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2004 F350 DRW with 6.0l. When driving at slow speeds I have a pretty bad grinding sound. I thought it was a warped rotor or sticking caliper so I brought it in to the shop. They pulled the wheels off and checked the brakes and said it’s not the brakes. Also said it’s jot a wheel bearing. He said there’s a good chance there’s an issue with the front diff.
The noise is only noticeable at lower speeds, does not change when turning or hitting bumps. Happens in 2wd. I haven’t checked it in 4wd because I ran out of time.
Any ideas? I just got the truck so don’t know much about it. Thanks,
I something simular happen on my 06 F150 and it was a vacuum line going to the front up. The line was leaking and the front hub was making a loud grinding/ rattling noise, I fixed the leak and problem solved. Not sure if this is your problem but thought it may be worth mentioning.
I something simular happen on my 06 F150 and it was a vacuum line going to the front up. The line was leaking and the front hub was making a loud grinding/ rattling noise, I fixed the leak and problem solved. Not sure if this is your problem but thought it may be worth mentioning.
I will definitely check this out. Thank you sir for taking the time to respond. I’m hoping this will be a cheap fix and I can be back to running without issues
It's unlikely to be a carrier or pinion bearing if you're hearing it in 2WD. If the hubs are working properly the front axle isn't even spinning in 2WD unless manually locked, and even then you wouldn't hear much when it's not transmitting power.
My first thought was the needle bearings, but if that were the case it would be silent with the hubs locked. I'd say take another look at the brakes...perhaps some noise from the backing plate contacting the rotor?
Those hubs are well known for not locking or unlocking in auto. On my '03, it would noticeably clunk when turning (in 2WD) if one or both of the hubs were locked.
With the truck in park (and 2WD), reach behind each tire and spin the U-joint. I'd be one of them is still locked. Roll the hub back and forth while wiggling the u-joint until it is free.
For troubleshooting 4wd, I like to put all 4 corners up on jack stands for testing. (danger- not safe, approved, etc. Do at your own risk). Shift in and out of 4, turn wheels, let it idle in first gear. Then get out and listen at the wheels. Turn wheels to full lock and listen again. Might be able to isolate a bad u-joint/hub/bearing. Please don't let the truck roll off the jacks while in 4WD first gear.
The hub bearings are self contained on these trucks... I had one go before where it was a shaving sound at highway speed but quiet at slower speeds. ive also had them go where it was quiet at highway and screeched like a banchee at a crawl. sometimes itll even sound like a bag full of marbles rolling around.. easiest way to confirm the wheel bearing is to pull the caliper off and spin the hub by hand. sometimes ill throw the tire back on with the caliper off just for added leverage.. if you get a noise while spinning the hub its most likely the hub.. theyre really well known for going.. my trucks on its 4th one in the last 50K and most of those are highway miles...
The hub bearings are self contained on these trucks... I had one go before where it was a shaving sound at highway speed but quiet at slower speeds. ive also had them go where it was quiet at highway and screeched like a banchee at a crawl. sometimes itll even sound like a bag full of marbles rolling around.. easiest way to confirm the wheel bearing is to pull the caliper off and spin the hub by hand. sometimes ill throw the tire back on with the caliper off just for added leverage.. if you get a noise while spinning the hub its most likely the hub.. theyre really well known for going.. my trucks on its 4th one in the last 50K and most of those are highway miles...
Agree. Just make sure to differentiate between the hub (locking hub part of the 4x4 system, removable from end of axle) and the unit bearing (wheel bearing). I read your discussion as the unit bearing.
Agree. Just make sure to differentiate between the hub (locking hub part of the 4x4 system, removable from end of axle) and the unit bearing (wheel bearing). I read your discussion as the unit bearing.
i was using what the AP stores call it.. since the hub locks dont have bearings in them i dont usually worry too much about confusing them. sometimes youll go into even the dealership and just ask for the wheel bearing theyll think your referring to the ones on the rear axle since theyre serviceable. More times than not you can just call them hub assembly and get the right part. Ive been thinking more and more lately if the next one fails out of warranty ill just do the free spin kit just so i can get rid of the hub units and go to a regular serviceable wheel bearing setup..
i was using what the AP stores call it.. since the hub locks dont have bearings in them i dont usually worry too much about confusing them. sometimes youll go into even the dealership and just ask for the wheel bearing theyll think your referring to the ones on the rear axle since theyre serviceable. More times than not you can just call them hub assembly and get the right part. Ive been thinking more and more lately if the next one fails out of warranty ill just do the free spin kit just so i can get rid of the hub units and go to a regular serviceable wheel bearing setup..
I went back and forth on the same decision with my '03 F350. Free spin kit or replace unit bearings again. For me, the cost of the free spin kit was WAY more than doing unit bearings every 50k -70k miles (running 37" tires). The first time I did unit bearings was a little daunting, but after that I could do both sides in an afternoon pretty easy. The serviceable spindles still need maintenance every 50k or so, so it's not like you get away from pulling them apart. Pretty easy to pop on new unit bearings.
The auto hubs DO have bearings in them, and are also susceptible to failure if not cared for. If you pull them off and spin the inner sleeve by hand (with the hub unlocked) you can feel the bearings. Get it dry, and you can tell they're in there. A healthy coat of grease in the hubs always helped mine.
I went back and forth on the same decision with my '03 F350. Free spin kit or replace unit bearings again. For me, the cost of the free spin kit was WAY more than doing unit bearings every 50k -70k miles (running 37" tires). The first time I did unit bearings was a little daunting, but after that I could do both sides in an afternoon pretty easy. The serviceable spindles still need maintenance every 50k or so, so it's not like you get away from pulling them apart. Pretty easy to pop on new unit bearings.
The auto hubs DO have bearings in them, and are also susceptible to failure if not cared for. If you pull them off and spin the inner sleeve by hand (with the hub unlocked) you can feel the bearings. Get it dry, and you can tell they're in there. A healthy coat of grease in the hubs always helped mine.
agreed on the servicing even after the conversion. but usually its just a simple clean out of the old grease and redoing them with new grease. i think if they made the hub unit greaseable it probably wouldnt be as prone to failure as it is but never know..
didnt know the auto ones had a bearing in them.. mines just had the manual hubs which didnt. i ended up pitching the factory hubs and went with beefier Yukon Gear ones when the others kept getting hard to turn when i needed them. Havent had that issue since with the YG ones.
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