Or it's just "dead" as in discharged. If you don't have a charger then maybe the they'll charge it for you to test. It has to be fully charged for testing anyway, so that's probably part of the service.
Do you have a volt-meter? Did you check the state of charge?

Excellent. And a good idea to verify those aspects of the old one.

Red tape is a start. But an even better solution, especially for that old one with the exposed contact point is heavy duty shrink tubing with sealant. Good stuff and a good idea for any battery cable frankly.
I actually like the store bought full crimp type like you have coming from the battery. The lugs could be improved, but it's hard to beat their crimp method. However, I always put some form of shrink tubing on the ends with the crimp. Slide one over that's just big enough, shrink it down and not only to you have a good connection, but now you have one that will stay good and resist corrosion for even longer.

Probably 70% of our trucks have that issue. Not sure if it's PO aggressiveness necessarily, or just the nature of the beast. Thin sheet metal, even with nicely stamped holes, is not always the longest lived thread method.
A larger screw is great if it works. I've had good luck, and some not so good luck doing that. But it's easier for future maintenance than a nut-n-bolt setup. However, if the larger screw won't hold, the nut-n-bolt is a winner.

Paul

 

Sorry, didn't see the last two posts before I replied.
This time though I think it was a forum issue. I clicked on the new page, so the new posts from 4 and 5 hours ago should have showed up clearly. When I hit quick-reply for mine, instead of the normal viewing of my post, it took me back to the top of the page and sat there.
When I scrolled down I saw your two posts, but not mine! So I hit send again (because I learned long ago to copy-n-paste before sending!) and now I see it.
So if mine shows up twice, that's what happened.

Forum-jabber over. Now back to our regularly scheduled battery talk...

Paul

 

 

10 and 12 volts is a huge swing for a car battery. Are you measuring during cranking, or?

Even a few tenths measurement is important. A fully charged sealed maintenance free battery at rest measures 12.80 volts at 77° F. 12.00 volts may not even be enough to crank over the starter in cold below zero weather. So we're really only talking just over half a volt between 100% and Dead.

 

 

OK. That's not a very good sign for the battery but I haven't been keeping up on this thread. Did you charge it up overnight?

 

 

I may have missed it but have you put a hot battery out of a running driving car in it and see what happens? 10-11 volts ain`t gonna cut it. Just trying to help.

 

 

You can rule out the solenoid by disconnecting the cable to the starter, and powering the "S" post to see if you hear it click. If it clicks, then you can connect a light bulb or volt meter to to the starter cable lug to verify that current is passing and that the circuit is closed.

 

Ok guys, went out tonight and tried things again. Still getting 12.4 on the battery and the cables.

When turning the key, with the OLD relay hooked up i get rapid clicks from the relay but truck still wont start and the dome light dims but does not go all the way off

When turning the key with the NEW relay hooked up I get a single loud click(clunk) sound but the truck wont start and the dome light goes off.

Still have not had the battery checked. I have no commitments after work tomorrow so hopefully that can be done then.

 

Ok....have you tried jumping the solenoid? If you've tried it before, disregard that question and the following description:
Jump a wire from the BATT (+) on the solenoid to the "S" terminal......she should at least turn over as long as you hold the jumper wire in place.
If that works, you can leave the key in RUN and jump her the same way again....she will start then......if all things are fine in Denmark..........

 

 

The engine *should* turn over for as long as you hold a jumper wire from the BATT (+) to the "S" solenoid terminal. The moment you let go (off either terminal) the engine will croak. ALL THIS IS DONE WITH THE KEY OFF.........


Absolutely, turn the key to RUN and jump the solenoid in the same fashion and if things are cool in Amsterdam, she'll run. Once she's running, you better relieve the jumper from its position.

Now go back and read post # 42. Dn't blame you for wanting to be precise.....

 

Hmmm That's a basic symptom of a battery not having the poop to turn over an engine. Not having enough juice to engage the solenoid's contacts to turn the starter.
You could by pass the solenoid altogether and put BATT voltage right to the starter wire terminal and see what happens. If the starter doesn't at least fart a few times, check the cables for resistance...... you might have to pull the starter and bench test it......and make sure the battery has a full charge...

Have you had a chance to get the battery load tested yet?