Tonight we learn that Dan isn't who he says he is...

Story so far
Dan has been getting some cosmetics done over the past week or so. New turn signal, side markers, taillights, side mirrors, and license plate mounts. Even dropped in the headlight relay harness. Not much happens when I don't have a need for Dan to help me out with. So I have been thinking about the future.

Camping trips. That has been on my mind for a while now, even before I got Dan. I new I wanted to do an engine build and some restomods. Original plans was for a built 300-6 like what I had in highschool but then really got to liking the possibilities of the 460 big block. So a tow / haul setup is destined for Dan. Started to run through things I would need to do to make this happen.

I wanted to be sure of what I had already; axle, gear ratio, springs, GCVW, etc. Snapped a photo of the door tag and went to decoding. I was happy to take Dan's word for it.



LIES!!
I had no reason not to believe what I decoded until I started to learn the nomenclature. I called Dan an extended cab but it's Super Cab in Ford speak. "Hmm, I didn't see super cab when decoding the door tag earlier." But moved on with a "Meh." I knew I needed to get a proper hitch and bumper as the current one is more for looks although it's not installed straight. Cruised the forum for towing related posts to see if I could spot any receiver suggestions and whatnot. That is when I saw more conflicting information.

In a thread a while back about Gary's Towing Adventure, he asked for opinions on different methods he could take. One of the replies made mention to 133" WB.

"Wait... Regular cab with a long bed is a 133" WB??" I have a Super Cab and a long bed (I just fit a full 8x4 sheet of plywood in the bed last week) and my door tag says 133 for the wheelbase. "WTH!?" So I run out and measure the WB myself and it comes to ~155". Going back to Gary's site, I make sure I decoded things correctly the first time. F26 is the series code in the VIN. Translates to 80/ Pickup F250 - - 4/W/D. I look more at the list to find what reads for Super Cab "X26 is what I should see, right?" This isn't make too much sense. How can the VIN be for a regular cab and 133" WB when I clearly see a Super Cab and 155" WB? "Explain this Dan. Right now!" "I registered you!" Apparently with an incorrect VIN. What else is incorrect?

Springs? Axle? Ratio? Engine code matches to the 460. I counted 5 leafs in the spring pack and that jives with HD springs I see listed in LMC catalog. Axle so far I know is an 8 bolt. The hub comes out quite far so I have to think that is the HD Ford 10.25. The ratio matches with what I have researched at 3.55. So how is it that those things match? Did PO or PPO piece together a truck and put the closest matching door tag on it??

Dan isn't saying a word
Here are some theories on how this can be:

1. Door tag is legitimate. Super Cab panels where purchased and welded on. Interior as well. Cab and bed dropped onto a 155" WB chassis.
2. Door tag is a fraud. Super Cab was bought as a transplant truck and parts moved over taking the door tag with it.
3. Door tag is a fraud. Super Cab panels where purchased and welded on. Interior as well. Chassis was cut up and extended.

#3 is easy to find out by looking at the chassis rails. What other identification locations are there? I read that Dana axles had a tag on the pumpkin. Is there a cab mounted VIN plate pop riveted somewhere? Stamp on the chassis?

To be honest not really that concerned. Maybe the DMV Fraud but I got it registered and a title coming in the mail so "don't ask, don't tell". I have plans for engine build and bodywork so at some point the body will come off the chassis and I can address any issues I discover then.

 

What is stamped on the metal VIN tag? It's riveted at the base of the windshield on the driver's side. Do the rivets look original or more on the hokey side?

 

Also, carefully inspect the front grill. Do you see anything like either of the following?:












If so, that would be one more clue indicating forged documentation.

 

Would a 1985 have a ram?
I can't remember what badge they came with back then.
Dave - - - -

 

11 digit or 17 digit VIN? Believe 80 was the last year for 11 digit VIN. May help understanding the history here, but I would bet on a cab transplant.

Also, somewhat unrelated, but I can't see those pics. Probably something site related, but I'm trying to figure out what is going on?

 

I used the forum's image uploader. Photo sharing sites are plastered with ads and crap that I just don't bother with. Try this image url https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...TVYSJp4mgXrMcD

Well the VIN plate matches (17 digits) and it does look like original pop rivets. Didn't see any Chevy or Ram logos anywhere Karl so I am good there.

