Duraspark issue
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Duraspark issue
I know this duraspark conversion topic has been beat to death. There are a lot of very helpful how-to's for conversion on this subject, but I have an issue after conversion I haven't been able to find a thread on.
So today i did the duraspark conversion on my 1986 f150 300 straight six. I have a non-feed back carb, and the rest of the duraspark components I used came fro Autozone, except the wiring harness, that came from from American wiring. So all my parts are new.
So after installing everything, I cranked the truck and start messing with the distributor. Got all that situated and since the first time I cranked the truck, when ever I turn the truck off, it takes without fail, 6-8 seconds for the motor to die. It doesn't spitter or back fire or even run rough when I'm driving it. Even after the key is off it runs perfect and then 6-8 seconds later, it dies.
maybe this is dumb, but could it be a solenoid? I've had this ignition system in a previous 1980 truck and the solenoid I have in this 1986 and the solenoid I had in the truck are different than each other.
Any help or trouble shooting advice is always appreciated.
So today i did the duraspark conversion on my 1986 f150 300 straight six. I have a non-feed back carb, and the rest of the duraspark components I used came fro Autozone, except the wiring harness, that came from from American wiring. So all my parts are new.
So after installing everything, I cranked the truck and start messing with the distributor. Got all that situated and since the first time I cranked the truck, when ever I turn the truck off, it takes without fail, 6-8 seconds for the motor to die. It doesn't spitter or back fire or even run rough when I'm driving it. Even after the key is off it runs perfect and then 6-8 seconds later, it dies.
maybe this is dumb, but could it be a solenoid? I've had this ignition system in a previous 1980 truck and the solenoid I have in this 1986 and the solenoid I had in the truck are different than each other.
Any help or trouble shooting advice is always appreciated.
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From: Virginia
Where do you have your hot wire for the ignition system run to? Obviously the ignition is getting power from somewhere after the key is turned off. This usually happens when a bunch of hot wires are all tied together doing different things all at once. This is one of the reasons the factory switch has different sections to it. One of the main culprits that will cause this is the alternator system. It can generate a small voltage till it completely dies, and this can back feed into the ignition system if it's all hooked together on one wire and one single pole switch.
And you do have the resistor in the hot wire to the coil correct?
And you do have the resistor in the hot wire to the coil correct?
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Honestly, I wired the "keyed hot" wire to just a wire I found that got power with the key on. What you are saying makes a ton of sense to me though. I guess I'll see if I can splice into something directly to a wire from the key switch that for sure doesn't have any lasting power.
I'm sure I have the resistor wired correctly, but I did try switching the connection just to make sure and it still did the same thing.
I'm sure I have the resistor wired correctly, but I did try switching the connection just to make sure and it still did the same thing.
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From: Angier, NC
Before you go finding another power wire what if the motor was running the you unplugged that wire would it shut right off or stay running?
That would tell you if that is the issue or not.
Got to ask why not you the power wire the old system used and just add the resistor?
Or is that what you did but does not sound like it.
Dave ----
That would tell you if that is the issue or not.
Got to ask why not you the power wire the old system used and just add the resistor?
Or is that what you did but does not sound like it.
Dave ----
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That would have been a good trouble shooting practice, but it was bothering me last night and so I did a temporary connection to another keyed hot wire I found and the problem went away.
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FTE Legend
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From: Angier, NC
Well you got it fix and that is all that counts.
Dave ----
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From: Virginia
What color wire did you use this time? I am not a fan of *****-nilly hooking things up alike that. Too much chance of what happened to you happening, or too much chance of getting too much on one circuit. Or you might be tied to a circuit that has a fuse, that fuse may blow and then the truck stops. The original circuit did not have a fuse, only a fusible link. I am guessing that you might have one of the correct wires now though, since there are not that many under the hood that turn on and off with the key. We can look it up on the diagram though and verify were you are at.
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