53 6cyl runs rough after a few
#1
05-12-2018, 11:40 PM
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53 6cyl runs rough after a few
Hey all, I've got a 53 with straight 6 3 on the tree. I've reworked the whole truck and added Dakota digital gauges. My question/problem I'm having. Towards the end of the year last year seamed like she was starting to run a little rough. (I only drive it around the neighbor hood as it's still a project). We moved, and now I went to start her up for the first time this year and started on 2nd crank (cool). Although it was idealistic bf from me for 10 min or so, it started to smoke like it typically does out the exhaust. I shut her off and came back a few minutes later start up and now it won't ideal right. Wants to die. And will. And as I give it throttle it's like it has a miss. And kind of falls on her face and starts to spit and sputter. I live in middle TN. And of course nobody around here that I have found will even attempt to fool with it. I'm guessing because techs can't plug their laptop into it ha ha. I'm so close to being able to drive her on the road often. Until this now. Any ideas?? Thanks in advance!
#2
05-13-2018, 06:42 AM
Logistics Pro
I'm no expert for sure, but we do have the same engine. The real experts will be along shortly. You mention difficulty keeping your engine running. That sounds like a carburetor problem. I rebuilt my carb several times over the past several years as a first response to my engine not running properly. Carburetors like ours are pretty simple and even a "white collar" kind of guy like me was able to do it. A misfire could be plugs or wires or maybe the coil or condenser. Excessive smoking could be a sign of worn rings and low compression. Good luck with your project--show us some pictures and tells us a little about your truck.
Jim
Jim
#3
05-13-2018, 06:59 AM
#4
05-13-2018, 08:02 AM
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#5
05-13-2018, 05:44 PM
Pull your spark plugs out and have a look at their condition .
See if they are oily , and if you have a miss one plug may look different in condition to the rest .
The plugs may give you an idea which cylinder or cylinders are causing the trouble .
Also it would maybe be a good idea to do a compression test on the motor .
See if they are oily , and if you have a miss one plug may look different in condition to the rest .
The plugs may give you an idea which cylinder or cylinders are causing the trouble .
Also it would maybe be a good idea to do a compression test on the motor .
#6
05-13-2018, 08:01 PM
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Pull your spark plugs out and have a look at their condition .
See if they are oily , and if you have a miss one plug may look different in condition to the rest .
The plugs may give you an idea which cylinder or cylinders are causing the trouble .
Also it would maybe be a good idea to do a compression test on the motor .
See if they are oily , and if you have a miss one plug may look different in condition to the rest .
The plugs may give you an idea which cylinder or cylinders are causing the trouble .
Also it would maybe be a good idea to do a compression test on the motor .
#7
05-13-2018, 08:14 PM
Is this an engine that has sat for a number of years before being brought back to life ?
If so try cleaning the plugs up and running it a few more times bringing it up to a good running temperature .
It may have stuck rings from sitting , also check oil level and make sure it's not overfull .
It could also just be dry or cracked valve stem seals .
I have also seen engines suck oil in through the pcv system , but i'm not sure the early 6's had a pcv system ?
If so try cleaning the plugs up and running it a few more times bringing it up to a good running temperature .
It may have stuck rings from sitting , also check oil level and make sure it's not overfull .
It could also just be dry or cracked valve stem seals .
I have also seen engines suck oil in through the pcv system , but i'm not sure the early 6's had a pcv system ?
Last edited by seaves46; 05-13-2018 at 08:16 PM. Reason: more info given
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#8
05-13-2018, 08:19 PM
I would throw a new hotter set of plugs in it and let it run. Get it up to normal temp before shutting it down.
The hotter plugs should help burn off the oil and keep from fouling ..... longer.
Now this oil on the plugs. It could be from bad rings, valve guides and or valve seals.
Now running it longer should help burn the oil off. Driving the truck should flex the piston rings if stuck and hope they seal better if they are the cause.
Dave ----
The hotter plugs should help burn off the oil and keep from fouling ..... longer.
Now this oil on the plugs. It could be from bad rings, valve guides and or valve seals.
Now running it longer should help burn the oil off. Driving the truck should flex the piston rings if stuck and hope they seal better if they are the cause.
Dave ----
#9
05-13-2018, 08:23 PM
Start from the beginning. The beginning beginning. The best way to do that is use the Ford shop manual.
Reproductions are available for not too much money. "MoToRs Repair Manual" from about 1950 or so, right in there, is another good one to have. They have the troubleshooting and diagnostic steps that anyone can follow, even a non-mechanic. Otherwise, you're just guessing.
And you're right, nobody these days can help you, and most of the people who could are probably are passed on or in a nursing home by now. The new guys at the checkout will sell you some air freshener if you can provide the VIN.
The very first thing every instruction, repair and diagnostic manual, book, or anything else will have you do is a cylinder compression test. Pg-1 Para-1. The symptoms you describe point to a couple different problems none of them particularly good. But, it's important to know exactly what you're looking at so can make informed decisions. Take your time, do it once, do it right.
Reproductions are available for not too much money. "MoToRs Repair Manual" from about 1950 or so, right in there, is another good one to have. They have the troubleshooting and diagnostic steps that anyone can follow, even a non-mechanic. Otherwise, you're just guessing.
And you're right, nobody these days can help you, and most of the people who could are probably are passed on or in a nursing home by now. The new guys at the checkout will sell you some air freshener if you can provide the VIN.
The very first thing every instruction, repair and diagnostic manual, book, or anything else will have you do is a cylinder compression test. Pg-1 Para-1. The symptoms you describe point to a couple different problems none of them particularly good. But, it's important to know exactly what you're looking at so can make informed decisions. Take your time, do it once, do it right.
#10
05-13-2018, 08:28 PM
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Thanks for the info on all party's. Yes the truck did sit for many many years. From 91-2015ish. Since 2015 I go and start it up every few months.... but I really have never drove drove it.. mainly because it hasn't been road worthy. Now I have all the brakes done etc. but after 10 min. It starts acting up. I'm afraid to take it out on the road if it's going to act up. From what I read I also agree on the valve stems. Or guides whichever they're called. Only problem is I have no idea how to go about changing them. Also, what is the normal temp this truck should run at? I almost thought that maybe my thermostat is stuck? But around 145 degrees is when it starts running rough... if I recall, it topped out around 190... but that's when it would run fine for a while and not act up. I'm not brave enough to let it run that long acting weird..
#11
05-13-2018, 08:31 PM
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#12
05-13-2018, 08:31 PM
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The engine I have in my pickup sat for 16 years, compression was low, didn't sound so good when I got it started. I put a quart of transmission oil in the crankcase and half a can of Seafoam and drove it . It got better each time I started it. Ran it for 500 miles and changed out the oil and now the engine sounds good. At start up I get a puff of blue smoke and know the valve seals need replaced.. white smoke sounds like the head gasket might be leaking..
#14
05-13-2018, 08:37 PM
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#15
05-13-2018, 09:02 PM
Given the progressive nature of the problem I would start with a good cleaning of the cylinders. Remove the spark plugs and pour some top engine cleaner, many on the market all will work, to break down the carbon deposits on and around the pistons and rings. After the cylinders are cleaned run a compression test to see where you stand on each cylinder. Compression can be lost through the rings or through the valves so the next step is to pour some engine oil into each cylinder and then retest the compression. If the rings are not sealing then the compression should rise since the oil you added will help seal them. If the oil doesn't raise the compression, and assuming the compression is low, then you more than likely have leaking valve seats. The smoke can either come from oil getting past the rings or from worn valve seals. Good luck...