Cooling Issue
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Originally Posted by bull jr
I will check to see if the hose is collapsing but don't think that it is. I did some feeling on it when it was running
It's esp. important when cruising down the highway under load and higher RPMs, it's tough to observe the hose collapse/restriction under those conditions. It's not going to choke off at idle.
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As far as the thermostat it is already a highly engineered product it should not be necessary to drill holes in it, in my opinion. It sort of defeats the purpose if you stop and think about it.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
It had a spring in 1975 and if Ford could have saved .20c leaving it out, you can bet your *** they would have, but they didn't.
It's esp. important when cruising down the highway under load and higher RPMs, it's tough to observe the hose collapse/restriction under those conditions. It's not going to choke off at idle.
---------
As far as the thermostat it is already a highly engineered product it should not be necessary to drill holes in it, in my opinion. It sort of defeats the purpose if you stop and think about it.
It's esp. important when cruising down the highway under load and higher RPMs, it's tough to observe the hose collapse/restriction under those conditions. It's not going to choke off at idle.
---------
As far as the thermostat it is already a highly engineered product it should not be necessary to drill holes in it, in my opinion. It sort of defeats the purpose if you stop and think about it.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
Likes: 19
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
In regards to the spring - don't run the motor to feel around for it. Get under the truck and squeeze the crap out of the lower rad hose. You'll feel it if it's there.
A lot of times the old springs in these trucks wear out because of the rust/contaminant build-up in the cooling system. My 40 year old OEM spring is still in the original lower rad hose... but it's barely holding on. It's almost fully rusted through, so yours might be broken into several pieces.
If there's a spring in the hose, you won't be able to make it budge... not even a little. It'll feel like the system is pressurized even though the truck isn't running. Make sure you check the FULL length of the lower rad hose - it may have been removed over the life of the truck... or it might be still there in pieces.
A lot of times the old springs in these trucks wear out because of the rust/contaminant build-up in the cooling system. My 40 year old OEM spring is still in the original lower rad hose... but it's barely holding on. It's almost fully rusted through, so yours might be broken into several pieces.
If there's a spring in the hose, you won't be able to make it budge... not even a little. It'll feel like the system is pressurized even though the truck isn't running. Make sure you check the FULL length of the lower rad hose - it may have been removed over the life of the truck... or it might be still there in pieces.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 77
Likes: 1
I'm pretty sure there is no spring in the lower radiator hose. I just recently installed it and don't think it had one. The top one definitely does. I can feel the difference when I am squeezing them.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
Likes: 19
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
I think you just found your problem. That spring link I posted to CJPonyParts is only $9. Your truck certainly needs one if it doesn't have it.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,217
Likes: 154
Just move it to the lower hose. My truck was the same way when I got it - spring in the upper hose, nothing in the lower hose. As soon as I found that, I moved the spring.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,935
Likes: 4,124
From: Angier, NC
This is because the lower hose is on the suction side of the water pump. When at idle you also don't need the spring because the suction is not great but is needed when going down the road as the suction is greater.
So if you are having over heating issues at idle you need to look else were. Again the lower hose only closes up at speed so if it over heats driving install the spring.
Also if the fan blade is put on backwards it will over heat going down the road. Driving air is pushed thru the radiator now you have a fan trying to push air from the other side and you get no air flow.
Are the water pump blades in good shape? Could they be rusted away? With motor cool cap removed run motor up to normal temp and see if you see the water flowing.
Once up to temp shut motor down and feel the front & back side of the radiator ALLOVER to see if you feel it is hot. A cold spot means no flow, plugged radiator.
I did read about removing the cooling plugs in the block and check for mud. I have see many motors over heat because of this and all the flushing cannot get it out. It has to be "hot tanked" to get clean.
Good luck,
Dave ----
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 10
As general comment, hot rolling down the road usually means plugged up radiator. When rolling fan and shroud do not contribute much.
It also sounds like you have a correct T stat. Best guess, your radiator is plugged up. Reconditioning the radiator means separating the tanks. rodding it out and soldering back together. Most of the time replacement is less costly vs re-conditioning.
I run a Champion radiator and works fine.
It also sounds like you have a correct T stat. Best guess, your radiator is plugged up. Reconditioning the radiator means separating the tanks. rodding it out and soldering back together. Most of the time replacement is less costly vs re-conditioning.
I run a Champion radiator and works fine.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,668
Likes: 13
From: Saskatchewan
You need the spring only in the lower hose .
This is because the lower hose is on the suction side of the water pump. When at idle you also don't need the spring because the suction is not great but is needed when going down the road as the suction is greater.
So if you are having over heating issues at idle you need to look else were. Again the lower hose only closes up at speed so if it over heats driving install the spring.
Also if the fan blade is put on backwards it will over heat going down the road. Driving air is pushed thru the radiator now you have a fan trying to push air from the other side and you get no air flow.
Are the water pump blades in good shape? Could they be rusted away? With motor cool cap removed run motor up to normal temp and see if you see the water flowing.
Once up to temp shut motor down and feel the front & back side of the radiator ALLOVER to see if you feel it is hot. A cold spot means no flow, plugged radiator.
I did read about removing the cooling plugs in the block and check for mud. I have see many motors over heat because of this and all the flushing cannot get it out. It has to be "hot tanked" to get clean.
Good luck,
Dave ----
This is because the lower hose is on the suction side of the water pump. When at idle you also don't need the spring because the suction is not great but is needed when going down the road as the suction is greater.
So if you are having over heating issues at idle you need to look else were. Again the lower hose only closes up at speed so if it over heats driving install the spring.
Also if the fan blade is put on backwards it will over heat going down the road. Driving air is pushed thru the radiator now you have a fan trying to push air from the other side and you get no air flow.
Are the water pump blades in good shape? Could they be rusted away? With motor cool cap removed run motor up to normal temp and see if you see the water flowing.
Once up to temp shut motor down and feel the front & back side of the radiator ALLOVER to see if you feel it is hot. A cold spot means no flow, plugged radiator.
I did read about removing the cooling plugs in the block and check for mud. I have see many motors over heat because of this and all the flushing cannot get it out. It has to be "hot tanked" to get clean.
Good luck,
Dave ----
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 205
Likes: 1
I am running a 390 with an automatic. I live in central Florida where it gets unbearably hot at times. I was having cooling issues, ran hot, temp would creep up in traffic or at a drive thru.
i had an original radiator and no shroud.
I bought a new aluminium radiator off the internet and the correct shroud. Its been a year now and its never, ever ran hot again, regardless the temp or what I'm doing
i had an original radiator and no shroud.
I bought a new aluminium radiator off the internet and the correct shroud. Its been a year now and its never, ever ran hot again, regardless the temp or what I'm doing
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Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 77
Likes: 1
Thank you guys for all your help and insight. As an update, it appears that the issue was the wire connector at the tstat housing. It had broke off in my hand when i went to remove it initially. I replaced it and the gauge reads right in the middle where it's supposed to. I went ahead and bought the temp gun, and pointing it right at the tstat housing, it read in the 190's, matching the 192 tstat I installed. I still will install the shroud I bought and will be buying and installing the rad hose spring. Having both in place sure can't hurt a bit. Thanks again!
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