While I'm waiting for the truck to cool down to do the thermostat, I only have one more thing to address in a long series. While installing the new valve cover gasket, I found a broken connector to the driver's side windshield washer nozzle. I replaced the connector with one from my shelf and zip tied the ends. When I went to try it, it sprays but acts clogged although I guess it could be low pressure. It sprays pretty far at first before it drizzles more out of one side of the nozzle There is no leak at the replaced connector and the passenger side sprays perfectly. I'm not sure if part of the old connector somehow made it's way through even though I attempted to clean it out. It could have already been clogged, but my dad didn't seem to remember an issue with it. I wanted to take it out but can't see the tabs on the front bottom of the cowl.

There is a FIRMLY in place what I assume to be a grommet. I didn't want to pull too hard on it and tear it since the truck is not mine. What I did find odd is that the line from the connector to the driver's side is larger than the supply line to the connector. The FSM doesn't give anything on it that I could find, so I wanted to see if anyone had any ideas. Pictures of the replacement nozzle seem to indicate that there is one tab on the forward side of the nozzle toward the engine.

If it were mine, I'd cut the grommet out to expose and replace it all. But since it's my dad's, I didn't want to do it without having a replacement on hand and leave him with both sides inoperative. I just wanted to spray the line out with compressed air and maybe clean the nozzle.

At least it appears I'm down to very minor issues that were on the list. I'd now drive this truck on my 100+ mile daily commute.

 

I don't see where a specific question is being asked but I will mention that the RH washer nozzle, since the day my Ranger was new, never did put out the best of spray patterns. Finally a few years ago I replaced it with q new, OEM Motorcraft part (an assembly consisting of the RH nozzle, short length of hose, rubber grommet and a piece of tape indexing the hose position relative to the grommet). Guess what? $15 and maybe 30 minutes later, no change at all in the spray pattern. The other thing in your post that I noticed is mention of "different sizes" of tubing. Realizing that the fluid flow rate is insignificant in those hoses and that two different hoses can have the same (or thereabouts) inside diameters yet have different outer diameters, it's safe to say that variations in hose size are not a contributor. Best anyone can do is make sure the nozzle is clean and move forward. And........once in a while over the life of a vehicle, it's not a bad idea to flush the tank and lines in the name of starving off an unexpected dirt restriction.

 

just to throw this out there. I have had problems with ants getting in my windshield washer fluid, dying, and clogging up the pump. I finally reached the point where I installed an inline (fuel) filter for them and it solved the problem of them getting clogged.

 

Thanks for the replies. How do I get the nozzle out? I wasn't sure and didn't want to damage anything since it wasn't mine. Will the grommet below the cowl pull out from below to expose the tabs? I pulled on it and it felt like it wanted to tear before coming out. It could just be stuck with age.

The ant filter. LOL. Good idea.

 

Might need to go in via the access door although removal isn't really needed to clean it.

 

with mine "pre ant filter" I would unhook the water line and blow air back from the nozzles with an air compressor to clear them, then re hook up and activate the washers. After several times of that it would get all the dead ant out (i almost made a pink panther reference there).