Conversion to 6.4 Starter
Conversion to 6.4 Starter
I believe my OEM starter on my 2003 6.0 is nearing the end of its life. The posts I have read indicate that some have upgraded to a 6.4 starter. Is this a simple swap out, i.e. do the bolt holes match up, do the original cables reach the new solenoid, are the threads compatible? I notice the 6.4 doesn't seem to have a shaft on the DB Electrical site while the 6.0 does. Is there any downside to this upgrade. Thanks for your thoughts.
Just for the 6.7. It uses the same size bolt as the other two locations, so there is some clearance in the bell-housing pathway through. It's more of a precautionary move in case there is some movement if one of the other screws loosened.
I believe my OEM starter on my 2003 6.0 is nearing the end of its life. The posts I have read indicate that some have upgraded to a 6.4 starter. Is this a simple swap out, i.e. do the bolt holes match up, do the original cables reach the new solenoid, are the threads compatible? I notice the 6.4 doesn't seem to have a shaft on the DB Electrical site while the 6.0 does. Is there any downside to this upgrade. Thanks for your thoughts.
I did keep the old one in case this one craps out, I can spend some time finding another used one if I have to.
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Ed
I got a new one from DB electrical for $83 shipped, no core charge. It may be a china bomb but it seems to be working ok for now. The 6.4 is a direct fit, no mods needed, everything fits normally.
The difference is great. It spins over much faster.
The difference is great. It spins over much faster.
It does spin faster, but you will have a higher amp draw which will cause a deeper drop in voltage at the moment of engagement and spin. With worn batteries in coldest weather, you’ll need to replace batteries earlier by a few months. Starting in shorter time is not a neutralizing factor, it’s about amp draw. And the easiest way to explain this is you might see 11.8v during the 200-100 amp draw during wait to start, 10.8v during starter engagement when adding 400 additional amps to the draw. Amps matters which was what that video was about.
It all depends on your threshold of lowest volts during starting and this is just advice to not do the change blindly.
It all depends on your threshold of lowest volts during starting and this is just advice to not do the change blindly.
It does spin faster, but you will have a higher amp draw which will cause a deeper drop in voltage at the moment of engagement and spin. With worn batteries in coldest weather, you’ll need to replace batteries earlier by a few months. Starting in shorter time is not a neutralizing factor, it’s about amp draw. And the easiest way to explain this is you might see 11.8v during the 200-100 amp draw during wait to start, 10.8v during starter engagement when adding 400 additional amps to the draw. Amps matters which was what that video was about.
It all depends on your threshold of lowest volts during starting and this is just advice to not do the change blindly.
It all depends on your threshold of lowest volts during starting and this is just advice to not do the change blindly.












