Rod Bearing Help Needed!
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 166
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Rod Bearing Help Needed!
I'm chasing down a tick in my 1964 F100 223 engine that I believe is coming from a loose or worn rod bearing. I've drained the oil and removed the pan and have removed the 2 bolts from the connecting rod but I can't get it off to inspect the bearing. Any tricks to this? Also, according to my manual, I need .020 bearings. Is this something that changes over time? (say 50 years!) If yes, how do I figure out what size replacement bearing I need? I admit it, I might be a little over my head with this one...
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 166
Likes: 1
I just tried again and it slipped off nice and easy. Maybe it needed to cool down or maybe I was being too timid. Anyway, I checked my bearing for marks against the chart in the manual and everything looks good. Before I move on to the next rod, I just need to figure out if theres a recommended tension for these bolts. I figure I'll check every rod one at a time so I don't lose track of parts, etc.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 396
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On the 62 223 the rod cap's torque is 45ft lbs. On the back side of the bearing you should see a stamp which tells you if the bearing is an oversize. Be careful to maintain the correct cap orientation when you put it back on. You should find a stamp on the side of the bearing cap next to the rod bolt indicating which cap it is. Keep these stamp marks on the same side.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 14
From: Island Southeast Alaska
Keep your fingers off the face of the brg. The acid in your skin
will ruin it. I use white lithium to pre lube everything when
putting them back in. Do Not Reassemble Them Dry. Just motor
oil may not be enough. I would never put the old brg's back
in and run it. Always put in new when you can. They are cheap
compared to the price of throwing one threw the block. Also
being as your already in it this far put in a new quality oil pump
and a timing set would not hurt either. Then get a valve job done
on the head and install new lifters and you will be good to go
till the body falls off.
will ruin it. I use white lithium to pre lube everything when
putting them back in. Do Not Reassemble Them Dry. Just motor
oil may not be enough. I would never put the old brg's back
in and run it. Always put in new when you can. They are cheap
compared to the price of throwing one threw the block. Also
being as your already in it this far put in a new quality oil pump
and a timing set would not hurt either. Then get a valve job done
on the head and install new lifters and you will be good to go
till the body falls off.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 2,067
Likes: 138
From: tucson
It's been years since I rebuilt a motor, but I remember using plastiguage to check the bearing clearance. It was kind of a pain to torque everything down and then disassemble to check the readings.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,771
Likes: 80
From: tujunga, calif
It may be a pain but thats the only correct way to do it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,084
Likes: 94
From: Stanton, Michigan, USA
If I recall correctly, when using Plasticgage, the journal and bearings should be dry of ANY oil. In other words, it is tough to use when all you've done is drop the oil pan and rod cap. Reason being the Plasticgage will give you a "false reading" since you'd likely have residual motor oil taking up some of the clearance space on the top side of the rod journal.
Lastly, make sure you use 'fresh' Plastigage, as the old stuff will get hard and not give you as accurate reading.....
BarnieTrk
Lastly, make sure you use 'fresh' Plastigage, as the old stuff will get hard and not give you as accurate reading.....
BarnieTrk
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Post Fiend
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 166
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Well f$*K. I got some plastiguage and got a piece in place, no oil, no touchy, put it on, wrenched it down and before I could get it near the right tork, the passenger side bolt sheared off. I'm starting to think I shouldn't be wrenching on engines. I don't know what to do now. Buy and install a new piston arm? Look for a rebuilt engine? Buy a Prius? F$*k.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 2,067
Likes: 138
From: tucson
Broken bolt/stud extractor. Sometimes called easy-outs. You drill a hole in the center of the stud. Tap in the extractor which will have flutes or reverse type of threads and twist it out like you are removing the bolt. Sometimes drilling the hole is the hardest part.
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