If you are talking about the carb in the picture you posted that is not a Holley DP but a vacuum secondary carb.
There should be a list number on the choke horn. If you take that number to Holley's site you should be able to find what the carb left the factory with, jet sizes, secondary spring color, secondary plate number, squirter size and accel pump size (most are 30cc) to name a few things.
Dave ----

 

 

I am not sure I agree with the above either. A 500 cfm 2bbl will have two large butterflies and venturi's while a 500-600cfm 4 barrel will have 4 smaller butterflies and smaller primary venturi. Theoretically you could get a better atomization from the smaller primaries on the 4bbl correct?

 

Yes and better MPG because of the small primaries if you keep your foot out of it.
Dave ----

 

What is your engine code in your VIN ?
8th Position/Digit

 

 

Ha! Know what feels like. My wheelbase doesn't match with what I measured. Most other things match up but don't really trust it only to get the title

 

 

From Gary's Garagemahal, I know that the floor pan is different depending on the size of cab; Standard, Supercab, and Crewcab, then Bronco pans. Seat Interchangeability - ???Gary's Garagemahal

How it would mount on other frames? I couldn't answer with certainty. My suspected cab swap might be typo from the factory. Forged Papers - Chronicles of "Dan" the 85 F-250

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by vjsimone
Gas mileage will be better than the 2 bbl, if you don't put your foot in it..
After looking closer at a Holley 670, the primaries and secondaries look to be the same size, therefor I retract my statement.
If it were a spread-bore design, I would say the mpg from the primaries would be better than a square bore style.....

I believe the 1985 302 had a 2150 2bbl, with about 240 to 350 CFM.

 

Any thoughts on the Holley 670? Too big? Seems to be a rather old model 670 on the truck and the choke assist is completely gone. Local guy will clean it up and rebuild it if I want to hold on to it, but I’m open to swapping it out.

 

You will get many opinions I'm sure, mine is; stick with the 670, rebuild if necessary... parts are available for it...
Not to big, and if it doesn't bog, you're good to go....

 

If you want to look up more information on that carb look up "Holley truck avenger carb" in your size.

Also that "choke assist" you say is gone is a manual choke and works with a cable. When cold you pull the "choke ****" out to close the choke, start the motor and as soon as it starts push it in about half way. Once the motor warms up push it in all the way. Now that was a quick how to and adjustments of how far in or out may be needed.

Know any carb put on a motor either factory or aftermarket need "tweaking".
Factory you can only "tweak" so far, idle mix & speed, maybe choke setting & speed. Far off maybe jet changes as you then need to open the carb up.
Aftermarket carbs, Holley's, are made to adjust everything. The list number on the carb can tell you what the carb left the factory with as a starting place.
Some times it just needs idle mix & speed and it is set. Other times everything needs to be tweaked from accel pump size & squirter, power valve, jets, secondary springs even air bleeds on some.

I would say if that carb ran well then rebuild it and use it. When it is rebuilt have him write down the PV, squirter size, jet size and color of spring so you know what it has so you know if needing tweaking how to go.
If you can't tell I like Holley's, have 3 cars with them on and 1 of them is a v2 carb, half a v4 like yours.
Dave ----