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Thanks, AB. I emailed them and am keeping my fingers crossed. I think the only issue I have with my setup is that the stop pin spring (9A458) has snapped. I'm not sure if the thermostatic spring works - but I might not have helped much spraying it with VHT paint.
And correct me if I'm wrong here, but if I'm just running a manual choke, I can leave that valve wide open and limp around until I can find a replacement part, right?
The heat riser doesn't really have much to do with the choke, so manual or automatic choke won't make any difference.
It supplies heat to the bottom of the intake for better fuel atomization (there's a sticky at the top of the forum that explains it pretty well).
In the mean time, I'd personally wire it closed instead of open. When it's closed, you'll probably experience a few bogs when accelerating from a stop, but nothing major. Stuck open can result in a bit more annoying things like vapor lock.
The heat riser makes sure the carb and intake manifold plenum are warm when you're starting a cold engine, right? If that heat isn't there, it makes the fuel/air mixture lean and causes issues, but a manual choke will let you make that mixture a little more rich until things warm up. Unless I'm missing some other piece of puzzle - which is fully possible... probable even.
I was told by a mechanic last year that he'd probably just tack it closed and leave it at that. I'm all for making things simpler, but I'd also like to make sure they're efficient.
Yes, you could use the manual choke to compensate, but you could also do the same by running a richer jet in the carb. But that doesn't mean the choke and heat riser work in conjunction.
Also, the heat riser is more than just for a cold engine. With aftermarket intakes, many people put a heating plate on the bottom of the intake that uses coolant. Since the coolant has to warm up, these often don't even work until the engine is warmed up. The heat source to the underside of the intake also helps provide a stable temperature for the carb. Since oxygen content increases and decreases with temperature, your carb can go rich or lean depending (since the gas through the jet doesn't change). So, if you can always keep the carb the same temp, then your fuel mixture doesn't keep changing. That's what the heat riser does (which is quite different than the choke).
Yeah, you can just close it, and you probably won't notice THAT big of a deal, but it really does serve a purpose, and if you can get it working, all the better.
Thanks, ND. I would gladly settle for just some of the individual pieces, if they're still kicking around. I think the thermostatic spring and stop pin spring might be all I need to bring it back to life. But I'd also gladly buy the all the pieces in a kit, if need be.
The kit I linked says it's for a 1965-1986 300 (and the parts look like the setup I pulled out of my exhaust manifold).
But I don't know if you can get individual pieces.
So, if you can get it from then, you might just need to use the pieces from it to get yours functional again (and then keep the rest for spares).
Thanks, ND. I would gladly settle for just some of the individual pieces, if they're still kicking around. I think the thermostatic spring and stop pin spring might be all I need to bring it back to life. But I'd also gladly buy the all the pieces in a kit, if need be.
Click on the pic twice to enlarge it, then post the basic part numbers you want. I'll see if anyone has them. 9463 not available.
While I've got you fellas and we're talking about exhausts, what is that **** on the bottom and canister on the top of the exhaust manifold for? I can't find anything about it in the service manual. Is that for the choke heat tube?
While I've got you fellas and we're talking about exhausts, what is that **** on the bottom and canister on the top of the exhaust manifold for? I can't find anything about it in the service manual. Is that for the choke heat tube?
Yes, that is the inlet for the choke heat tube. Behind is is some wire mesh filter like a Brillo pad to prevent debris from entering the choke cap. The tube up top is pressed in. You can fashion a facsimile from a piece of 1/4" brake line. Use a fiberglass sock over it if you can get one as it greatly enhances the effectiveness of the heat tube.
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As always, thanks for the knowledge!
