When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Anyone know a good fuel kit with everything under 1k I don't mind putting in injectors and a legit fuel set up. But it's it's not the fuel then I'm screwed outta 2k unless swamps has a return policy and whoever I get the pump from
It won't load my video otherwise I would upload it
Think you need to upload it to YouTube then link it here. I'm sure you can use other sites as well.
Originally Posted by Mikefrfd
Anyone know a good fuel kit with everything under 1k I don't mind putting in injectors and a legit fuel set up. But it's it's not the fuel then I'm screwed outta 2k unless swamps has a return policy and whoever I get the pump from
That does not sound good on the configuration. The mechanical pump in the valley is a two stage pump. The upper portion pulls fuel from the tank and sends it to the filter bowl under about 7 PSI. The lower stage pressurizes the filtered fuel from the bowl to the rear heads to about 50 PSI or more. Two fuel lines from the front of the heads go back to the fuel bowl to the fuel regulator which goes back to the tanks.
There are lots of kit out there, depending on your wallet. I've only installed two different ones so can't comment on others available.
Bar None diesel makes an inexpensive kit and it worked well. I did have some issues with connectors leaking but the actual pump - filters on the rail were top notch.
Second go around I bit the bullet and went with the Strictly Diesel kit, more money but really top quality all around. but you do need to remove the turbo to access the drivers side rear fuel port.
Think you need to upload it to YouTube then link it here. I'm sure you can use other sites as well.
That does not sound good on the configuration. The mechanical pump in the valley is a two stage pump. The upper portion pulls fuel from the tank and sends it to the filter bowl under about 7 PSI. The lower stage pressurizes the filtered fuel from the bowl to the rear heads to about 50 PSI or more. Two fuel lines from the front of the heads go back to the fuel bowl to the fuel regulator which goes back to the tanks.
There are lots of kit out there, depending on your wallet. I've only installed two different ones so can't comment on others available.
Bar None diesel makes an inexpensive kit and it worked well. I did have some issues with connectors leaking but the actual pump - filters on the rail were top notch.
Second go around I bit the bullet and went with the Strictly Diesel kit, more money but really top quality all around. but you do need to remove the turbo to access the drivers side rear fuel port.
whats the benefit of strictly diesel. I already found the bar non and for the same price as strictly diesel I can get stainless up pipes while it's all apart wich I like. What's the differences between the kits.
And I also found out it has the stock flywheel:/ so I think I'm gonna do that soon. I work 7 days a week so finding time is very difficult. And my f150 spit a plug and messed up the head so I'm juggling projects right now. Very difficult
IF you do have the duel mass fly wheel it could be the knock see knottyrope post # 3. That should be first on list of to do I would think. The home made fuel system may be one where they used a 99 up superduty pump and fuel bowl . I have only read about these systems so I have know personal knowledge. If so you should be able to get fuel pressure reading at the fuel bowl. How did you verify the duel mass stock fly wheel?
whats the benefit of strictly diesel. I already found the bar non and for the same price as strictly diesel I can get stainless up pipes while it's all apart wich I like. What's the differences between the kits.
Bar None is easier to install. It utilizes most of the original fuel lines but they do need to be cut where the filter pack and pump are on the frame and in the engine valley. Turbo removal is not necessary. Instead it uses the original banjo bolt at the rear of the pump and the two y shaped fuel lines going to the back of the heads. Since your fuel pump is still in place I'm not sure how the PO plumbed it in. I did not like the fuel regulator bracket because it was kinda flimsy and bent easily, but you could make your own, it's just a bracket. It's fairly easy to install in a day or so, easier and quicker with a helper. I'm not knocking it, it's a good product for the money. I just didn't like the overall look in the valley when it was done and the Ferrell type connectors, but they didn't leak. Had major leaks at the regulator connectors and finally had to use sealant on the threads.
Strictly Diesel, which is really a Driven Diesel product is more of a complete fuel system replacement. All new hoses from tank selector valve to engine bay. Turbo removal is necessary to access the drivers side rear port and rear ports are now return lines instead of supply lines. It's certainly more of a challenge to install and took me about 5 days by myself, but it took two days just to get the turbo removed. While the turbo was off I deleted the EBPV pedestal and installed the free flowing coupler from turbo exhaust to down pipe, just because I could. I also liked the fuel regulator being mounted on the alternator bracket and routing of hoses, out of the valley.
Bar None uses a fuel priming relay that starts when the engine cranks then oil presser switch takes over. Driven Diesel uses a time delay relay that activates for 20 seconds priming the heads before starting, like the SD's do. Both are good systems depending on your budget and your expectations. It's kinda, you get what you pay for. I'm not knocking or promoting either, just my experience with both.
So hopefully someone answers or can point me in the right direction cuz know I'm just clustered. So my truck has a 99 block, 99 fuel pump on frame rail, mechanical fuel pump, with no lobe, in the block, 97 heads and injectors. And a fuel bowl, maybe 97 maybe 99z So now what. How is there a mech pump in the 99 block?
It won't load my video otherwise I would upload it
Mike, just take a picture or two and upload it. Although video is good it's not required.
Originally Posted by Mikefrfd
So hopefully someone answers or can point me in the right direction cuz know I'm just clustered. So my truck has a 99 block, 99 fuel pump on frame rail, mechanical fuel pump, with no lobe, in the block, 97 heads and injectors. And a fuel bowl, maybe 97 maybe 99z So now what. How is there a mech pump in the 99 block?
Mike, take a deep breath and calm down. I don't think anyone has suggested you have that combination(s). It was just theory's and without additional information such as pictures it's hard to troubleshoot. If you need help uploading photos on this forum just ask. We need to see what you are dealing with.
Additionally, If you have a youtube account, just upload a video there, and post the link. I know there is a post limit you have to reach to upload images if you are blocked from doing it right now.
Additionally. I know I found a bit of help in a local diesel truck club. A local asset like that has helped me with a second set of eyes when I got wrench vision and couldn't work out an obvious problem, or needed a truck to look at to solve an issue.
If it wasn't for my job, id have gone to the last couple RRE events to meet all these guys.
Why take a deep breath lol I have other trucks I'm not stressing about this one lol. I know it has that combination because I found the owner that built it.
And a fuel bowl, maybe 97 maybe 99z So now what. How is there a mech pump in the 99 block?
Mike, I believe the hole is there for mechanical pump but no cam lobe to run it. If the pump is not connected in anyway you can remove it and plug the hole. That's what we do when converting to e-fuel.
Nothing wrong with SD fuel pump and SD fuel bowl filter combination. The SD's use a different style bowl and the look is pretty obvious, if that's what you have. Not trying to beat a dead horse here if your not interested but I'll see if I can find a picture if requested. Also the SD fuel plumbing is different where rear head ports are dead headed instead of fuel pressure supply lines. This causes injector #8 to knock and is normal (engineering bo-bo) because injector #6 and #8 fire sequentially causing some fuel starvation on injector #8. There are some fixes for it though.
If it looks anything like this you have a late model 7.3 fuel filter housing.
i converted my OBS to late 99 superduty everything, turbo, spider, plenums, up pipes, front timing cover, etc.
If it looks anything like this you have a late model 7.3 fuel filter housing.
i converted my OBS to late 99 superduty everything, turbo, spider, plenums, up pipes, front timing cover, etc.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
