Noisey Valves - Need advice from FE Experts!

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  #46  
Old 09-27-2018, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by KULTULZ
No use being sorry, I feel your pain.

Listen, you cannot just simply throw differing push-rod lengths at it and expect correct results. FORD service push-rods came in STD., .030 U/S, .060 O/S and .060 U/S lengths to adjust a non-adjustable FE valve-train for service. This approach will determine tappet plunger depth/proper pre-load.

Now with an aftermarket performance cam to come to terms, you may have to use an adjustable push-rod(s) to determine correct lash (and order the lengths needed from a cam manufacturer). The tappet has to be collapsed to measure the lash and what length push-rod you will need to correct the lash.

And to throw a little more confusion to the discussion, you also need to study CORRECT VALVE-TRAIN GEOMETRY. If you bought a HI-PO CAM, you should be able to enjoy it.

I think all the correct procedures recommended by Ford and Lunati were followed. But I will verify that the factory valve clearance of .1-.2 is being maintained.

My main issue right now is the #8 exhaust valve with seem to have excess friction.
I am going to the shop that build my engine today to talk to them about it...stay tuned!
 
  #47  
Old 09-27-2018, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by VitaminC
I think all the correct procedures recommended by Ford and Lunati were followed. But I will verify that the factory valve clearance of .1-.2 is being maintained.

My main issue right now is the #8 exhaust valve with seem to have excess friction.
I am going to the shop that build my engine today to talk to them about it...stay tuned!
For hydraulics, there is no lash setting. And certainly not .20 worth. That's almost a quarter inch. one tenth would also be far in excess of where it would be on a solid lifter cam.
 
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Old 09-27-2018, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by baddad457
For hydraulics, there is no lash setting. And certainly not .20 worth. That's almost a quarter inch. one tenth would also be far in excess of where it would be on a solid lifter cam.
I agree. I have never read of setting the lash on hydraulic versions until a few posts ago...but the procedure does exist...but to your point the range is huge, seems like it is only intended to get your push rod length in a safe range

 
  #49  
Old 09-27-2018, 11:42 AM
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So I talked with the the shop who built my engine today. They looked at the pictures and agreed that something was wrong with the valve. We agreed that if I pulled the head they will cover all the parts, gaskets, and labor for the repairs.

Stay tuned
 
  #50  
Old 09-27-2018, 05:10 PM
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Good to hear.
 
  #51  
Old 09-27-2018, 09:10 PM
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You also might want to have them explain why the 'only' shim and it's connection with the only problem value. I would think its all related. Don't forget to ask about a new guide. Just a thought.
 
  #52  
Old 10-04-2018, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by The Masked Rider
You also might want to have them explain why the 'only' shim and it's connection with the only problem value. I would think its all related. Don't forget to ask about a new guide. Just a thought.
My guess, it probably should have had a seat put in. He excessively ground the worn seat till the valve was sunk so far that it needed a shim to get the right spring installed height.
 
  #53  
Old 10-04-2018, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by KULTULZ
... unbelievable ...

They assembled an engine (with a performance cam even) without setting the valve-train? And gave you three sets of differing push-rod lengths to fine-tune the engine?

I'm flabbergasted. I don't know what to say...
How is it that there is only one valve spring shim installed? Is it typical for heads to be rebuilt, to be setup, and the valve spring assembled height to be correct spec on 15 out of 16 valves? BS
 
  #54  
Old 10-04-2018, 09:28 PM
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I think there are other shims. Shims are not uncommon on rebuilt heads.

or are you saying they Fuged that valve and tried to band aid it?
 
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Old 10-07-2018, 07:17 PM
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Quick Update

Got all the parts back from the shop. They went through the whole head and replaced two valves.
Got it mostly reassembled...hopefully I will have it all back together by mid this week.

Anyway...Pictures!





 
  #56  
Old 10-07-2018, 07:25 PM
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Lookin' good

Nice truck, BTW.
 
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Old 10-07-2018, 07:35 PM
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Glade they fixed it.
Personaly looking at the first photo I wish they had replaced that front exhaust valve as well, it looks like it's sunk down pretty low.
Cheater! using a engine lift to install the intake, how dare you.
 
  #58  
Old 10-07-2018, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Destroked 450
Glade they fixed it.
Personaly looking at the first photo I wish they had replaced that front exhaust valve as well, it looks like it's sunk down pretty low.
Cheater! using a engine lift to install the intake, how dare you.
Like I said in post 52, they should have put seats in. The valve train geometry, pushrod length, lifter preload, spring installed height as well as air flow is effected by sinking valves like that. I would say now is the time to learn how to check for pushrod length, it isn't that hard. All you need is a set of light checking springs and an adjustable pushrod to check for the right length. Just because lifter preload is ok does not mean pushrod length is right. I would want to see what the valve tip sweep across the valve stem looks like now and correct it if needed. The sweep could be so far off now with the valve sunk that the first time you lean on it the rocker tip could just barely go off the edge of the valve tip, bump the retainer and presto....... the keepers go flying leaving the valve to drop. Push rod length is very important.
 
  #59  
Old 10-09-2018, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Destroked 450
Glade they fixed it.
Cheater! using a engine lift to install the intake, how dare you.
Haha! The hardest part of installing the intake was training my wife to use the cherry picker, while it guided her home.
 
  #60  
Old 10-09-2018, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by mark a.
Like I said in post 52, they should have put seats in. The valve train geometry, pushrod length, lifter preload, spring installed height as well as air flow is effected by sinking valves like that. I would say now is the time to learn how to check for pushrod length, it isn't that hard. All you need is a set of light checking springs and an adjustable pushrod to check for the right length. Just because lifter preload is ok does not mean pushrod length is right. I would want to see what the valve tip sweep across the valve stem looks like now and correct it if needed. The sweep could be so far off now with the valve sunk that the first time you lean on it the rocker tip could just barely go off the edge of the valve tip, bump the retainer and presto....... the keepers go flying leaving the valve to drop. Push rod length is very important.
i checked the length and the rockers make a nice clean mark right across the middle top of the valves. So I believe they are correct.
 


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