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Clutch equalizer alignment

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Old Apr 23, 2018 | 08:49 AM
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Clutch equalizer alignment

I installed my engine Saturday morning after a rebuild and as I am putting the clutch linkage back together, I notice the z-bar completely out of kilter. The motor mated with the trans and sat right into place without much issue - and it appears level. I can't move the inner bracket up. What in the world did I do?
 
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Old Apr 23, 2018 | 09:19 AM
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What year, series and engine size?
 
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Old Apr 23, 2018 | 09:24 AM
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'77 F-250 4WD, NP manual trans, was a 351M but is now converted to 400
 
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Old Apr 23, 2018 | 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by JKessler00
'77 F-250 4WD, NP manual trans, was a 351M but is now converted to 400
 
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Old Apr 24, 2018 | 07:28 AM
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I wish I would have taken a "before" pic. I'm sure it wasn't like that.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2018 | 06:24 PM
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I've gone over it and I cannot see anything wrong. Is there any chance I have the motor mounts backwards? That's the only thing I can come up with.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2018 | 09:23 PM
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Your engine is not sitting level... the perch holes may need to be elongated

Alternatively, check if the engine-side bracket is assembled/oriented correctly.
 
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Old May 3, 2018 | 07:40 PM
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The engine sat perfectly level. Everything checked out. I didn't do a 460 swap but I found the following thread where several others had the same problem: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...vel-460-a.html

I pressed out the stud, drilled a new hole 1/2" higher in the bracket, and welded it in. All is well now.

The other problem I still have is that the clutch pedal does not return after pressing it down. The clutch is working but I have to help the pedal up. I've adjusted the pencil both forward and back and it doesn't seem to change.
 
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Old May 3, 2018 | 08:49 PM
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Do you have the return spring on there?
 
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Old May 3, 2018 | 09:16 PM
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Yes, there's good tension
 
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Old May 3, 2018 | 10:17 PM
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It's probably the Z-bar binding. Try disengaging the threaded shaft from the clutch fork, and see if the pedal feels like there's too much resistance.
With the pedal moving only the Z-bar, there should be barely any resistance - other than if the return spring is still connected.
 
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Old May 7, 2018 | 06:06 PM
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Negative. The z-bar moves freely when disconnected from the adjusting rod. I got the new motor running today and thought I'd take it for a spin. I couldn't even get the trans out of neutral. It's worse than I thought. The throwout bearing is new and came with the clutch. I don't see how it could have gone on wrong so my hope is that the adjusting rod is just too short for some reason. It looks as if it has been modified in the past. I get more than half way down on the pedal before I feel the slightest of resistance from the pressure plate.
 
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Old May 7, 2018 | 08:10 PM
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Does sound like the adjusting rod....how's the angle between the throwout arm and Z bar connection. Do you have the "swivel" still working on the Z bar?
 
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Old May 8, 2018 | 11:04 AM
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I'll have to have the wife press the pedal for me tonight so I can watch what is happening. I'm not sure about the angle of the arm and zbar. I do recall the new throw out bearing being nearly 1/4" less in thickness than the old one but it came with the clutch so I assumed I should put it on. Maybe that's where the adjusting rod is coming in; I can't accommodate for the increased range needed.
 
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Old May 14, 2018 | 08:00 AM
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It was definitely the adjusting rod. I now have a clutch and the pedal springs back exactly as it should. Whew!
 

Last edited by JKessler00; May 14, 2018 at 08:07 AM. Reason: Added pic
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