U-joint question
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Elder User
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U-joint question
I recently installed a Borgeson steering shaft, the u-joints were snug right outta the box, meaning I had to actually move them physically by hand to see any rotational movement on the u-joints axis, which is to be expected considering they're fresh u-joints full of fresh grease. But one side of one u-joint had more ease of movement, it would move under its own weight when held horizontally, unlike the others, but otherwise it was tight and not sloppy, it gave in to gravity when the others did not. Anything to be concerned about or am I overthinking things? I thought maybe it's loose tolerances or less grease? Anyways I went ahead and installed it and my wandering steering is much improved. Any opinions on if I should got a replacement u-joint or just fretting over nothing?
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Elder User
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I plan too! I would of never used it if it was excessively sloppy or had any noticeable play, but it was not as "tight" as the other three yokes on their axis so it raised an eyebrow of concern on my part. My OCD said send it back and get a replacement, but my impatience said just install it and stop sweating the small stuff....my impatience won out....we shall see what happens.
Moderator & parts slinger
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
A little tight beats a little loose in that dept, its a steering shaft u joint...not a drive shaft u joint. Relax and drive it, if you inspected it and all looks good.
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Elder User
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Thanks for the replies guys. I talked to a few "mechanic" buddies I know and they pretty much said the same thing as you guys.....after about 5min of use the u-joints will all be more "loose" to the touch if you had them in your hand, but after they're installed you just won't know it, Anyways I will keep an eye on it just in case.
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Taxachusetts
I just remembered a safety issue I had with the Borgenson steering shaft I got many years ago.... In their instructions they say NOT to use thread locker on the allen heads. Ok, I didn't. Put some beef on 'em and away I went - didn't like the idea, but these pencil pushing "engineers" should know, right? Haha. After oh, after about a month, I was making a right hand turn onto the main drag around here.....my right hand turn just kept on turning....Instead of a 90* turn, I made a 270* turn.....right up onto someones nice lawn.... I knew what it was....got out, tightened the set screws back up, went home and put locktite on those bad boys. No problems since.
Mebbe yours is better or different but if you have the allen head set screws, and their instructions say not to put locktight on 'em, DON'T YOU BELIEVE IT!!!
Mebbe yours is better or different but if you have the allen head set screws, and their instructions say not to put locktight on 'em, DON'T YOU BELIEVE IT!!!
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Elder User
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I just remembered a safety issue I had with the Borgenson steering shaft I got many years ago.... In their instructions they say NOT to use thread locker on the allen heads. Ok, I didn't. Put some beef on 'em and away I went - didn't like the idea, but these pencil pushing "engineers" should know, right? Haha. After oh, after about a month, I was making a right hand turn onto the main drag around here.....my right hand turn just kept on turning....Instead of a 90* turn, I made a 270* turn.....right up onto someones nice lawn.... I knew what it was....got out, tightened the set screws back up, went home and put locktite on those bad boys. No problems since.
Mebbe yours is better or different but if you have the allen head set screws, and their instructions say not to put locktight on 'em, DON'T YOU BELIEVE IT!!!
Mebbe yours is better or different but if you have the allen head set screws, and their instructions say not to put locktight on 'em, DON'T YOU BELIEVE IT!!!
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Taxachusetts
When I got the Borrgeson replacement I noticed how much it was akin to my (had been rusticating away) 79 Bronco's steering shaft Same design - one tube fits into another but the Bronco's shaft had a better "locking" or...positive stop device in its in/out shaft. Too bad it was not longer in length or I would have found a way to use it.
I tried to rebuild my original 79 4WD shaft ....got the U Joint ('cause it was toast), managed to get it in but couldn't for the life of me get the cylindrical shaft (coupler) over the steering box's shaft. I figured there wasn't enough play in the cylindrical part for all those years - - hence the U Joint going south.
That's when I went to Boogyson and had a wee bit of an adventure........hehe
And good for you to loctite them thar screws!!!
I tried to rebuild my original 79 4WD shaft ....got the U Joint ('cause it was toast), managed to get it in but couldn't for the life of me get the cylindrical shaft (coupler) over the steering box's shaft. I figured there wasn't enough play in the cylindrical part for all those years - - hence the U Joint going south.
