheels when exposed to salt. The other thing is the non body components are still steel so those issues will still exist. But dealing with a body that has some pitting vs. full out flaking off rust is probably better.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,279
Likes: 12
I think the point you're missing is that you shouldn't have to do this. many many MANY other cars far cheaper than our rigs have a few pennies more of rust protection from the factory and have zero issues.
I take specific offense to the fact that since Ford can't spend another $150 on a $40k+ rig, the owner has to spend that or more every year getting the underside of the truck lubed up like it's pr0n star.
it's not right. I hope the aluminum helps the sheet metal life, but that''s hardly the only rust points on these trucks.
I take specific offense to the fact that since Ford can't spend another $150 on a $40k+ rig, the owner has to spend that or more every year getting the underside of the truck lubed up like it's pr0n star.
it's not right. I hope the aluminum helps the sheet metal life, but that''s hardly the only rust points on these trucks.
I'm dealing with a shi**y reality.