Water temp gauge install
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 186
Likes: 1
From: Voorhees NJ
Water temp gauge install
Where is the best location to install bulb for aftermarket water temp gauge? I want to retain the factory gauge, but want to see numbers rather than judging temp. 351m with a performer 2171 intake manifold. Thanks in advance for any help
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
Likes: 19
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
I want to install bullet-connectors to my gauges for the backlight/headlamp circuit... just not sure how I want to do it. Suggestions?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 230
From: Amarillo, TX
Think you are referring to the "Bulb" looking end of a mechanical temp probe. My stock water neck had 2 bungs with plugs in them that could be used - not sure if you have the same one, but I'm sure you could buy.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
I cut/spliced/soldered followed by heat-shrink tubing; I had some wiring left over from a previous junkyard visit and so I was able to extend the circuit using wire of the same colors as the factory used.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
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From: Regina, Saskatchewan
How many gauge lights did you splice into the factory wire?
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
I added 4 aftermarket gauges, that was after having added an optional factory accessory wire harness that included a lamp for the ashtray (same dimmable circuit) as well as footwell lamps (different circuit).
The amperage draw from a single dash/gauge bulb is really tiny, and I seem to remember the circuit is protected with a 5A fuse. If you want to be a true nerd, you'd calculate the total amperage draw of all devices and come up with precise measurements of how much extra draw will be added and determine if the wiring can handle it. I figured that's too much work and there's enough extra capacity built into the circuit to handle this, and so I just went with it.
The amperage draw from a single dash/gauge bulb is really tiny, and I seem to remember the circuit is protected with a 5A fuse. If you want to be a true nerd, you'd calculate the total amperage draw of all devices and come up with precise measurements of how much extra draw will be added and determine if the wiring can handle it. I figured that's too much work and there's enough extra capacity built into the circuit to handle this, and so I just went with it.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
Likes: 19
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
Very cool. Now I'm trying to thing of the best way to splice the blue / red-strip wire to be able to disconnect gauges from the dimmable headlamp circuit.
I'm thinking a single connector instead of hard-wiring everything with solder. Easier to remove, modify, change in the future. Not ideal, but could work.
Something like this: https://www.agritronixcorp.com/delph...-plug-kit.html
I'm thinking a single connector instead of hard-wiring everything with solder. Easier to remove, modify, change in the future. Not ideal, but could work.
Something like this: https://www.agritronixcorp.com/delph...-plug-kit.html
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Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Those WeatherPack things are pretty decent connectors, they'd be a good choice.
I don't remember exactly what I did to hook up my gauges but I doubt it was anything as complete as connectors like you're thinking of. But your idea is a good one, it will allow you to remove a single gauge - or maybe the entire bezel - for whatever reason if needed (depending on how you do it). I like your original idea of the bullet connectors, too, that can also work. Being an interior environment, there isn't as much concern about corrosion resulting from water.
I watched a friend of mine install some of those WeatherPack things on the wiring of late-model Corvette seats he's installing in his 1971 (or 2?) Camaro. These seats have built-in air bags and some sort of funky hydraulic system all controlled by multiple modules and lots of wiring; he is using only the wiring for the motors & heaters, the remainder has been removed.
Anyhow, I like your idea of making the gauges easily disconnectable, I'm not sure if I did that or not.
I don't remember exactly what I did to hook up my gauges but I doubt it was anything as complete as connectors like you're thinking of. But your idea is a good one, it will allow you to remove a single gauge - or maybe the entire bezel - for whatever reason if needed (depending on how you do it). I like your original idea of the bullet connectors, too, that can also work. Being an interior environment, there isn't as much concern about corrosion resulting from water.
I watched a friend of mine install some of those WeatherPack things on the wiring of late-model Corvette seats he's installing in his 1971 (or 2?) Camaro. These seats have built-in air bags and some sort of funky hydraulic system all controlled by multiple modules and lots of wiring; he is using only the wiring for the motors & heaters, the remainder has been removed.
Anyhow, I like your idea of making the gauges easily disconnectable, I'm not sure if I did that or not.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,922
Likes: 153
I wouldn't put one in the thermostat housing because you would be taking the reading after the thermostat, so until it opens you wont be getting a accurate reading.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 186
Likes: 1
From: Voorhees NJ
Was able to locate the plug in water pump and installed the sensing bulb in there. As far as light bulb connection, I had previously had a column mounted tach and was smart enough to keep the wire for the dash lights accessible. I just connected the gauge light to that with a little extra lead wires with butt connectors and if I need to get the dash, the bulbs will pull out easily. I changed over my dash lights to LED’s and will be changing the gauge to LED too. Big difference!!!!
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
Likes: 19
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
Thread highjack almost over lol. All really good info tho. I've heard those delphi weatherpacks are the cats meow when it comes to wiring. A lot of folks have switched their 67-79 trucks over to those style connectors just because they're waterproof and fairly sturdy. Very clean-looking too.
I had never thought about the water temp / thermostat housing. Completely forgot about the t-stat opening/closing lol.
I should probably move my water temp gauge to the water pump port before I fire up my motor... so glad I highjacked this thread! lol
I had never thought about the water temp / thermostat housing. Completely forgot about the t-stat opening/closing lol.
I should probably move my water temp gauge to the water pump port before I fire up my motor... so glad I highjacked this thread! lol
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