Apparently my EGR valve is bad.

Replacing the faulty part is easy, but Ford wants $349 for the part. Autozone wants $149 with a lifetime warranty for a duralast part, but I am skeptical.

conversely

Sinister diesel sells a whole EGR delete kit for the same price. Since I have an early 2004 model (built june 2003) isn't my EGR cooler the most likely thing to break anyway?

So I have some questions:

1) does the delete kit require disassembly of the intake manifold, turbo, etc, to install?
2) are all kits created equal? There's a $50 amazon version.
3) are all EGR valves really OEM, just remanufactured?

 

 

As mentioned, you need the valve anyway. I am pretty sure bought that same sinister diesel kit that the are selling for $329. It was less than $100 when I bought it so I would not get that one. They are not complicated kits. That type of kit is not worth much more than $100.

I will try to look around and find my receipt to be sure.

Richard

 

Actually... It was an xdp kit...https://www.xtremediesel.com/xdp-60l...yABEgKOjPD_BwE

And I used the fte discount code plus it was on sale iirc.

Richard

 

Did you watch the video I posted in another thread? While we are at it, just a bit of advice. You have some good info from others started in the other thread, starting this one will not only make folks miss things but it makes it more work for you to keep tabs on replies, etc.

You have an early build, it's actually the desirable EGR cooler as far as those are concerned. If you want to delete it, then go for it. I don't think I would if it was my truck, not yet anyway. It's the round cooler, they are known to be more robust. In fact I know a couple of early build owners that won't do a delete because they don't really see a need to.
You are still getting to know it. Drive it a few months to learns it's quirks, etc etc. Cleaning the EGR valve is no big deal, and neither is doing a delete.
That said, doing a delete is a lot more work than cleaning the EGR valve. Turbo comes out(at least most folks will to make it easier), intake gets loosened with some other things, etc.
It's nuts and bolts, it's not rocket science, but it's more work and if you are not inclined to crawling over the motor and under it to get at the up pipe....at least not quite yet.........then just clean the valve and let her romp. Those early build EGR coolers don't go bad that often.
Again, your truck and your money...just my two cents worth.

FYI, reman Motorcraft EGR valve can be had for under $200, or Sinister sells new for $125, reman for $110.....if you end up needing the valve.
There are a TON of these trucks running around getting worked day in and day out with the coolers still there.

 

I did watch it. The other thread ended with suggesting I just open a question about the valve, unless I missed something. sorry for the multiple threads.

Well that's information I was missing. Wow! Okay, so I'll leave it be. After reading all the negative stuff about the EGR cooler, I thought it was just a time-bomb waiting to explode and take out my engine with it. Thanks!

So can I assume the Dorman/Duralast/BrandX are all just remanufactured OEM valves?

I am going out to pull it now... I was just afraid that maybe it was stuck for a reason, like hiding a bad EGR cooler.

 

Your cooler is the one that doesn't tend to pop (as mentioned above), so I would leave it all installed how it is. If you need a replacement valve, just buy one that won't break again:
https://www.iprresearch.com/IPR-EGR-...nal-VT365.html

 

That begs the question:

When the valve is broken, how is it different than that plug?

I really like the idea but I am not sure exactly how it works differently than a broken valve.

PS: The original is out. It's sooty, but nothing like the one in the video. Being these are exhaust gases, I am guessing I don't need to lube those o rings, right?

 

I just read up on this a bit.

Okay how come nobody has just snipped the voltage wire to the EGR solenoid, and spliced in a pair of wires run to the cabin and connected to a switch labeled "Pass Emissions Testing ON/OFF"?

Control EGR V+ ------- [splice to switch]-------On/Off------[splice to EGR Valve]------EGR Solenoid V+ connection

If it's as easy as the plug looks.

 

 

It's replaced. I am going to reset the codes and take it for a drive and log data.

 

The valve can be pushed open by high EBP, and doesn't seal against a coolant rupture into the intake. The whole thing is an exercise in navel gazing, there doesn't seem to be a meaningful impact to deleting or not. Some people claim high MPG added numbers from deleting, I think they're just padding to justify the cost; I didn't see any difference with as-installed, unplugged, and deleted. If you hot tan an intake, it will stay cleaner without an EGR valve, but I've cleaned some nasty intakes out and don't see meaningful changes in performance.

 

Don't put anything Dorman in a 6.0....period.
Unless it's an air freshener don't
use
Dorman

They would probably screw up an air freshener as far as that goes.

They have some ok products, but nothing really I or anyone else here would advise anyone to install in a 6.0...oil coolers being at the top of the list.

 

HOUSTON WE HAVE IGNITION. PILOT EXPERIENCING HEAVY Gs ON TAKEOFF!

I can't believe something so simple was sucking up so much power, and causing it to buck when going up a grade. I think the turbo is working now, there's some new sound under the hood when I punch it. The seat of the pants dyno now says, YEAH, this can pull my fully loaded horse trailer up the mountains. No problem.

The Torque Pro amp however now say's there is a 30d temperature difference when I am goosing it. I wonder if I have the PIDs right. I'll take that back to the monitoring thread.

In any case the EGR error code is gone.

 

I run my '03 with a stock EGR valve in place and a second one plugged in but laying on the manifold. It keeps any interactions with the software control in place, but the manifold EGR valve stays dormant. I do it this way as there had been some discussions that if the turbo goes wacked into a high boost mode on hard acceleration, the EGR valve can pop open and relieve some intake pressure into the exhaust to protect the head gaskets. Maybe just a tale, but it's an easy way to deal with it. When I'm going to do an IDS/AE system check, I can just plug in the intake installed valve and I don't get an "Insufficient flow" code.

And it's hard to get an '03 EGR cooler to fail. Probably can be done, but not something I'll worry about. I've run one up through 30-35F Delta and not an issue.