Got my new injectors this past week and installed them on the weekend.

Full Force single shot 180/0
TS 6 position chip
Riff Raff FPX
Strictly Diesel Dieselsite HPX
Riff Raff Banjo Bolts

Parts arrived on Tues.
Installed the HPX on Wed. and fired up/checked for leaks. Ran fine.
Installed the FPX on Thurs. and fired up/checked for leaks. Ran fine.
Had a Diablo Predator tuner. Put tune back to stock on Fri. Started and ran fine.
Installed the injectors, chip and banjo bolts on Sat. and she cranks but no start.
Killed the batteries. Went and picked up 2 new ones.
Cranks and no start.

Hooked up ForScan.
Buzz test the injectors and they all fire and sound good.
ICP is only getting to about 200psi.
Cracked open the HPX fittings and bled the oil system by jumping the starter solenoid, key off.
Good oil flow from the HPX fittings. Tightened everything back up.

Unplugged the ICP sensor. ForScan shows over 2100psi ICP while cranking.
Checked oil level. Good
Checked oil level in HPOP res. Good.
Checked fuel bowl. Clean fuel, no oil mixing.

Pulled the chip.
Cranks but no start. ICP still around 195-200psi
Disconnected ICP sensor. Shows 2100+psi
Put the chip back in.

Checked main harness connector on driver valve cover. Good.

Pulled the valve covers off and checked across injector tops with a straight edge.
All are seated with no visible gaps between them.
Disconnected and removed the glow plugs.
Jumped the starter solenoid and cranked for 20 second intervals with a couple minute cool downs for the starter in between.
Did this about 5-6 times.
Put the glow plugs back in and buttoned everything up.
Cranks and no start and like before, ICP on Forscan shows 195-200psi.

Checked connector on the IPR. Good
Got another IPR from a buddy yesterday, (believed good).
Swapped the IPR and still crank-no start. ICP at 200psi.

Called Full Force yesterday but it was near end of day.
Waiting for a call back from them.

At a loss here.
Really hope I don't have to pull the injectors out but I fear it's not looking good.

 

With the valve cover off, have someone crank it while you watch to see which one is dumping the oil.

 

Agree, pull valve covers. Also check that all injectors are fully seated.

 

Not fun but it was the last thing done before it quit running. Like these guys said pull the valve covers and crank. maybe the bad one is just an o-ring that rolled and it will show it's self.

 

Injectors were checked with a straight edge across all 4 on each side.
No gaps on any of the solenoids

Got a call back from Full Force.
They suggest removing the valve covers and checking for a leaking o-ring or stuck injector poppet


Going to try to get out of work early to get on this.
I have someone coming over to help out and my plan is to have it stripped down and ready to crank when he shows up.

If I understand right...
If a top o-ring is damaged, oil should come out under the hold down clamp.
If the middle o-ring is damaged, oil would mix with the fuel and return to the bowl. (Bowl was checked previously and clean. No oil just clean green fuel)
If an injector poppet valve is stuck, oil should flow out of the deflector spout

 

What year truck? You can crank yourself from under the hood.

If you have an 01 or 02 you can pull one wire loose and touch it to ground. See the video attached. It's for 6.0 trouble shooting but start watching at about 45 seconds. The later 7.3's have the same wire.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XCwQ9Q3KEaM

If you have an earlier truck like mine you can jump the starter solenoid or get a cheap remote switch at horror freight

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-remote-starter-switch-35448.html

Got mine when I was compression testing but it does come in handy

 

I got home from work and had everything stripped down including glow plugs out in just under 1 hour.

My buddy came over to help with cranking so I could look for leaks and while waiting for him I cleaned around the injectors and noticed something different about 1 injector.
The oil discharge hole that should line up with the deflector spout, doesn't...
Basically, if you hold an injector upright with the electrical connector facing you, the oil hole should be to the right of center. This 1 has the hole to the left of center.


Now I'm thinking, this is it! I got a FUBAR injector!
Called Full Force and sent them a picture. They said their best guess is that that poppet plate was drilled wrong during manufacturing. It is impossible to assemble that plate upside down onto the injector body as the 4 bolt holes are counter bored to recess the bolts.
I pulled a coil off 1 of my old injectors and confirmed as I didn't want to believe it.


Well, cranked her over looking for oil leakage or oil dumping from a deflector spout. Found none.
Cranked for 20-30 second intervals with cool down periods for the starter and it was starting to smell a little. Put a fan underneath it to help keep it cool but it looks like I'll be replacing that soon.


Going to call Full Force back again today to discuss "our" next step.
Also trying to find a hydraulic shop so I can piece together some fitting to deadhead test the HPOP.

 

 

Talked to Full Force again today about that injector.
They assured me that it makes no difference other than draining the oil onto the head and it will return to the crankcase via the drain hole at the back of the head.
I told him I'd feel better with a replacement injector and they agreed to send out another after I get this figured out and the truck starts.

I picked up fittings and a gauge to deadhead test the pump at Eaton.
They had some STC stuff in stock and with a few adapters I was able to piece together everything needed.
Got home from work and tested the pump.






Confirmed that the pump is only putting out 200psi on the gauge.

It was too late to call Full Force back to give them the results so I'll call them when they open tomorrow.


Started removing the HPOP.
Removed the fuel bowl, drained the HPOP reservoir with a hand vacuum pump, (figured the res would drain when I pull the pump).
Drained the radiator removed the drive gear bolt cover.
Need to pick up a six point socket for the bolt. I don't trust a 12 point for high torque and the way my luck is going, I'd strip that d**m bolt.
I ran out of daylight so I packed it in for the night.

Now to figure out what or who to get an HPOP from...
...read a bunch of bad reviews on reman pumps from the chain stores.
My budget is pretty well blown at this point and I need to find something that I don't have to sell a kidney for.

 

Is it the pump, or is the IPR stuck open?

 

think you need to do cody test first before replacing HPOP

 

IPR has been replaced with one that is "believed" good.
Got it from a friend of a friend who works at a local diesel shop.

 

I had ruled out the Cody test after verifying no leakage from any of the top O-rings, no oil discharging from the spouts, and no oil mixing with the fuel in the bowl.
I'll have to read up on it some more...

 

Bosch HPOP is OEM and will be your best bet in the way of a more affordable pump that will last. Other than that, your choices are CNC Fabrication or Adrenaline.

Are the injectors new or remanufactured from FFD? Good to hear they are working with you.

 

Injectors are reman 180/0 single shots.

I'm leaning toward the Bosch pump also as it's readily available from most vendors.

Full Force has been great thru all of this.
I'm been in contact with them by phone, (and email during closed hours,) and they're committed to seeing this thru.