Ignition Wiring
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 149
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From: Reno, Nv
Ignition Wiring
Hey all, so I have rewired my truck as per the directions of the Kwikwire book, and now my problem is that I do not have a constant hot wire for my coil. I have a wire running from the stud on the back of the ignition switch running to the "S" switch on the solenoid. I have another wire running from the "I" on the solenoid to the ballast resistor. The other wire on the ballast resistor comes from the fuse box. So this is where I get confused and I think I've seen it somewhere before just can't remember. In the "Run" position the "S" terminal has power but as soon as I move to the "Start" position "S" terminal gets looses power and "I" terminal gets power. While in the "I" position my wire running from the fuse panel to the ballast resistor gets power but looses power when the key returns to "Run". I am confused as to where my constant power comes from.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,389
Likes: 58
Since it was a rewire, go back and double check every wire and connection related to ignition.
The S terminal should be powered only in the start position.
The wire from the I terminal bypasses the resistor, so it should be between the resistor and coil. At the coil or on the coil end of the resistor would be suitable.
The S terminal should be powered only in the start position.
The wire from the I terminal bypasses the resistor, so it should be between the resistor and coil. At the coil or on the coil end of the resistor would be suitable.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
Your truck had the following originally:
C0LF-12250-A .. Resistor Wire-Ignition Coil (Motorcraft DY-37) / Obsolete - Available NOS & from auto parts stores.
61.50" long / color coded pink / 1.30-1.40 ohms resistance / #20 gauge wire.
1960/72 ALL FoMoCo vehicles.
C0LF-12250-A .. Resistor Wire-Ignition Coil (Motorcraft DY-37) / Obsolete - Available NOS & from auto parts stores.
61.50" long / color coded pink / 1.30-1.40 ohms resistance / #20 gauge wire.
1960/72 ALL FoMoCo vehicles.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,389
Likes: 58
If S is powered only in the run position and not start, then you have something wired incorrectly or one or more of the components does not match the terminal layout indicated on the diagrams. Go back and check it all.
In the diagrams, each starter solenoid is different. Make sure you are actually wired at the appropriate terminal for the solenoid you are actually using, which may not be as shown in the diagram.
In the diagrams, each starter solenoid is different. Make sure you are actually wired at the appropriate terminal for the solenoid you are actually using, which may not be as shown in the diagram.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,474
Likes: 974
From: Tri Cities, TN
Your diagram says (Ballast resistor bypass Not Provided) did you splice into it like it is shown in the diagram? The "I" terminal is only hot when the engine is cranking. And I can't figure out why they would run the ignition thru the fuse panel. But looking at that diagram it looks as if English may have been a second language for the person who drew it.
Here is what I would do. First in order for that Ford starter relay to work you have to have a hot battery connected to it. Disconnect the starter from the relay so the engine doesn't spin. Turn the switch to start. The relay should click and the "I" terminal should have 12V on it. Remember your ignition switch is only completing a circuit between your battery and the coil inside that relay. When you release the key the "I" terminal should not have power and the pink wire to the ballast which is either #20 or #31 "depending on which diagram you're looking at", should be hot. Good Luck!
Here is what I would do. First in order for that Ford starter relay to work you have to have a hot battery connected to it. Disconnect the starter from the relay so the engine doesn't spin. Turn the switch to start. The relay should click and the "I" terminal should have 12V on it. Remember your ignition switch is only completing a circuit between your battery and the coil inside that relay. When you release the key the "I" terminal should not have power and the pink wire to the ballast which is either #20 or #31 "depending on which diagram you're looking at", should be hot. Good Luck!
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Junior User
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: Chicagoland
Not going to be any help, but wondering did you go with the Kwikwire harness or not? And if so which one, I can't tell the difference between the budget 14 circuit vs the Ford 14 circuit other than $100.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,954
Likes: 64
according to your diagram it shows the wire you need is the pink, it should travel to the fuse block, then to the ballast resistor. It does not say if it is "FUSED" or not. may run threw a fuse or may just connect at the fuse panel. You need to check with a test light that you have a light at the ignition switch on the "ign" terminal with key on, a light at the fuse panel on the pink wire, a light on the pink wire heading to the resistor, then a light at the coil side of the resistor, and finally a light at the coil. You have lost connection at one of those points.
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