Diagnosing a steering problem
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Diagnosing a steering problem
I didn' see any other post about this, so here goes. 2004 f250 4x4 5.4 l 6 speed manual w/ 242,000 miles, and noticing 2 things issues with the steering system. 1st, I noticed that there is a good amount of slop in the steering wheel. I only notice it after I get started going down the road ( approx 30-40 or faster) and is more pronounced on lettered highways that are typically engineered not as good as numbered highways. Started hearing a whining noise (not a grinding noise) while turning the wheels. The power steering fluid was a bit low, so i added some new fluid. (Just watched a video on steering tonight) I did not turn the steering wheel lock to lock numerous times after adding fluid. I checked the fluid again and was at the proper level. I've note checked to see if the steering wheel will return or not after having made a turn.
Thanks ya'll in advance.
Thanks ya'll in advance.
Last edited by Nick1987; Apr 29, 2018 at 02:55 AM. Reason: Needed fixed
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Lexington Mo
Mornen!
If you can tell a difference driving on rural roads v.s. paved roads, I'd start with checking out the front suspension. Check the ball joints, tie rod ends, hub bearing assembly, all bushings for sway bar, and link pins.
Are you adding power steering fluid to the pump, or another hydraulic fluid?
You front tires as well as front end alignment may also let you feel the road differently.
Unk Bob
If you can tell a difference driving on rural roads v.s. paved roads, I'd start with checking out the front suspension. Check the ball joints, tie rod ends, hub bearing assembly, all bushings for sway bar, and link pins.
Are you adding power steering fluid to the pump, or another hydraulic fluid?
You front tires as well as front end alignment may also let you feel the road differently.
Unk Bob
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Slop or "play" in the steering wheel ='s worn parts. Like a steering shaft and what ever new trucks have in the shaft as far a connections where it comes out the fire wall and connects to the input shaft on the steering box. ... like a rag/ flex joint? F250 4wd maybe a mini u joint? Then that many miles I'd say worn out steering box. Then all the parts that Ubreal mentioned.
Worn tires, in need of a front end aliment.
Worn tires, in need of a front end aliment.
Lead Driver
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From: Laquey, MO
Our roads out here leave a lot to be desired don't they?
I'm with Bob thinking that you have some worn suspension pieces under there. I'm not sure what suspension set up was used in the F-250s of that era, but loose ball joints are always at the top of the hit list along with tie rod ends. Finding a competent front end shop that can (for a fee) diagnose the problem around here is the real trick. Places that offer free alignment checks around here are often as good as what you pay for.
I'm with Bob thinking that you have some worn suspension pieces under there. I'm not sure what suspension set up was used in the F-250s of that era, but loose ball joints are always at the top of the hit list along with tie rod ends. Finding a competent front end shop that can (for a fee) diagnose the problem around here is the real trick. Places that offer free alignment checks around here are often as good as what you pay for.
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Had my mechanic replace the brake pads on the front end today. The driver side hub is getting pretty bad and needs to be replaced. So there's a $203 part but, at least the passenger side isn't so bad though. Then the driver side caliper was stubborn as a mule to put back in and had to use a 12" or so C clamp that he had, to get the piston to go back in. The passenger side simply went back in with a 4" C clamp. So there's another $97($65 total after core return). For a grand total of $268.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Lexington Mo
Had my mechanic replace the brake pads on the front end today. The driver side hub is getting pretty bad and needs to be replaced. So there's a $203 part but, at least the passenger side isn't so bad though. Then the driver side caliper was stubborn as a mule to put back in and had to use a 12" or so C clamp that he had, to get the piston to go back in. The passenger side simply went back in with a 4" C clamp. So there's another $97($65 total after core return). For a grand total of $268.
Unk Bob
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Had my mechanic replace the brake pads on the front end today. The driver side hub is getting pretty bad and needs to be replaced. So there's a $203 part but, at least the passenger side isn't so bad though. Then the driver side caliper was stubborn as a mule to put back in and had to use a 12" or so C clamp that he had, to get the piston to go back in. The passenger side simply went back in with a 4" C clamp. So there's another $97($65 total after core return). For a grand total of $268.
Moderator & parts slinger
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So a wise guy once told me that having a used caliper on one side and a brand new caliper on the other can cause some feeling and braking action like one caliper is dragging. Meaning the older used one might be slower to respond and the new one is fast and smooth.
But some guys call that idea B/S.
But some guys call that idea B/S.
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So a wise guy once told me that having a used caliper on one side and a brand new caliper on the other can cause some feeling and braking action like one caliper is dragging. Meaning the older used one might be slower to respond and the new one is fast and smooth.
But some guys call that idea B/S.
But some guys call that idea B/S.
Post Fiend
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From: Lexington Mo
Yup, that new caliper is going to outperform that older one. It's more more likely to grab, and let go smoother/faster than the older one.
And make sure whom ever does the work, that they take a wire brush and knock all of that flaking rust off of the spindle, and to lube the area that lets the caliper slide back and forth. That will make a big difference on how the new brake pads wear.
Get decent brake pads too, cheaper brake pads won't normally last as long as a higher end brake pad, and you will normally get more break dust from a cheaper brake pad. Myself, I Wagner parts. Easy to get at O'Reilly.
Unk Bob
And make sure whom ever does the work, that they take a wire brush and knock all of that flaking rust off of the spindle, and to lube the area that lets the caliper slide back and forth. That will make a big difference on how the new brake pads wear.
Get decent brake pads too, cheaper brake pads won't normally last as long as a higher end brake pad, and you will normally get more break dust from a cheaper brake pad. Myself, I Wagner parts. Easy to get at O'Reilly.
Unk Bob
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Hello guys, I'm here to close this thred out more or less, of course feel free to leave anymore messages that you like. So I had the driver front hub assembly replaced and also the driver front caliper replaced as well as the front brakes as previously mentioned. We seemed to have figured out a few things. 1 being that part of the steering problem was likely due to the hub assembly being bad and also maybe even the brakes being constantly on the driver front, because now the steering has improved dramatically. 2 being that you get much improved fuel mileage when your calipers are properly working and not engaging the brakes. And lastly, some engineering wizard up in ford motor company decided that mid year in '04 to go ahead and switch the lug studs from a "course" thred to a "fine" thred. Of course I didn't know any better and it slipped past the guy at orielys and my mechanic found out only after trying to start thredding on the lug nuts to no avail. And of course the hub assembly with the "fine thred" lug stug cost about 80 bucks more, go figure. Thank y'll for the help
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