That's when I went to Boogyson and had a wee bit of an adventure........hehe
And good for you to loctite them thar screws!!!
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
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From: San Jose, CA
We even include a packet of Locktite Blue with every shaft we sell. Even though we build the shaft and Locktite each of the set screws, there is always the two end units that leave our shop not tightened down. So a packet goes out with each one, along with instructions to definitely use it or lose it.
I'm never surprised when a manufacturer or reseller neglects to state the importance of this that or the other installation practice, but am totally shocked that they would have ever recommended specifically against using a thread locker!!!!!
I literally am shocked. You'd think that anyone making steering components in particular, especially when not a factory replacement clone, that they would be falling all over themselves to say at least "well ok, if you think you need it then go right ahead" or even "while we don't see the need, it sounds like a great idea!" in a pinch.
I know way too many people (well, only three, but that's three way too many!) who've lost steering shaft attachment after a very short time because they forgot to use the threadlocker.
Glad you brought it up. Always good to have a reminder.
Paul
I'm never surprised when a manufacturer or reseller neglects to state the importance of this that or the other installation practice, but am totally shocked that they would have ever recommended specifically against using a thread locker!!!!!
I literally am shocked. You'd think that anyone making steering components in particular, especially when not a factory replacement clone, that they would be falling all over themselves to say at least "well ok, if you think you need it then go right ahead" or even "while we don't see the need, it sounds like a great idea!" in a pinch.
I know way too many people (well, only three, but that's three way too many!) who've lost steering shaft attachment after a very short time because they forgot to use the threadlocker.
Glad you brought it up. Always good to have a reminder.
Paul
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Im sure they do face liability. And I don't know how they get away with it. Maybe because most of the joints don't end up on daily drivers. IDK?
Its a horrible design though...really bad.
Now on a race car...no problem. But a race car sees routine nut and bolt maintenance.
You never see this design on any OEM steering shaft...ever. At least I never have. That should tell you something.
Its a horrible design though...really bad.
Now on a race car...no problem. But a race car sees routine nut and bolt maintenance.
You never see this design on any OEM steering shaft...ever. At least I never have. That should tell you something.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,606
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From: San Jose, CA
Agree. But they filled a need with what they had, and apparently never pursued a more factory type mounting with their style of joint/yoke. Likely to fit more vehicles with fewer parts for the custom street rod crowd?
The one side interfacing with the collapsible shaft is not so bad, as it's a DD (double-D) interface with a dimple for the set screw to bite into. But the splined shafts that are on most boxes have this nice deep groove that would easily accept a cross bolt.
But you'd still have to Locktite the through bolt!
Flaming River has started offering (maybe has for awhile and I was not aware of it) joints/yokes with a split-clamp and through-bolt arrangement. Seems like a good idea.
Unfortunately I can't tell from the pics if the bolt has an interference fit into the groove of the shaft, or if it simply clamps the joint down on the shaft. And their information is usually very limited on the website.
Probably a YouTube video out there showing what we need to know.
All that said, when it comes down to it, if you've dimpled the right bits, turned the screws and jam nuts down tight, and used thread locker on all threaded fasteners, they've proven to be extremely reliable even without the through-bolt design.
Paul
The one side interfacing with the collapsible shaft is not so bad, as it's a DD (double-D) interface with a dimple for the set screw to bite into. But the splined shafts that are on most boxes have this nice deep groove that would easily accept a cross bolt.
But you'd still have to Locktite the through bolt!
Flaming River has started offering (maybe has for awhile and I was not aware of it) joints/yokes with a split-clamp and through-bolt arrangement. Seems like a good idea.
Unfortunately I can't tell from the pics if the bolt has an interference fit into the groove of the shaft, or if it simply clamps the joint down on the shaft. And their information is usually very limited on the website.
Probably a YouTube video out there showing what we need to know.
All that said, when it comes down to it, if you've dimpled the right bits, turned the screws and jam nuts down tight, and used thread locker on all threaded fasteners, they've proven to be extremely reliable even without the through-bolt design.
Paul
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Anyways....it's something I will definitely be keeping an eye one every time I am under the hood, almost daily lol.