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I believe my OEM starter on my 2003 6.0 is nearing the end of its life. The posts I have read indicate that some have upgraded to a 6.4 starter. Is this a simple swap out, i.e. do the bolt holes match up, do the original cables reach the new solenoid, are the threads compatible? I notice the 6.4 doesn't seem to have a shaft on the DB Electrical site while the 6.0 does. Is there any downside to this upgrade. Thanks for your thoughts.
Just for the 6.7. It uses the same size bolt as the other two locations, so there is some clearance in the bell-housing pathway through. It's more of a precautionary move in case there is some movement if one of the other screws loosened.
I believe my OEM starter on my 2003 6.0 is nearing the end of its life. The posts I have read indicate that some have upgraded to a 6.4 starter. Is this a simple swap out, i.e. do the bolt holes match up, do the original cables reach the new solenoid, are the threads compatible? I notice the 6.4 doesn't seem to have a shaft on the DB Electrical site while the 6.0 does. Is there any downside to this upgrade. Thanks for your thoughts.
Safe to say if you go with the 6.4 starter, you will wonder why you didn't a long time ago
I have an ‘04 Excursion. I want to do this but I see prices from $90 to $350. What starter would you suggest?
Ed
I just got a used one from a salvage yard. I'm guessing the cheaper units are "you get what you pay for"
I did keep the old one in case this one craps out, I can spend some time finding another used one if I have to.
I just got a used one from a salvage yard. I'm guessing the cheaper units are "you get what you pay for"
I did keep the old one in case this one craps out, I can spend some time finding another used one if I have to.
Thanks for the reply. I want to do this one more time. I think I’ll get one mid price range.
I got a new one from DB electrical for $83 shipped, no core charge. It may be a china bomb but it seems to be working ok for now. The 6.4 is a direct fit, no mods needed, everything fits normally.
The difference is great. It spins over much faster.
It does spin faster, but you will have a higher amp draw which will cause a deeper drop in voltage at the moment of engagement and spin. With worn batteries in coldest weather, you’ll need to replace batteries earlier by a few months. Starting in shorter time is not a neutralizing factor, it’s about amp draw. And the easiest way to explain this is you might see 11.8v during the 200-100 amp draw during wait to start, 10.8v during starter engagement when adding 400 additional amps to the draw. Amps matters which was what that video was about.
It all depends on your threshold of lowest volts during starting and this is just advice to not do the change blindly.
It does spin faster, but you will have a higher amp draw which will cause a deeper drop in voltage at the moment of engagement and spin. With worn batteries in coldest weather, you’ll need to replace batteries earlier by a few months. Starting in shorter time is not a neutralizing factor, it’s about amp draw. And the easiest way to explain this is you might see 11.8v during the 200-100 amp draw during wait to start, 10.8v during starter engagement when adding 400 additional amps to the draw. Amps matters which was what that video was about.
It all depends on your threshold of lowest volts during starting and this is just advice to not do the change blindly.
Wish I had kept the spec sheet on it. I do remember it saying a .5V drop. That may be significant in the cold.
I have doen the 6.4 starter swap in two trucks and each time I found they started much faster.
This latest truck I got the starter from B&R Auto Wrecking for $75 and it was a OE part.
I have Ed’s battery cable upgrade kit which should help to keep both batteries in the loop with less voltage drop. Batteries are AutoZone Platnium direct replacements and are 2 years old.
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