You may be correct and this may be a dealer installed system because my hoses do not look like the ones you posted. Also, the hoses I have do not have any metal fittings on one end and both # 2 and #3 run over to the master cylinder I wonder if they make an aftermarket filter kit like to one Ford .

 

Well let me know what you plan on doing.
Are you wanting to connect the rear ac unit back up or are you going to just stick with the front ac?
What are you going to be using the van for?

My van came from the factory with just a front AC unit. It works great for people in the front and even in the middle but it gets warm in the very back seat.
Color and insulation in the van have allot to do with it too. My van is a hightop conversion van with lots of windows, is black on the sides, and gets quite warm sitting in the sun. I plan on converting it into a camper one day and do not need the rear ac. It would be useless when parked because I would need to run the engine.

I will say that the air temperature coming out the front vents on a front only ac will not get as cool as a car or truck. The coolest I have seen mine is 45F but average is 55F. That is because The front ac unit is trying to cool down a big box often starting with a temperature of over 110F.

If you choose to go with just the front ac then I can pretty quickly get you a list of all the parts you need because I still have the info for mine.. I did a little searching and found that all of the hoses fro the front unit only can be bought with the barrier hoses...

So let me know which way you want to go with it.

 

The van is a wheel chair van, it is used for transportation of a single wheel chair patient.
I only plan on getting the front A/C working.

 

Wow this got long!

Ok I just saw where you posted a 5.8 engine...

I looked back through my email’s where I bought the parts for my van and found all three hoses. you would need. If you use these hoses then you would also need a new compressor..

Here is the compressor that should fit your van.
A/C Compressor New Motorcraft YC53 FS6 Compressor Without Clutch OE Ford
US $119.00
Free shipping
https://www.ebay.com/itm/A-C-Compressor-New-Motorcraft-YC53-FS6-Compressor-Without-Clutch-OE-Ford/352240374038?epid=75009416&hash=item5203299116:g:~ iIAAOSw5rdZe3GJ
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Compressor clutch.
Each compressor uses its own clutch and is also dependant on what car it is going on.
I bought mine as separate components because i found them that way and it saved me $25. I also wound up with a couple of extra parts left over because one of them was the wrong part!
Be aware that there may be two different size bearings used in these clutches. Originally I bought just the bearings and was going to replace the bearings in my old clutch but found out the first set did not fit on the compressor.
BUT this is the one listed for the E6DH compressor
FOUR SEASONS 47854

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Hose #1 $56.79
FOUR SEASONS 56680 Hose Assembly (Barrier hose)
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Hose #2 $39.79
FOUR SEASONS 55745 Hose Assembly (Barrier hose)
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Hose #3 $89.68
Call Four seasons and see if they have this hose. The Omega part has the new barrier hose and Four seasons should also.
SUCTION LINE E-VAN 88-91 Motorcraft part # or #E9UZ19867-B
OMEGA ENVIRONMENTAL TECHNOLOGIES Part #34-63446
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This is the orifice tube I used in my R12 system
Orifice tube $4.47
Motorcraft “Orange” part #YG343, F5DH19D990AA, F5DZ19D990AB
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I have read that if you convert to R134a you need to use a red or blue orifice tube. In most forums people seem to use the Red one when converting to R134a
4 Seasons Orifice Tube Red part #38635
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Accumulator (says compatible with R12 or R134a)
Four Seasons part #33164
Info on compatibility from here:
https://www.opticatonline.com/part/f...-c-accumulator
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Clutch cycle switch for R134a
Four Seasons part #36676
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PAG Oil
The manual calls for 10 ounces for a new system using the E6DH compressor. Look at the info posted earlier to find out how much oil to put in each component till it equals 10 ounces.
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O-ring kit (you will have a bunch of extras left over)
All your new lines will come with O-rings on them. I changed mine anyway because you don’t know how old the lines are and O-rings do have a shelf life. If you don’t change the O-rings on the new lines, you will at least have to change the O-rings on the condenser where the line that runs under the battery connects to the condenser.
FOUR SEASONS Part #26724-
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IF you change the O-rings I recommend Santech O-Ring Pick Tool
Part Number: MT1406 $2.00
The last thing you want to do is have a nick or scratch on a o-ring and have to redo the job’
https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...ogo/952392_0_0
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One last thing I recommend is BLUE NYLOG to coat all the o-rings and fittings. You can use the pag oil but this stuff is much much better and will ensure no leaks unless you really screw up a o-ring. Most any AC supply shop should have it or you gan get it online. If you didn't notice when you removed the one line, you will probably find the old fittings and o-rings dried out and the fittings hard to separate. That is because the oil used dried up. The Nylog wont dry out
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A last and final note is about the compressor itself. The compressor I gave the part number to is a Ford factory compressor. They have not been built in several years now so that means they have sat on the shelf for some time. The first one I ordered appeared to be froze up. I returned it and got another. It too was froze up. After doing some research I learned this is common among compressors that set on the shelf for long periods of time. It is not rusted and locked up... The assembly lube/coating used at the factory at the time of assembly dries out and the parts stick like they are frozen. I put the clutch hub on the compressor and used a strap wrench to bread the compressor free. After that I turned it by hand daily for 2 or 3 minutes each time till it finally felt smooth when turning. I also flushed out the oil because it came with mineral oil. I had time to turn it daily because I had it a couple of months before I installed it..

The compressor comes with a cap over the inlet/outlet holes. To drain and flush the oil you remove that cap and turn the compressor shaft while holding the holes facing downward.

A final note about this compressor is the front shaft seal. I thought about changing it out simply because I didn’t know how old it was, but I didn’t. That is the only place in my system that appears to have a slow leak. This it going on 3 years now and the ac still cools though I believe I may need to add a little freon this year.. I talked to a AC shop that still does R12 and he told me it is normal for the compressor to seep a little oil and not to worry about it.
The symptoms are I can see a little dirt/dust gathering around the front of the compressor just behind the clutch. When you get the compressor you will see a little cloth like string at the bottom of the compressor just under the shaft seal. The guy at the AC shop mentioned this and said it is there to catch the oil because the older compressors did seep a slight bit of oil. So it is normal.

Thats about all I can think about for now except the part numbers I gave you can be used to shop around to find the best pricing.

This site might be worth looking at to double check part numbers and possiably check to see who sells their parts and price them.
https://www.polarbearinc.com/PBPC/Ho..._BroncoII.html


The hose #3 on the drawing with the red and green hoses may come up here when you search for it. it will also come up on a Ebay search from the same company. Watch these guys... I ordered this line from them and they sent me the wrong line in a box labeled with the correct part #. I had a little fight with them to get all my money back and then was still shorted a little..
Here is a thread about that issue.. They do have the best price if they will ship you the correct part!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...parts-com.html