So my clutch has started to slip when I step on the go fast pedal around 2K and above rpms. Trucks got 180/30 injectors, a D66 turbo, 6637 intake and 5 inch exhaust, idk what HP the truck makes. My dad put this LUK clutch in 2 years ago only has 30k on it and it obviously can’t support this HP.

To start with, what HP am I around? I typically drive the truck unloaded and tow a 4500lb boat/trailer once a week. I don’t want to spend 1200 dollars on a dual disc, single discs only. Any brand other than SBC I should look at? And what’s a normal amount to pay to have a clutch put in/could I put it without using a lift.

My trucks done with HP mods, next thing that’ll add the most HP is up pipes, mine leak like a civ. TIA.

 

I swapped out my clutch in my driveway without even jacking the truck up.
Used a $99 Harbor freight tranny jack, (screw/scissor type).
The plan was to get everything unbolted and tranny down then jack the truck to the tranny out so I had room to work.
There was enough room just rolling the tranny back for me to replace the clutch so the truck never left the ground.
My truck is 2wd so no transfer case to deal with, btw.

I went with the SBC 1944-60K-HD full organic.
Next step up is the 1944-6OFEK.

Valair is another I was looking at.

 

 

I had a South Bend 1939 OHD installed and am very happy with it. Flywheel was machined prior to install.

Another possibility is that the clutch could be contaminated with oil or fuel that may have leaked from the top. Some of us have a drain pipe from the valley hole down the side of the case leading to the drain at the bottom.

 

 

I drive mine up on blocks to add a little room under there for myself, I am surprised that nobody else and suggested this yet. I have a lot of lumber laying around but if you don't get some 2"x8" or 2"x10" and cut it into 4', 3' and 2' lengths or so and make staircase like ramp out of them. I am thinking that up pipes might be easier to do while that trans is out and you might want to do both at the same time. I would definitely add that drain tube that was added to Sous' truck too.

 

You have to pick what you feel in your heart is the best fit for your application. I selected the 1939OHD due to the surface area of the friction material being wider than most other applications that are available. Also, the SB clutch is the only one that SkySkiJason recommend and he has been working on ZF6 trucks for a very long time.

Lastly, the 1939OHD met my HP/TQ requirements by a good margin and has since been a solid performer towing our 12K lbs 5th across the country.

Do what is right for you, it is your money, time and truck. We can only offer our experiences and advice, which are on the internet and could be complete BS.

 

I constantly worry about leaking oil onto my clutch/flywheel because, well, these trucks are just ****ty and leak a lot. I have never actually read a documented case of this happening, however.

I did not install a copper line, as my clutch install was pretty done pretty hastily by a shop. However, I would have, had I read about it at the time. But realistically, is this even an issue? Have you ever read of a clutch failure due to oil leaks on a 7.3? I'm just wondering if it's even worth fussing over.

 

Is it an issue? Not sure but I was grateful that Jason went the extra mile and did the mod for us.

Is it possible for oil/fuel contamination? I am willing to bet it is, but I have never had one apart and seen contamination. We took Jason's word that the contamination can be an issue and that this would take care of that potential problem.

I could see that the amount of fluid required in order to contaminate the clutch would be high. Although, I had a 90 PSI fuel leak in the valley. I had a slow oil leak in the valley that I rinsed clean with Simple Green and a low pressure water hose. I bet that while the water mixed with oil, dirt and whatever else could possibly get onto the clutch. Again, I don't know this for fact, but am grateful the job was done.

Don't take this the wrong way, but perhaps you should look at selling your truck. Most of the posts you write are directed toward your hatred, frustration or disgust with something on the truck. You seem to waste a lot of time and energy being upset with the truck. It is a nearly 20 year old diesel truck that has probably worked hard most of its life. Maybe the 2000 7.3 is not right for you. If you don't need a diesel, perhaps look into a newer gasoline truck. If you need a diesel, maybe look at a Chevy or Dodge. They all have their problems though.

I bought my truck because it was the only thing I could afford that I could make reliable based on the reputation. That is where it is at now. It needed a lot of love and care, but I have driven it cross country a couple of times towing a camper since buying it 4 years ago. It is what it is and that is a 20 year old truck (almost).

 

My truck, specifically, was way worse than most. Lesson learned: I could have (and should have) spent 15k up front on a clean one that needed zero/minor work rather than $4k on an abused one that needed a lot of work. I've easily spent over $20k fixing/modifying this thing and it is a whole lot better and runs a lot nicer but there is no way I could sell and get back even half of what I have in it.. I am keeping this stinky, leaking, unreliable POS forever

 

Understood, I just hate to see people fight an uphill battle thinking that the next crest would be the one that makes them happy with what they have. I wish you the best of luck in getting your truck running the way you want. Based on your signature, I can tell you are well on your way.

 

Hey Sous,

Well my clutch is slipping after yet *another* oil leak. Do you have any more info on how to do this modification? I will be adding a copper tube for sure this time but want to get it right. It looks pretty straight forward but from other pics I have seen, it looks like a hole may need to be drilled? Can you confirm? Is there a write-up out there anywhere? (I searched but came up short)

Thanks in advance,

 

I saw your other post concerning a shop in Denver, and the address for the engineer that designed the valley drain. I got a good laugh from the second part.

I have no information about the model/tube other than the pictures and comments you have already seen. I didn't even know that was a thing until Jason sent us a picture of the clutch going in and mentioned the drain tube. This was a brilliant idea in my opinion and we showed or gratitude for his efforts when we picked up the truck.

It makes sense to add the pipe and as to why my issues were compounded by several engine baths.

Keep us posted on how you get along with the model and take notes so that future members like you can follow in your footsteps.

 

No holes need to be drilled for the drain tube.

As you know, there is a hole in the valley. A 1/2" copper elbow fits just about perfect in the hole.
There is also a hole in the bottom of the block that a 1/2" copper pipe just about fits into.

In Sous' pic above showing the drain tube, the hole is directly below it.
I made my tube long and then kept cutting a little at a time until I could wedge it in tight and get it into the hole..

 

Awesome, thanks man!

Did you solder it to the 90* elbow or consider brazing the ends to the block to seal it up 100%?