When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am stumped. My truck died on me a couple weeks ago and I've been scowering threads trying to figure out the problem. First thing I did was change CPS, then changed the IPR, changed the oil, now after changing the ICP I am stumped. Here's a screenshot from AE during last starting attempt.
I read that the voltage should be 10.5 volts, I took this after cranking for quite a while, I'm sure the voltage was over this when I first started cranking. The first 2 windows were fluctuating and hitting over .85 volts and around 500 psi.
Last year my HPOP was replaced, ICP, IPR,and CPS. I was 1000 miles from home, everything looks like after market except maybe the HPOP, that's why I am replacing with motorcraft parts now.
270k on the engine, 2002, nothing done to injectors, Oil gauge on dash takes several seconds before it indicates good pressure.
Stumped and frustrated, really need to have my truck running, not a lot of diesel mechs around here that I have faith in.
I'd **** on a hot wire if it would fix this truck. What can I check next? Working 72 hours a week presently so my time is limited but I need this baby running.
Thanks for listening
I had a similar issue with mine, replaced IPR, ICP, etc... came to find out that I had a bad fuel leak that caused it to not start, and when it did it loped bad.
Have you checked to make sure your fuel pump is working?
Just recently went through a no start situation after installing new injectors.
After trying a barage of diagnostics, found the insulation crumbling off the IPR pigtail.
Wires touching each other and shooting my IPR duty cycle to 97%.
Yours is up there too. Around 65% should be fully closed I think...
I found it by checking continuity between the IPR pigtail pins and the 42 pin connector.
If I remember right, pin 24 is positive, red wire and pin 25 is the switched negative, yellow/red wire.
When I tested, I stuck a probe in the pigtail connector on the red wire and the other on pin 24. Got continuity.
Then moved the probe to pin 25 which should have continuity with the yellow/red wire, and I still had connection to red.
At this point I started unwrapping the plastic loom and tape to look for the short.
found it right up closed to the pigtail connector.
With the wires touching, the PCM is commanding the IPR for more pressure but the solenoid isn't getting any juice so ICP wasn't getting high enough to fire the injectors.
I had a similar issue with mine, replaced IPR, ICP, etc... came to find out that I had a bad fuel leak that caused it to not start, and when it did it loped bad.
Have you checked to make sure your fuel pump is working?
Sorry, should have mentioned that the fuel bowl is full. Haven't been able to pick up new filter yet. Batteries were fully charged on the charger.
Oil level is good, just changed oil - after truck died. I had the truck towed back to my driveway, shop is full of other projects so I'm relegated to working in the driveway for now..
I'll remove the chip as well, 20 minute job I can do today after work. Since you're here ;-) and you're the AE expert, what option in the drop down window do I select to get AE to see the high fuel pressure, I swore I have done it before but it's been a while since I used AE. I'm reading your AE class thread in between jobs at work but retaining everything that I'm reading is a bit overwhelming.
Presently working 12 hours days but as soon as I can I'll check wiring and do a Cody test. (I'll read up on that).
There is no fuel pressure sensor on the truck, I bought an analog gauge to read that - along with two pyrometers. The closest you get to "high fuel pressure" sensor is the ICP, and you have that. The Fuel Pulse Width #1 is a bogus reading, you want Injector Pulse Width. Use just one PID per sensor - like ICP PSI instead of ICP volts - PSI is a calculation based on the volts. I have no idea what electronic pressure control is - 15 is such an odd number. BARO is not needed to troubleshoot a no-start. It's just used to verify EBP and MAP sensor accuracy - a whole different test parameter.
After combing through many other threads describing fuel pressure related issues I realize that I may have shot myself in the foot. In the process of replacing the IPR I think I put the coil on backwards. Yes, I'm aware that I am an idiot. Admitting that is the first step to recovery I'm told.
When I get home tonight I'll be sure to 'check and correct' and post back results. If that doesn't fix it then I'll perform previously given advice.
I must be missing something, but if the screen shot was taken while trying to start I see zero fuel pressure. The pump is electric so there should be ~60 PSI whether the engine is running or not.
I must be missing something, but if the screen shot was taken while trying to start I see zero fuel pressure. The pump is electric so there should be ~60 PSI whether the engine is running or not.
That screen shot only has 417 for icp. PCM wants to see at least 500 to fire. You said you've seen around 500, may not be be getting enough icp. Change your settings on AE, charge batteries, and try again. We'll go from there.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
