SO i have this new wheel or i have had this wheel for a while now and about 6 or so month ago I tried to put it on and figured out, after taking all the crap off to do this, the threads are TOO tight to spin on by hand, unlike the old one . SO i put all the crap back with old wheel and ask vendor what to do. I was told to chase thread with a 1/4-28 tap to "loosen' the thread as they advised you install wheel by taking turbo off and blocking it from spinning on exhaust side, which is not how I want to install it.

SO i got a 1/4-28 tap and chased the threads thinking now I can take the old one off (wheel on left) and spin on new 4x4 wheel (on right) but NO GO.. still to tight to spin on.

I took the 1/4-28 tap and tried to screw it in the old one and no go.. which tells me that is not the correct size threads.

SO i need to know what is the size of the threads to have this spin on like most of the other type. (wish i would have know this before buying I would have passed on it. )

 

Vendor should of send you a correct threaded wheel instead of telling you to tap the thread. As for your problem i dont know what to say.

 

How are you trying to install it? How are you keeping the shaft from spinning? I had to hold the shaft by the exhaust turbine on the few I have done.

 

I went out and looked at my old comp wheel from when I rebuilt mine with the RiffRaff 4x4 wheel and it is threaded 1/4-28. When your tap wouldn't thread into your old wheel, was it a 'little thread then tight' deal or would it not sit correctly and begin chasing? Also, if you have a small burr or buggered thread at the end of the threaded portion of your wheel, I'd recommend you hit it with a bottoming tap vs the one you are using (assuming the one you have is a normal plug tap). This will allow nearly all of the threads to be chased without risking the taper on the plug tap scoring any walls - not sure what the nominal size of the bore is. If the bore is less than 0.249" or so, you may run into scoring issues.

IIRC I was reading where another user had to give their wheel a small bump down onto the shaft to get the wheel to begin threading correctly, methinks they had a small chip on the bottom of the threads.

 

 

trying to avoid removing the exhaust pipe as it tight as hell in there as it is. The other WW would spin on by hand. there are no burrs on shaft or in bore. I did run the tap all the way down as far as i could and it spins smooth and easy with my fingers turning the tap after i chased the threads. Not sure why the threads need to be so tight. When they get on it will self tighten on the shaft and seat.

I was able to pop off the OEM wheel with my air torque wrench and put the new (old) one one. This one will not spin on it seem without holding the exhaust side of turbo wheel. They are not that tight from the factory so why is this one?? I did read on one review someone else had a problem and was told to use a torch on it. I did try that method and it was still tight as heck. Might try the heat method again after the thread chase and see how it goes.

 

Listen to duck fan. He absolutely knows what he is talking about in this instance.

 

ummmmm trying not be a **** here but you are doing exactly the opposite of what all the written instructions from vendors that sell compressor wheels say to do. I am not sure what an "air torque wrench" is but it sounds like a fancy impact which is advised not to use to remove the old wheel.

 

I believe ExPaCamper had this problem as well, sent it back and got another one. Where did you get it from?

 

ExPaCamper did have this problem.

I did not have this problem from the same vendor as ExPaCamper.

Although, I do remember the fit being very tight like Duck Fan mentioned. After realizing that it would not spin on by hand, I was sure to lock/brace the turbine side with a pair of vice grips on the shaft of the wheel (not the blades) and then made sure the new billet wheel was aligned properly. With a socket and small ratchet it started and then threaded on just fine. It was a bit unnerving at first, but it was a tight fit and works well.

My wheel is the billet 4/4 from RiffRaff.

 

Being a 4+4 wheel, I'd guess it's a Riff Raff.

Having tight threads is a good thing in my opinion as long as the threads aren't so tight that they get galled during install.
Aluminum has a higher thermal expansion rate than the shaft and we know the byproduct of compressing air is heat...

 

yes it is a 4+4 wheel.. the other wheel (old one) in photo is a 5+5 WW which is alum and was able to spin on by hand. It was not a problem during the time i used it which was for some 15 months and 5K miles so having a tight thread is not really necessary.. like i said the factory wheel was not a tight thread as i remember neither was the 5+5 wheel when i installed it.

I might give the heat it up and try to spin on or put it up for sale CHEAP and get something else.

Trying to AVOID removing the turbo and all the **** that entails.

 

I call DIBS on CHEAP!
Shoot me a PM if you decide...

 

I will take it if you don't want it. But in all seriousness, I would suggest doing the job right or hiring someone. There is a reason all reputable manufacturers say pull the turbo and do it right...

 

how much do you suspect it might cost to have someone, install it with all the stuff, including old wheel off. If I would have know BEFORE buying the wheel I would have 1.) not bought it, or 2.) ??. I did a full turbo remove to replace bearings, 360's, replace o-ring, repipe fuel lines, etc. so not wanting to redo all that again.

I found an old picture of turbo off and see the EBPV flap is in the way of the vanes on exhaust side which make trying to do this on if impossible.

still trying to figure out what the proper size tap needed to get the wheel to spin on by hand.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...uild-ebpv.html post #9