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Old Apr 4, 2018 | 06:52 PM
  #1  
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302 Noise

I have a 302 just rebuilt, new bearings, oil pump, edelbrock cam & timing set, balanced rotating assembly, bored .030 over, edelbrock e street heads. Sounds okay until it warms up to about 150 degrees then I can here what sounds like a knock. I have listened all over with a stethoscope and can only here it real well in the upper area of the oil pan sump. Have checked starter, flexplate are and no noise. Let the engine set about 10 minutes to cool and start it up and no noise until warmed up. Oil pressure at 25-30 at idle and goes up to 55 when giving throttle. I have removed the rod caps and checked them and all looks good. When re-torquing the rod caps number 8 had one bolt that kept stretching when torquing to 24 lbs. Replaced rod bolts and have not installed oil pan yet and install engine. Wanted to check here ford some one else thoughts
 
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Old Apr 6, 2018 | 02:43 PM
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IMHO...you found the problem!
 
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Old Apr 6, 2018 | 09:11 PM
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I hope so. I installed new bearing assembled and put back in the chassis, will fire it up tomorrow.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2018 | 12:09 PM
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Did you check the main bearings ? If it was a bearing problem, it sounds more like a main bearing to me, not a rod bearing. Did you use a direct replacement rod bolt ? You can't just put a ARP in because they are bigger and will distort the rod bore.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2018 | 02:36 PM
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I used direct replacement bolt. Sound is back after warming up. Oil pressure is now holding at 47 psi at idle instead of 25-30. This noise is not a steady beat type of noise, it skips about every 3-4 knocks. I call it a knock for no better term. I pulled the main caps and they looked good. I have only run the engine about 1 hour trying to figure out what is going on. The new mechanical fuel pump makes a lot of racket when running. But I do not believe that is where it is coming from.
 
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Old May 15, 2018 | 07:45 PM
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Update

I tore the engine down and used plastigauge on the bearings and all are good. New edelbrock timing chain is stretched out and needs replaced after running about 6 gallons of gas. I do not no if it was just a defective timing chain or I need to look at another brand. I have heard discussions about new timing chains that are not consistent on how they fit. Block has not been aligned board that I know of. It came out of a 87 f150. When cleaning the head surfaces and rolled of them back over, there was a thin slice of what looked like a double wall 1/4 tubing lay on my work surface what would be the number eight cylinder. These are new edelbrock e-street heads. The only place I can see where it came from is if it was stuck in the valve spring from factory.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2018 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by mark a.
Did you check the main bearings ? If it was a bearing problem, it sounds more like a main bearing to me, not a rod bearing. Did you use a direct replacement rod bolt ? You can't just put a ARP in because they are bigger and will distort the rod bore.
No they won't. I did a whole set in an assembled 5.0 and ran it for two years afterwards, with a few trips to 7 grand. Main bearings don't knock at all.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2018 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Pokee
I used direct replacement bolt. Sound is back after warming up. Oil pressure is now holding at 47 psi at idle instead of 25-30. This noise is not a steady beat type of noise, it skips about every 3-4 knocks. I call it a knock for no better term. I pulled the main caps and they looked good. I have only run the engine about 1 hour trying to figure out what is going on. The new mechanical fuel pump makes a lot of racket when running. But I do not believe that is where it is coming from.
Should have installed a whole new set of ARP rod bolts. You can install them one by one with the engine assembled. Remove the old bolt, then tap the new in till it stops, the use the rod nut to draw it into place until the head bottoms out, then torque to spec. When done, go back and torque all to be sure they're all settled in place. That piece of tubing sounds like a piece of valve guide left over from machining. Should be bronze if so. Replacement timing set ? Just go get the stock double row roller chain set for a late 80's to 90s' 5.0 GT. I have one in my 331, been doin it's job for 14 years now. I think your noise is that fuel pump. Did you make sure the operating lever went under the eccentric when you installed it ?
 
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Old Jun 6, 2018 | 09:31 AM
  #9  
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302 Noise Update

I tore the motor down to bare block and checked everything. The only obvious thing wrong is the timing chain that is stretched out. I sent the timing set back to Edelbrock and have not heard a thing from them. I purchased a Cloyes timing set to put back in. The Edelbrock cam and lifters looked good but the the last few times I started the engine it had lifter noise on start up, so I'm replacing lifters with another brand and also installing a one piece fuel pump eccentric. I hope to have it back together and running by the weekend.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2018 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Pokee
I tore the motor down to bare block and checked everything. The only obvious thing wrong is the timing chain that is stretched out. I sent the timing set back to Edelbrock and have not heard a thing from them. I purchased a Cloyes timing set to put back in. The Edelbrock cam and lifters looked good but the the last few times I started the engine it had lifter noise on start up, so I'm replacing lifters with another brand and also installing a one piece fuel pump eccentric. I hope to have it back together and running by the weekend.
If those lifter's faces were worn, the cam lobes they were riding will be toast too.
 
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