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Noisey Valves - Need advice from FE Experts!

  #1  
Old 05-04-2018, 01:01 PM
VitaminC
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Noisey Valves - Need advice from FE Experts!

Earlier this year I dropped in a freshly rebuilt 390 into my truck.
A local speed shop did the work and from what I can tell they did a good job. It was a complete rebuild everything was machined and brought into factory specs.
Engine has a Lunati Voodoo Cam:
  • Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 256/262
  • Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 213/219
  • Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .524/.540
  • LSA/ICL: 112/108
When I first got it running it started up and ran pretty quiet, smooth idle, excellent vacuume, no overheating...pretty good.

But after I put some miles on the truck it started to develop a righteous ticking noise from top of the engine.
No valves were sticking so,I took it back to the shop and they ordered me a set of .060ths longer pushrods, which I installed.

This made the truck idle terrible, I had to advance the timing 4 degrees just to keep it from stalling out. And the valve ticking was still there, just as bad. The truck seemed to have more power overall but the idle was so bad that I had to put the original shorter pushrods back in.

I did the stethoscope trick to try and narrow down where the noise was coming from, and it seems to be coming from the contact between the rocker and the valve.

Has anyone had a similar problem? Is there any chance that I could be doing some damage to my engine by driving it?
 
  #2  
Old 05-04-2018, 10:25 PM
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Did you follow the proper cam break in procedure running the engine for 20 minutes at 1800-2000 rpm before letting it idle.
Did they install the correct valve springs for that Lunati cam.
 
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Old 05-04-2018, 11:49 PM
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I would guess worn cam. I only run diesel oil in my flat tappet engines. In fact, I run diesel oil in every engine I own. The newer oil does not have enough wear additives for flat tappet cams.

A friend of mine, who is a dealership mechanic, ended up replacing two cams in an older Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 360 because he would not believe me about the difference between regular oil and diesel oil.

I run Delo XLE 10/30 in my Grand Marquis 4.6, and the same in my Hundai with a 2.4. I use Delo or Rotella 15/40 in my Ford 4.9 and Dodge Ram V-10, because of the miles on them. The inside of all the engines look like new when looking through the oil filler cap.
 
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Old 05-05-2018, 01:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Destroked 450 View Post
Did you follow the proper cam break in procedure running the engine for 20 minutes at 1800-2000 rpm before letting it idle.
Did they install the correct valve springs for that Lunati cam.
Yes I did the proper procedure. I will ask the shop about the springs.
 
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Old 05-05-2018, 07:05 AM
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Reading some info from cam supplier and it says:
“if the valve preload is too little then the engine will be noisy. If it is too much the engine will have a rough idle.” They recommend to increase pushrods length by .03 if you have excessive noise.
So the .06 over pushrods might be too long. I am going to see if the builder can get me a set of .03 over to try out.
 
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Old 05-05-2018, 08:54 AM
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What oil are you using?
 
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Old 05-05-2018, 09:14 AM
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Royal purple 10w30 break in oil
 
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Old 05-05-2018, 10:46 AM
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A couple of things to think about.

Pull the oil filter NOW - cut it open and look for metal. Even very fine dust-like particles. If the cam is going south, the metal will circulate through the engine ruining every bearing. DO EEET NOW! Yes, driving it will make things worse.

Unless the shop did a super job on the valve job and got all the valve stems the exact same height, and all the lifters are perfect, changing the lengths of all the pushrods at once might make some valves stay off their seats, but others are actually better. Check each valve lash and adjust as necessary.
 
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Old 05-05-2018, 01:07 PM
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Ok cut open the filter and here is what it looked like. I could see a few random specs of metal, but I think it was pretty normal to have a little bit from the break in.
I didn't notice any in the oil at all.
What do you think?

Also the engine shop is going to order me a set of push rods in what should be the correct length. Hopefully that will help.
 
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Old 05-05-2018, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by VitaminC View Post
Ok cut open the filter and here is what it looked like. I could see a few random specs of metal, but I think it was pretty normal to have a little bit from the break in.
I didn't notice any in the oil at all.
What do you think?

Also the engine shop is going to order me a set of push rods in what should be the correct length. Hopefully that will help.
Filter looks normal to me.
 
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Old 05-05-2018, 01:24 PM
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Agreed, that looks perfectly fine.

When my cam went on my first 390 build, the metal was everywhere.

Phew!

But yeah, I think you need to figure out the valve lash correctly, and you'll be good.
 
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Old 05-05-2018, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Krewat View Post
Agreed, that looks perfectly fine.

When my cam went on my first 390 build, the metal was everywhere.

Phew!

But yeah, I think you need to figure out the valve lash correctly, and you'll be good.
Yeah...big time Phew! Thanks for the help...Ill post some updated once the new pushrods come in.
 
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Old 05-05-2018, 09:06 PM
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If you haven't ordered the push rods yet, you might want to do a couple things first.
1. Remove the rocker assembly on both sides, keeping in mind which side each rocker assembly came from.
2. Take a straight edge ruler and lay it across all the valve stem ends. This will tell you a lot about the value job you got. They should ALL be touching the straight edge the same. If they are NOT, than the machinist did not do a good job or some of your valve seats have sunk. In either case, your push rods may need to be different lengths or you might need to go to adjustable rockers. Let's hope this is not the case. Cost will start to add up fast.
3.Get a push rod checker.
 
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Old 05-06-2018, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by The Masked Rider View Post
If you haven't ordered the push rods yet, you might want to do a couple things first.
1. Remove the rocker assembly on both sides, keeping in mind which side each rocker assembly came from.
2. Take a straight edge ruler and lay it across all the valve stem ends. This will tell you a lot about the value job you got. They should ALL be touching the straight edge the same. If they are NOT, than the machinist did not do a good job or some of your valve seats have sunk. In either case, your valve stems may need to be different lengths. Let's hope this is not the cash
3.Get a push rod checker.
If I get some time ill check this tomorrow.
Thanks.
 
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Old 05-09-2018, 09:32 AM
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X2 on the pushrod checker. Each pushrod should be checked for length.
 

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