I'm replacing drums and shoes all around on my '66 Econoline. A google search brings up half a dozen types of drums from $35 to $95 each, and shoes from $16 to $35 ea. I'm not a "cheapest price" kind of guy, and I don't want to overpay. Where do I turn to get something reliable at a fair price? Doesn't have to be OEM or NOS. Any info much appreciated.

 

With regards to brake linings in general,
Ceramics: They are good but do not develop any more friction than good quality OEM linings
Performance Friction & Hawk: Good braking, increased friction but can be very dirty depending on the lining spec.
Wagner & Raybestos: a line of products that is 100% marketing and mfg from very low quality/inexpensive and/or imported products with the mfg's not providing any back-up or support on product failures (and I mean real ugly spontaneous, catestropihic failures) VelveTouch lining- Used for many decades and was the original lining used in all Shelby Mustangs in the 60’s (I personally have used the Velvetouch lining since 1960’s until brake lining production ceased in 1986), then switched to Carbo. Wellman has been the builder of braking linings for all of the Formula 1 race teams for more than 30 years and VT is now available again for disc brakes.
Bendix- TitaniuMetallic™ II, a newer lining (semi-metallic) and although I have not personally used this, I have always been impressed with Bendix brake linings and this particular lining IIMHO would be a low dust, excellent oem upgrade/mild performance type brake lining.CarboTech Engineering lining, which I have used for about 20+ years and been very happy on multiple full size (V8) cars and trucks. This particular lining has a high friction co-efficient, excellent pedal feel, wears (typically 50,000 to 75,000 miles before replacement is required) and produces less dust than OEM linings.
I highly recommend speaking to them by phone for linings that would be best for your application. Fyi- braking co-efficient is what identifies the bite rating of the linings- you want the CE to be no less than that of the OEM.....this will drive most e-base distributors & big box store "experts" right out of their mind because they either cannot verify this info or you will find the spec is less than oem. IMHO, i would look for a CE that is .49 or greater.
With regards to rotors, I have previously run Brembo OEM replacement rotors that are cryogenically treated at Diversified Cryogenics, making them almost as hard as stainless steel-Unfortunately, Brembo, Powerslot, Raybestos, Bendix, Hawk etc. are all purchasing their rotors from the same foundary in China (with the exception of the $300 each composite high end units for Ferrari, Porsche, etc).
DC purchases the highest grade rotors made, laser mic them for quality, scrap the ones that are out of spec and cryogenically treat the good ones which are now as strong as stainless. They will also slot and cross drill the rotors for you. DC's service, price and quality are excellent as well.

For street use, slotted/drilled rotors are just “cheese-graters” for the brake pads IMHO, because unless you are involved in true racing conditions, the brake linings do not produce the gases which slotted/drilled rotors are designed to relive. In some cases, brake testing indicated reduce brake efficiency in street-based operations using slotted/drilled rotors when equal comparisons were made. The staff at carbo can speak to you as well regarding those options, but I am very satisfied with the performance & wear of these products.

Let me speak about drum (shoe) linings specifically.....
To start with, the replacement linings at most parts houses have a braking co-efficient of around .25, that is about 50% less than what the oem called for in the 60's (which was .32 or better, most offered .38 replacement linings). Going back to the 70's and through today, linings rated at .49 or better are common and typically sell for around $200-$240 a set. longevity, typically 50k to 100k (miles) depends on your foot. Braking capability, every bit as good as oem grade disc brakes (noticed I said oem grade) as I have demonstrated to numerous "experts"........and remember, the 3/4 scale dirt track Jalopy cars that are running today are required to have drum brakes!
Fyi- braking co-efficient is what identifies the bite rating of the linings- .....this will drive most e-base distributors & big box store "experts" right out of their mind because they either cannot verify this info or you will find the spec is less than oem. Again, IMHO, i would look for a CE that is .49 or greater.

 

TWO different sizes of rear brakes. The drums & shoes are specific to one or the other: 10" x 1 3/4" or 10" x 2 1/2."

 

Full cast drums will cost more than composite. Your call but it might be adviseable to spend more for the front set and buy "the good stuff" as they perform ~70% of the work.

 

 

Brakes are just the first step in my restoration, and I want to make informed decisions. Thanks to your input, I'm on my way. Once brakes are checked off my list, steering box & king pins come next. "Steering box - replace or rebuild?" -- something to look forward to..... Thanks again.