If the tag specified a 133" WB but I measure out 155", doesn't that mean a different chassis as well? I don't see it cut up and extended anywhere. The SuperCab short bed WB is 138" from Wikipedia. Would Ford just say 133?

 

I don't think it would be the first time a label would be printed wrong.


I thought I seen posts there is a VIN stamped on the frame by one of the front shock towers?
I did not know of this when I had my frame stripped to look for it.
Dave ----

 

+1 on that. The other scenarios you mentioned are not very likely, such as panels welded on to turn a normal cab into a Super cab, frame stretch, etc. That's a LOT of work, and most guys are proudly lazy like me. The most plausible explanation is something happened to the original cab (rust damage, collision, etc.) and the expedient fix was to swap a good cab from the junkyard. The only hitch is this also brought over the VIN tags from the donor cab.

This leaves you with the slightly disconcerting premise that you may not really know how your truck was originally equipped, what year, GVW, etc. You may have a FrankenTruck.

For example, are you positive you have a 460? Maybe post up some engine pics and some forum gurus can help confirm what you have. The rear axle would be another good item to confirm. Transmission, too. I think the oil pan is a good identifier there.

Also, has the truck passed all the registration hurdles in Washington? I lived there for many years before moving to the Peoples' Republic of Oregon. It's been a while, but I remember Washington required some very stringent VIN inspections before you could register a vehicle. That may no longer be in effect, and if you've already got plates, I wouldn't breathe a word to the DMV. But if not registered and the old regime is still in power, you may have a big headache awaiting you.

 

Oh yes, I was in and out in 10mins plates in hand. 25 years is the cut off for emissions. 30 years qualifies you for collector plates (register it once for the rest of its life). Inspections only happen on lost titles but even then they just check some serial numbers to make sure it's not stolen. Had to do that with my old Subaru. With my 83 F150 I had to dea

Dark and raining now so I only have a shot focusing on the air cleaner. 5T8-CA (passenger) and 5T5-CA (driver) markings in the end of the hubs is all I have there at the moment regarding axles.



Like I mentioned earlier, I am not going to lose sleep over it all. Later on I will find out if I am swapping in parts or not to make it a capable tow rig.

 

Took one anyways. Surprised to see an Edelbrock on there. But never got into carburetors really so might be no big deal.

 

Always fun to look at somebody else's set up.

Running the Edlebrock I'm surprised not to see a pressure regulator. Common wisdom is the stock Ford 8 psi fuel pressure is too much for them and they can flood.

Stock plastic horseshoe coil connector? Who needs it when you can just slide the connectors directly onto the coil! But that's pretty much the same as the stock set up anyway, only without the plastic part. Also looks like the stock coil which is good. They're epoxy filled. New ones are oil filled and like to leak when they're mounted horizontally.

You might also keep an eye out for a fan shroud. Helps with cooling in the summer heat.

 

So I read that the 460s are identifiable by 7 bolts for the valve covers and top mounted coolant mouth on the intake. So I have a 460. lol. Pretty sure I did but started to get worried to be honest.

All this is from PO. So anything I should "finish" let me know. Be running this for another year probably or however long it takes me to build a 460 for towing come this spring.

 

Research tells me I have full floating 10.25 Sterling rear axle. Hinderance when it comes to looks with custom wheels but definitely desirable for heavy loads. Anyone have covers that fit or painted them?

 

American Racing makes deep center caps that fit the Sterling. I used them on mine and they fit well. Part number is 1515002L.

 

The VIN, TYPE/GVW (and the wheelbase) decode to a Regular Cab.

Compare the VIN on the Certification Label to the VIN on the title and the VIN tag to see if they all match, because some people replace damaged left doors with used doors.*

1FT = FoMoCo USA .. Ford Truck .. Complete Vehicle.

H = Class G Hydraulic Brakes, 8,000-8,500 lbs. GVWR

F26 = F250 Regular Cab 4WD Pickup.

L = 460 4V

2 = Check digit, FoMoCo use only.

F = 1985.

P = Twin Cities MN Assembly Plant.

B27900 = 1985 Numerical Sequence of Assembly, the trucks specific serial number.

TYPE/GVW F268 = F250 Regular Cab 4WD Pickup with 133" wheelbase, 8,600 lbs. Gross Vehicle Weight Rating.

*If the VIN series code on the title and VIN tag is X26 = F250 4WD Super Cab Pickup.