Hi,

My AC is dead like a dead cow and I've been sweating a lot in GA's hot wave. I really need to have the AC serviced but unfortunately, the AC in my truck still uses R12 which is kind of expensive to get. But I hesitate to convert it to R134a since I see people claim R134a does not work as well since the compressor and condensor are not designed to be working with R134a.

Cost wise, I called an auto AC shop and they say they can have it converted to R134a with $275 + other repairs eg, leaks that they may find along the way. They will replace the lubricant but not the seals. So I am probably in the league of $400~500, assuming my compressor is still good.

Another option would be to stay with R12. I can order the seal kit from rockauto for $25 and 4 bottles of R12 from ebay for around $150. Maybe another $150 for the accumulator , hoses, valves and other items. I can save around $100 going this route, but every time I need to refill will have to spend $100 more.

So please, if you were me, what would be your decision?

 

I may be the luckiest guy on the planet (not likely) but I have always just screwed on the adapter ports over the schrader valves, pulled a vacuum on the system, let it sit a day, then recharged with 134 oil and gas. Never had a problem. It there is a leak, best to get that fixed but 134 seems to be less leaky than R12. The pump cycles at about the same pressures and the air is as cold as R12. I used to buy kits at Kmart for $34. jim

 

I just rebuilt my AC system on my 88 E150. I went back with R12 even though I replaced every part. If I had it to do over again I might try R134 simply because no one seems to work on R12 systems around here except a shop in Marietta.

How long has your system been down?
Did the AC work well the last time it was working?
My van sat for many years before I bough it and when I took the hoses off, they were coated with a thin layer of rust inside.

Changing the o-rings is a fairly simple job. The hardest part was getting the spring lock connectors apart. Some of the cheep tools they sell for unlocking them are junk.. Spraying a little lubricant on them helps as they might be full of dirt..
The dryer, make sure you get one for the type of freon you plan to use.
Also would be a good idea to change the clutch pressure switch and that too depends on which freon you use.

the compressor oil that ford specs for the R12 system is YN-9. i had trouble finding out that info but that is what it is for R12. Not sure what you use for R134 if you are converting from R12. It will need to be an oil that will mix with residue from the R12 mineral oil.

AZ has a loaner vacuum pump. Gauges,, you will need a set to match the connectors. i already has a set that fit R12 fittings. I believe they do make adapters though.

Oh and you will want to replace the orifice tube. It goes inside the evaporator on the liquid line. If you have trouble getting the old one out, Orileys has a loaner tool for removing it.

When you say seal kit, are you talking about the compressor shaft seal?
TheO-ring kit I got was from AZ for $15.. The accumulator/dryer I bought for my van was under $20

I will warn you now, mine is not working to my satisfaction with all new parts and I did all the work! My vent temp is only getting down to 52F. Now Jim here at another poster here had a 88 and says 52F is the best he got from his.. But we are talking cooling a big van with alot of space and only a front AC. So if mine is supposed to be cooler, we haven't figured out whats up yet..

If your compressor is bad, then you are in a different ballpark. The deposits go all through the system and are hard to clean out.. Even if it is still good, I would recommend a flush kit to flush the condenser and evaporator.
I did not flush mine because all the parts were new and I may find out that was a mistake.. I am thinking that if there was any dirt inside my new condenser, it might have moved to the orifice tube and partially stopped the screen.

Another thing to mention, when posting in the AC forums, someone mentioned about the R12 I bought from Ebay, not being real R12.. If you go that rout, make sure it is not an r12 substitute like freeze12. The cans I bought were older cans and had little rust spots here and there so I believe, from the appearance of the cans that it truly is r12

I believe the F150 only requires 3lbs? mine took 3.5lbs, +-.25

If you flush the system, take the compressor off and drain as much oil out of it as you can and flush it out with new oil at least once and then you will have all the old oil out of the system. Flush the compressor with which ever oil matches the freon type you will be using.

I have been trying to get a hold af a guy on craigsliist abut some R12 he has for $20 a can..
freon R12

i sent him a message yesterday and he said he still had it. i sent another message yesterday stating I wanted 4 cans and he hasn't replied.. So i dont know about that seller.. Now there is another add for Kennesaw showing $50 a can. I wonder if it is the same guy...

Anyway hope some of this helps..
i have also heard that they will be phasing out R134 in the future.. Might be a good time to stock up on some for an investment in case it goes up in price like R12~

 

My neighbor works for Toyota and said basically the same thing you just said.
With my system I was trying to go back exactly like it came from the factory.
I did read an article about R134 leaking through old R12 type hoses because the molecules are smaller then the ones in R12. But then I read another article that said once the old type hoses have been saturated over the years with mineral oil that is in the R12 system, that it is no longer a problem.

Another reason i changed out my entire system was because it had a rebuilt compressor on it that was locked up. That meant that the original had also gone bad and I didn't know how much trash was in my system.

I don't know how you get an accurate measurement on the oil needed if you are not changing out any parts except the dryer.

 

You don't want to stay with R-12. Supplies in secondary markets are drying up. My '94 just got a reman compressor, dryer accumulator, orifice valve, box of O-rings and condenser along with a fresh charge of 134a. Evap temperature runs around 40-45F. No complaints here. Parts came from RA and totaled around $300.

 

Thank you all for the very valuable input. I've decided to convert to R134a for the long term profit. I want to make sure I get the job done correctly, so let me put down my shopping list and hope you guys can tell me what I am missing:

1. The orifice tube More Information for MOTORCRAFT YG343

2. The condensor More Information for APDI/PRO 7014375

3. The o-ring set More Information for GPD 1321258

4. The valve More Information for MOTORCRAFT YF879

5. The accumulator More Information for SPECTRA PREMIUM / COOLING DEPOT 0233054

 

@annaleigh

Where u located? Looks like we r not far apart. I live in East Cobb.