351w Idle problems
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,047
Likes: 63
Glad you found your vacuum leak.
What’s wrong with EGR? Personally I see a lot of benefits; engine cooling, better mileage, and the ability to carry more vacuum advance.
And speaking of vacuum advance I run manifold with EGR. Crusing down the highway under light throttle the EGR is open and the vacuum advance is all in. Crazy as it sounds, at idle I’m 10* base spark advance + another 15* vacuum advance with the idle speed and mixture set accordingly. Throttle response is crisp off the line and the vacuum advance fades right out under throttle so there’s no pinging.
If if you want to start modifying the emissions I suggest you try manifold vacuum advance before eliminating the EGR.
What’s wrong with EGR? Personally I see a lot of benefits; engine cooling, better mileage, and the ability to carry more vacuum advance.
And speaking of vacuum advance I run manifold with EGR. Crusing down the highway under light throttle the EGR is open and the vacuum advance is all in. Crazy as it sounds, at idle I’m 10* base spark advance + another 15* vacuum advance with the idle speed and mixture set accordingly. Throttle response is crisp off the line and the vacuum advance fades right out under throttle so there’s no pinging.
If if you want to start modifying the emissions I suggest you try manifold vacuum advance before eliminating the EGR.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 233
Likes: 2
From: Puyallup, WA
This thing has already been tore into by someone else. All the emissions is disabled currently. I am now faced with keep it disabled, or add it back in...
I already have a vacuum line going from the front of the carb to the vacuum advance. Is that what you're talking about?
I already have a vacuum line going from the front of the carb to the vacuum advance. Is that what you're talking about?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,047
Likes: 63
This thing has already been tore into by someone else. All the emissions is disabled currently. I am now faced with keep it disabled, or add it back in...
I already have a vacuum line going from the front of the carb to the vacuum advance. Is that what you're talking about?
I already have a vacuum line going from the front of the carb to the vacuum advance. Is that what you're talking about?
There are many layers to the onion.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
Likes: 121
From: St Albert, Alberta
Sounds right to me also the should be manifold vacuum.
Ported for the Dist should be on the passenger side of the carb base plate just in front of the choke assy.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,965
Likes: 2,725
From: Virginia
Unless you want to do a bunch of re-tuning on the engine, I would leave the distributor on ported vacuum which would be no vacuum at idle on the distributor.
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 233
Likes: 2
From: Puyallup, WA
Well I haven't changed where this dist was connected to the carb. I'll check vacuum on this line at idle again. If I remember correctly it wouldn't go below 3-5.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 233
Likes: 2
From: Puyallup, WA
Its running like crap again today, I think because its cold. I'm going to replace the carb gaskets and retune. How do I find my total advance? I can't really read the timing marks very well. I've marked 10 for the idle timing, but I was hoping to check the advance timing too.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Originally Posted by Jghake
Its running like crap again today, I think because its cold. I'm going to replace the carb gaskets and retune. How do I find my total advance? I can't really read the timing marks very well. I've marked 10 for the idle timing, but I was hoping to check the advance timing too.
http://gofastforless.com/ignition/advance.htm
It explains the routine really well. Run it up in neutral with a timing light and see where it tops out at.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 233
Likes: 2
From: Puyallup, WA
So I have been fighting this since I bought it. I've been able to use it a few days and it will run just fine, then the next it runs like a pig again.
I pulled the carb off this weekend and did a visual inspection of the inside. The previous owner told me it had been rebuilt, and it looks like it has been recent.
The truck runs great above 1500 RPM. It pulls up hills well, shifts well, and drives well. It is only when I come to a stop that I start having issues.
Now my question to everyone is, I was gifted an Edelbrock 1406 with an electric choke. It has been sitting for a while and will 100% need rebuild as the butterfly valves are stuck and won't move at all. I found a cast iron 4 bbl intake off an 87 F150 with a 351w on Craigslist for $20. It isn't very convenient to meet up with the guy but it appears I could convert to a 4bbl for relatively cheap.
Does anyone have any input? Should I keep bashing at this truck with the Motocraft 2150 or should I start the conversion to the 4bbl?
I pulled the carb off this weekend and did a visual inspection of the inside. The previous owner told me it had been rebuilt, and it looks like it has been recent.
The truck runs great above 1500 RPM. It pulls up hills well, shifts well, and drives well. It is only when I come to a stop that I start having issues.
Now my question to everyone is, I was gifted an Edelbrock 1406 with an electric choke. It has been sitting for a while and will 100% need rebuild as the butterfly valves are stuck and won't move at all. I found a cast iron 4 bbl intake off an 87 F150 with a 351w on Craigslist for $20. It isn't very convenient to meet up with the guy but it appears I could convert to a 4bbl for relatively cheap.
Does anyone have any input? Should I keep bashing at this truck with the Motocraft 2150 or should I start the conversion to the 4bbl?
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,965
Likes: 2,725
From: Virginia
The 4bbl conversion is worth the time and effort to do. You definitely get more power from it, and the aftermarket carbs have more adjustment to them for different situations, and adapt better when emssions stuff is messed with. Who knows if it will cure any of your problems, but I would try it myself, with a rebuild of course.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 233
Likes: 2
From: Puyallup, WA
Should I look to see if my EEC is throwing any codes? I can't find the proper procedure to look for codes?
I am so sick of this truck not working... It needs to start pulling its weight soon...
Here is the intake for sale on Craigslist. I was told it was out of a running 87 F150 with a 351w. Should this work on my 83 351w?
I am so sick of this truck not working... It needs to start pulling its weight soon...
Here is the intake for sale on Craigslist. I was told it was out of a running 87 F150 with a 351w. Should this work on my 83 351w?
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,856
Likes: 4,106
From: Angier, NC
First I would give the carb a rebuild to see if it will take or not.
If it will not take, free up, you are only out the rebuild kit $ before going for a intake.
Now this intake there is no way I would install a heavy stock 4v intake mostly because it is HEAVY!
You should be able to find a alum. after market one cheap.
I would look for Edelbrock performer intake. It is lighter so you will not hurt yourself lifting it over the fender and it should give a little boost over the stock one too.
If you don't want to swap intakes look for a Holley 2300 v2 in the 500 cfm size it will bolt right on to your intake and the stock air filter should fit too.
I did this swap, Holley 2300 v2 500 cfm for the stock Motorcraft 2150 on a 304 AMC v8 and was the best thing I ever did to that motor.
Unless you looked real close you could not tell with the stock air filter in place.
Dave ----
If it will not take, free up, you are only out the rebuild kit $ before going for a intake.
Now this intake there is no way I would install a heavy stock 4v intake mostly because it is HEAVY!
You should be able to find a alum. after market one cheap.
I would look for Edelbrock performer intake. It is lighter so you will not hurt yourself lifting it over the fender and it should give a little boost over the stock one too.
If you don't want to swap intakes look for a Holley 2300 v2 in the 500 cfm size it will bolt right on to your intake and the stock air filter should fit too.
I did this swap, Holley 2300 v2 500 cfm for the stock Motorcraft 2150 on a 304 AMC v8 and was the best thing I ever did to that motor.
Unless you looked real close you could not tell with the stock air filter in place.
Dave ----