Hello! I know this has been discussed but the threads have gotten way to long to read. So here goes. I have a 2017 F250 with the halogen headlights. I am looking to swap the bulbs out for LED. I was looking at headlight revolutions bulbs but $300 seems a bit pricey plus you have to buy the PWM interface Module to fix the flickering issue and that is another $100. Here is the link to those....
https://headlightrevolution.com/2017...e-kit-4-bulbs/#

I did hear about Beamtech bulbs but haven't found reviews on them. Who has what and what would you suggest?

 

I would suggest a proper retrofit. Putting LED bulbs in reflectors designed for halogen will do nothing except scatter the light and blind people, while not improving the lighting for your visibility.

 

 

 

I also have had the Beamtechs for about 3-4 months. I have had no issues and I have much more light and visibility at night. I have not had any issues and have not been flashed except a couple of times (to be fair, I got flashed with the halogens too. I think people see the quad lights and think my brights are on). Install was super easy plug and play.

 

Wrong. Dozens here have been very happy with Beamtech H13's. I shouldn't have even replied if the OP admittedly was too lazy to look through the extensive thread about Budget LED headlights. But I thought that I had to counteract your statement with the evidence of many happy users here.
Of course everything is subjective.

 

Thanks for the info on beamtech lights!

 

Just did the Beamtech this weekend on XLT that will be 1 year old Memorial Day. About $80 from Amazon for all four. Took about 1.5 hours, but really took my time and was in no hurry. I did not want to break anything and have all the trim removal tools you could ever want. I went the airbox/washer neck route and did not break anything. I removed the grill once and did not like how it went. The lamps are very, very difficult to twist out. Did I say difficult? Really difficult. I was sure I was breaking something and would wind up costing myself large sums of $$$, but I didn't break anything. I wound up standing on 2 bags of salt to get leverage and took kinda shifts as my arms got tired. I contemplated Channel locks, but wouldn't fit, very tight in there, and glad I didn't get to use them in hindsight. I would wear a long sleeve shirt as I really irritated the skin on my arms and got a large bruise on my right bicep from the "fight". I applied dielectric silicone to everything. I did this with my Raptor and 2 F-150's and had zero issues and took the LEDs out of vehicles when I traded them no problem with the dielectric applied. I also put silicone on the filler neck tube. Buttoned back up and works really well in my opinion. I feel the light is great and have no complaints about the high beam as some have. Halogens just seem like "vintage/mood" light to me now and I appreciate the white light as I don't see well at night like I used to. I could do it now probably in 45 min. now, but getting those lamps to twist is tough. 2 were "relatively" easy, one was hard. and one brought out the spicy language and stomping. These vehicles are engineered so well now that every square Cm. seems accounted for. Very advanced in my opinion. I hope this helps you some.

 

Make sure to read the thread on here about installing them. There are lots of tips in there that will save you a lot of headaches, such as making sure the red rubber gaskets comes off with the old bulbs. 3 of my 4 did not and I would have fought for a while with that otherwise! dbraynor, I got my own battle scars doing it too!

 

Yeah, none of the gaskets came out with the OEM Sylvania bulbs and thanks to this site I knew what to do.

 

You don't need the module for the HR kit. But the beamtech are cheaper, I had bought the HR kit before seeing the cheaper option. No problems and I have been really impressed with the brightness.

 

I have a set of Lasfit LEDs in my headlights. They were a little more expensive, and they're definitely bright as hell. I aimed my **** all the way down and no one has flashed me yet. I try not to ride people's backsides with them though, since my truck is lifted. The cutoff isn't super sharp, but they're not glaring like most idiots on the road.

It's just to hold me over until I retrofit in a couple months. Anything headlights with these guys costs twice as much!!!!

 

When you say you "aimed" your "****", do you mean you used the hex key to align the LED itself or did you aim the entire housing? If you did the housing, I'd be interested in how you did that! Tahnks!

 

lol sorry apparently I can't say a 4 letter word that starts in sh and ends in it. I used the headlight adjustment setting to go all the way down, and then I loosened up the 3 screws holding in the headlight (I say 3 because I never reinstall the stupid bottom screw that sits behind the corner of the bumper).... I put the top screw back in, lean the headlight as far forward as the screw will let it go, then tighten it all the way down. Next I tighten down the 2 screws on the front of the headlight and call it good. This gives me a couple more inches of down aim at 15 feet or so. I mainly did it because even with the halogens I was getting flashed constantly when I first picked up the truck. I think my headlights might slightly be defective in that sense, aimed too high. Anyways, since I installed the LED's and aimed down, I've only been flashed once, and I think that was because I was coming over a rise, and its natural to see 4 lenses active on a car and automatically think their high beams are on. I know I would.

My truck is lifted so I have alot going against me in that sense, but the aim is down for sure, and the cutoff is right around 42" at 20 feet. Sounds high, but remember I'm about 8 or 9 inches taller in the front than normal trucks, so I try to be considerate and not ride behind people. The cutoff hits the ground around 75 yards.

It's only a bandaid for now. I will be retrofitting projectors down the road, but yeah, thats gonna be an expensive project with 4 projectors.

 

Thanks for the reply and sorry to sound dumb, but are these screw locations in the owners manual? Are they easy to access, because changing those bulbs was a pain! I am not blinding anyone, but I think my housings need to be rotated out toward starboard and port on each respective side. Thanks!