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It's a thread compound. It's not a threadlocker per se but does prevent movement. It appears to be more of a sealant as it fills the gaps between threads to allow for more relaxed machining tolerances. Those connections see vibrations, heat, and high pressure.
Originally Posted by ArmyLifer
Which thread locker?
Loctite 680. (AllaboutMPG beat me to my own post )
Originally Posted by ArmyLifer
How do you drain and fill HPOP from the top?
There's a small port on top on the driver's side of the reservoir (the right side if you are standing in front of the truck and looking at the reservoir). It requires a hex wrech to remove the plug.
I use my handheld Mityvac but you can put any small tubing in the top of the HPOP and suck/siphon the oil out. Just be careful that you don't puncture the filter screen.
Loctite and thread locker are the same thing in my brain apparently. Although, I can understand why anyone is confused.
RiffRaff and Diesel O-Rings has the proper loctite require for the HPOP to fitting connection.
Brian42 got the answer on removing oil from the reservoir. I have a MightyVac hand pump like he does as well. This has been one of my best investments over the years and it has been very useful.
You use thread locker on an o-ring connection? Which thread locker?
How do you drain and fill HPOP from the top?
I suspect that the threadlocker is involved because the fittings only get torqued to 25 ft lbs. I got one of these at Poop Boys but they are widely available. Their advertised use is to measure 2 stroke oil for mixing 2 stroke mixes. The tube fits through the Allen wrench hex plug on top of the reservoir and it's long enough that it bottoms out and you can't lose it in there.
Loctite and thread locker are the same thing in my brain apparently. Although, I can understand why anyone is confused.
Yep, guess my terminology was not the best. I know “Loctite” makes a million different products, but the original was a threadlocker and so that’s what I think of first. Heck, I’ve probably got a dozen different Loctite’s on my shelf in the shop.
I’ve also got a top creeper on order too. I swore next time I needed to do any engine work I would get one. My back just can’t take that abuse anymore.
I’ve also got a top creeper on order too. I swore next time I needed to do any engine work I would get one. My back just can’t take that abuse anymore.
Installed the new check-valve-less HPOP fittings in the HPOP today. The Loctite 680 has a 24 hour cure time so we’ll see tomorrow if I stopped the leak. I didn’t do the head HPOP fittings due to access and lack of signs of leaks there. As it was I had to disconnect a CAC tube and intake tube to get access to the HPOP fittings. Next time I dig into the engine I’ll get those fittings installed and un-FRx my Ex.
Should have bought this a year ago. Back is feeling good!
My method of cleaning out the valley: 18” long pliers and shop towels.
That minor little leak at the HPOP fittings wasn’t it. I got it all ready to drive into work today, started it up, no sign of leaks. Got to work and slid a sheet of cardboard under the truck to see if there were any residual drips.
About a minute after parking.
About three minutes.
I brought some oil with me. Hopefully it’s enough to get home. I’ll have to diagnose later as I’m going on vacation tomorrow.
It is topside. Oil has sprayed onto the passenger side CAC boot where the AIH plug is at. Whatever it is I’m not seeing it at idle.
Hard to see where it might be coming from. There is an o-ring on the back side of each head. The one on the passenger side is right next to where the downpipe starts, check that. Check your dipstick to oil pan for the leak. Look in the valley, is there a pool of oil? This much oil should be somewhat easy to find.
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